You do know that at the dealership they actually pull the cab to do this job for this very reason. is pretty much a normal deal on most Fords and Chevy's now.
The funny part is, the manufacturers will not publish this info in the manuals, as this is how the techs are able to beat the book time for the warranty repairs.
pulling the cab is usually an hour deal if done right. but it does require a twin post lift to do easily and properly.
basic rundown for the proceedure to remove cab on current (new) body GM trucks for turbo/head removal, also used for engine replacement. (not 100%, but you'll get the gist)
1. unhook both rad. hoses from radiator, it stays with cab
2. remove left inter cooler to turbo pipe
3. remove right intercooler to manifold pipe
4. large hose off of surge tank all rad hoses stay with engine
5. upper fan shroud and fan come off lower shroud stays with rad. in body
6. all battery cables stay with motor along with all wiring on left side remove UBEC most of the wiring on left side stays with motor
7. master cylinder stays with motor but unhook hydraboost lines from booster
8. trans shift cable off of trans and unhook ebrake cable and conector along frame both cable go with body
9. trans cooler lines from radiator and left cooler line from aux. cooler if it has one
10. fog lamp connectors if equi. and there are two ground wires along both front frame rails
11. remove complete ac compressor it stays with body
12. i think there was 3 small cables to take off of maxi fuse block by the right battery make sure to mark where they go
13. both heater hose off of engine and they stay with body
14. steering shaft
15. braided ground off of firewall
16.the air box and bracket has to come off
17. there are six total body bolts the fromt two are nuts and you have to hold them with a wrench
18. I think there was a connector on glow plug module to unplug
I think this was about all but I probably have forgotten something, maybe somebody can chime in if they think of something. It took some creative thinking on how to rack just the body, we had a rotary above ground and we used some wood blocks. the ebrake connection was kindof a pain to undo but not impossible.
You do know that at the dealership they actually pull the cab to do this job for this very reason. is pretty much a normal deal on most Fords and Chevy's now.
The funny part is, the manufacturers will not publish this info in the manuals, as this is how the techs are able to beat the book time for the warranty repairs.
pulling the cab is usually an hour deal if done right. but it does require a twin post lift to do easily and properly.
When engineers go to school to become and engineer they cack open their noggin and pour out the brains and put in . Well known fact...
You should not have to take the body off the vehicle to work on it... Period. the dumb f$%# that came up with that idea ought to have his asshole removed with a spoon!
Not meaning to hijack your thread jeff, but Ford never bought Cummins. They bought a percentage of Cummins in the early 90s, and they no longer own any part of it.
to the engineers that decided to place it in the rear of the engine!
for brains
