foreign objects in my axle

OBX Fisherman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Winston-Salem
I have a terrible oil leak on the front axle of this 85 yoto truck. I ordered a knuckle rebuild kit for it and finally started on it this week. Yesterday I got the knuckle off and in the greese around the birfiled I found these rollers from a bearing!
foregin_objects.jpg


As you can see a couple of those got wedged between the housing and the birfiled. Here's a pic of the housing where you can see the marks.
housing.jpg


Here's a pic of the birfield with marks from those rollers. I guess the flat spot on the birfiled allowed the roller to get piched in there.
birfield.jpg


The bearings in the top and bottom of the knuckle for turning were not missing rollers. My guess is at some point one of them disintegrated and the previous owner never tore down the knuckle to replace everything and clean it out. I even found that the steering arm is missing one of the 4 tapered washers/ nuts that hold it on!!
When I took the hub off I found the washer between the spindel nuts and the outer bering looks like this:
washer.jpg

It looks like to me that the bearing might have spun at some point and scored the washer.
Now for a question, do you use a special grease for the birfiled thats different from the axle bearing grease?
Thanks
Gary
 
I found some random metal when I pulled my rear 3rd to weld it. 4 broken teeth were in there from my ring gear and some AL shavings from the oil retainers.... I said screw it and welded the diff and put it back in. Works like a charm.
 
a testament to how durable toyota stuff really is! Broke and still rollin'

I've always used wheel bearing grease, and one of the small normal tubs isn't enough sometimes. Get alot, and after it's all assembled, you can add more through the top if you think you need

Since you're replacing the knuckle bearings and seals, i hope you went and got new wheel bearings also. and replacing the o ring on the hub lockout is a good idea while it's all apart.
 
4 lbs of grease, and you'll use all of it. Use the Red or Blue high pressure grease, the normal brown bearing grease melts at higher temps and can leak out more readily ( works fine just seems to be more of a mess later on)

The wear on the hub bearing retaining washer is normal, its from the bearing cage spinning against it while the bearing was worn/out of ajustment (don't take much)

because of the way the birf has been shoved around I would think about replacing the brass bushing in the spindle, this could have been deformed past normalwear and is what helps hold the inner shaft in position true to the inner axle seal ( that you should also be replacing ).
 
I have to rebuild my frount axle....it's leakin like a mofo around the knuckles
 
Good info, thanks. I was hoping to reuse the wheel bearings but after cleaning them up and inspecting them the outer one shows signs of pitting on the rollers so I'll replace those.

What really has me worry is the surface where the large inner seal presses into. The last person who put the seal in used BFH and peened the edge of the surface over in a few spots. I'm not sure a new seal will go in, looks like the hub would have to be put on a lathe and trued up. In thats the case I might as well find a new hub!

Does anyone know if an IFS hub will work? If so then I can upgrade to a vented rotor and caliper combination.

Gary


Blkvoodoo said:
4 lbs of grease, and you'll use all of it. Use the Red or Blue high pressure grease, the normal brown bearing grease melts at higher temps and can leak out more readily ( works fine just seems to be more of a mess later on)

The wear on the hub bearing retaining washer is normal, its from the bearing cage spinning against it while the bearing was worn/out of ajustment (don't take much)

because of the way the birf has been shoved around I would think about replacing the brass bushing in the spindle, this could have been deformed past normalwear and is what helps hold the inner shaft in position true to the inner axle seal ( that you should also be replacing ).
 
OBX Fisherman said:
Good info, thanks. I was hoping to reuse the wheel bearings but after cleaning them up and inspecting them the outer one shows signs of pitting on the rollers so I'll replace those.

What really has me worry is the surface where the large inner seal presses into. The last person who put the seal in used BFH and peened the edge of the surface over in a few spots. I'm not sure a new seal will go in, looks like the hub would have to be put on a lathe and trued up. In thats the case I might as well find a new hub!

Does anyone know if an IFS hub will work? If so then I can upgrade to a vented rotor and caliper combination.

Gary

The locking hubs are different for IFS than solid axle. 26 verses 30 splines, I think.
 
OBX Fisherman said:
Does anyone know if an IFS hub will work? If so then I can upgrade to a vented rotor and caliper combination.

Gary
Yes the IFS can be used, but it'll widen your track width almost 3"

really it's just the new hub, and a spacer along with a vented rotor and upgraded brake calipers.

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm <--- about 2/3 down the page
 
3" track width would be nice! I'll see what I can find on this board or at the local auto-recyclers.

Chris_M said:
Yes the IFS can be used, but it'll widen your track width almost 3"
really it's just the new hub, and a spacer along with a vented rotor and upgraded brake calipers.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm <--- about 2/3 down the page

Joel brought the funnah!!!
Joel said:
Some would say all the objects in your axle are foreign Gary.
 
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