Front leafs too stiff??

skyhighZJ

skyhighZJ

Gov retirement < needs to live
Joined
May 31, 2012
Location
Aberdeen, NC.
1981 Toyota PU.
RUF swap w/boomerang shackles. I flipped the springs to get a bit of front end stretch. Now that I have the cab and motor in they are still tall and they seem super stiff. Honestly I don’t know if they are stock springs or not. Should I look at removing a leaf from the pack?
Pictures:
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Looks like an add a leaf in the pack. Right under the main leaf with the sharp ends on it.

I would pull that to start with.
 
X2 on that add a leaf.

If that’s not enough I’d pull the shortest leaf out. Possibly cut it down to same length as spring perch itself.

Long thin multiple leafs flex and ride well.


I used 80’s Chevy K30 leaf packs to pull apart and make my front leafs. They are a super tall pack, with a bunch of thin leafs.

I pulled out the longer thin ones to add to my XJ main leaf.

Got a decent ride, flexy, and correct height.

I literally flip the leafs over and “stand” on each one a little to check out soft/stiff the individual ones are.

Crude but it worked.
 
Very first thing I would do is put a 1/8" nylon however wide your springs in between each leaf. They will smooth right out .
 
Jeff B said:
Very first thing I would do is put a 1/8" nylon however wide your springs in between each leaf. They will smooth right out .
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They have “slide pads” on the leafs and I have stiff on the front and jumped up and down. It moves but comes right back. My 200 lbs self makes it move but not more than a 1/2” of bounce. I’d like to think an off-road truck without shocks should be a bit more “squishy”??
 
skyhighZJ said:
They have “slide pads” on the leafs and I have stiff on the front and jumped up and down. It moves but comes right back. My 200 lbs self makes it move but not more than a 1/2” of bounce. I’d like to think an off-road truck without shocks should be a bit more “squishy”??
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That's what the nylon does. Removes the friction of the leaves rubbing each other. Worked great on my old willys
 
I wouldn’t change anything until you get the trans and t-case back in it and any other sprung weight (winch, bumper) and anything else you may be adding. Then take it for a ride.
You’re relying on 200lb of momentary downforce to make judgment. Get it all in there and go for a ride see how it does. You may be surprised.
 
Blkvoodoo said:
I wouldn’t change anything until you get the trans and t-case back in it and any other sprung weight (winch, bumper) and anything else you may be adding. Then take it for a ride.
You’re relying on 200lb of momentary downforce to make judgment. Get it all in there and go for a ride see how it does. You may be surprised.
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You’re probably right. I’m just getting nervous because I’ve basically slapped these unknown springs together to get where I’m at. I should know that there may be some adjustment or playing around to get it “right”.
 
skyhighZJ said:
You’re probably right. I’m just getting nervous because I’ve basically slapped these unknown springs together to get where I’m at. I should know that there may be some adjustment or playing around to get it “right”.
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I did RUF with AAL on a 4Runner with dual t-cases and it turned out and rode pretty well. But also moved the front perch forward 2” and down 2” bigger truck, but no added front weight. We were concerned about the ride as well.
 
skyhighZJ said:
View attachment 331903 I shaded red the one I’m thinking of getting rid of and was confirming against your earlier comment?
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Ah. Negative. The one above it. Unless the pic isn't what I'm thinking. The one above the painted one is shorter. Right? Also notice the gap along the length(between leafs) and thickness difference(material). This indicates after market or bastard pack to me. It seems the arch or rate is enough it causes the gap until flattened by load. Not always bad but I always avoid a short leaf in mid pack. This senerio can cause damage to the next leaf....think in terms of a shear plane. The other tell is the squared off appearance of the end and no tapering of thickness.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Ah. Negative. The one above it. Unless the pic isn't what I'm thinking. The one above the painted one is shorter. Right? Also notice the gap along the length(between leafs) and thickness difference(material). This indicates after market or bastard pack to me. It seems the arch or rate is enough it causes the gap until flattened by load. Not always bad but I always avoid a short leaf in mid pack. This senerio can cause damage to the next leaf....think in terms of a shear plane. The other tell is the squared off appearance of the end and no tapering of thickness.
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The one above scallops in and is a “military wrap”. I’m thinking the one I shaded is an AAL. I’m gonna wait like @Blkvoodoo said till it’s all loaded up with trans/2 cases and front bumper and see where I’m at but like you said it has gaps so it will be the first to go if it doesn’t “figure itself out”.
 
I would definitely remove the one you colored red. Looks like it and the one under it were added.
 
From my experience running mini-truck REAR leafs up front on my (much heavier? V8/TH-400/bumper/winch) Commando...

First set were Downey... removed the very bottom leaf = LOVED THEM! rode like butter (better than several coil sprung rigs I've been in), BUT were toast (pass. side drooped 3" & both kinked like Suzuki "S") after 5-6 rides.
2nd set were OE(?)... removed the very bottom leaf = rode much stiffer, BUT were toast (both sides drooped 3" & both kinked like Suzuki "S") after 2-3 rides.
3rd set were aftermarket/unknown... removed the very bottom leaf = ride was meh, BUT were toast (pass. side drooped 3") after 2-3 rides.
4th set were Alcans... lasted 1 ride and are totally flat/shackles folded forward

After 20 years, I'm sick of dealing with front leafs
 
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