Front locker/posi/ARB???

jeepeater2003

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
raleigh
Alright I am having a dilema and i need some help with what i should do. I have a YJ Wrangler w/ 14 bold and Dana 44. In the past i have had stock axles with hard lockers in my front and rear. It was difficult to get it turned in 4 wheel drive but it was bearable. I am getting ready to build my new axle which right now are welded front and rear and the thing will not turn to save my life. I am definately going with a Detroit rear and my thoughts on the front is to go with a Tru Trac, or some kind of limited slip. I have also thought about an ARB, but cost might be an issue. I have also thought about a Detroit up front, but have not had any experience with a locker that hard in the front before. In my stock axles i have the Detroit version of the Lock Right, which would unlock most of the time so it made turning bearable. I need some advise of what to do and if any one has had good/bad experiences with a Detroit hard locker in the front with turning or anything like that. Did the detroit unlock when you werent on the gas or if it pretty much stayed locked at all times? Another concern with a posi is that it might not be aggressive enough and that is definately not what i want. Please someone give me some insight.
 
If you can swing it I say go with a selectable in the front. Leave it unlocked until you need it, engage it until you don't, then unlock again. A simple flip of the switch. Leaves you your turning at ease, and lets you see what you can do in 2wd. makes it more fun at times.
 
ditto the selectable...

dual ARB's and a twin-stick Atlas = many possibilities for traction

however, I've never driven with anything but open/TrueTrac/ARB in the front, so I can't honestly say how driving with a full Detroit is...

Greg
 
I would get lockrights to save cash and then go with hydro assist steering.
 
bigwaylon said:
ditto the selectable...
dual ARB's and a twin-stick Atlas = many possibilities for traction
however, I've never driven with anything but open/TrueTrac/ARB in the front, so I can't honestly say how driving with a full Detroit is...
Greg
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Is this a trail rig or DD/ TR?
ditto the selectable... if you can do the money thing.
Other then that if your on the road and a DD then look at a Eaton clutch POSI, Got it in the K5 and does real nice, There are a lot of set ups for it think 200 to 800 springs and the 800 are for racing it is almost like a locker.
Some people just add another clutch or plate if needed to.
GM 10 bolt was 300-350 when I got mine.
Jon
 
I may be talking like a cheap-o here, but could you not buy a worn out locker from someone and take care of it with a re-build kit? I would think that would be cost efficient, but I dont have any personal experience with it...
 
I appreciate all the help and i just looked into the selectable ARB lock and it is going to be out of my price range with everything i would need to get it working, so now i am still leaning toward the posi up front and it isnt a DD but I do go crusin cus i am a college kid and the girls love it and the welded rear is killin the tires and has only been in there for about 1000 miles or so. I guess who makes a good posi cus i still want something that is pretty aggresive. Also with the whole welded thing is that i have a 4.10 gear on 38's with a stock motor and it doesnt like that to much so i am going to a 5.13 gear. And to do Hydro assist the correct way would cost about the same as just rebuilding the front cus i have to put 5.13s in it anyways.
 
Maybe I missed this, but what does it matter WHAT you put in the front chunk for street driving? IOW, if the hubs are unlocked, all your doing is spinning the chunk & shafts. I'll agree that your mileage will suffer this way, but it shouldn't make a rats@$$. Depending on your TC, you may be able to completely disengage the front axle.

Now, offroad... are you sure your pump & box is up to snuff?
 
csudman said:
Hydro assist and leave it welded. Cheaper and easier than all of the above.
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x2

Just unlock a hub and it will steer like it is open. Hydro assist can be done very cheaply.
 
your signature says it all, u are a broke college kid. leave it welded and spend about 150 bucks at tractor supply for a 8x2 ram, hoses and fittings, get your steering box drilled and tapped and turn it with one finger locked in a big pile of boulders. simple. worry about lockers when u graduate and have a job so you can do it right with a selectable or a detroit.
 
If and only IF you had the money to spare put a spool in the rear which is about $250.00 shipped and an Ox in the front. A lincoln locker is a bad idea cause when it breaks it tends to get UGLY
 
how bout you wait another 2 weeks or so and i will tell you how my limited slip does in the new axle.
 
ARB all the way
 
Yes i am a broke college student that works 30hrs a week and goes to class 19hrs a week that pays my way through college, with two vehicles and i can shave money in certain areas and have some saved to build my axles. I just dont know what exactly i am going to do. I am having my rear built right now with a detroit and 5.13s. I just have to decide on my front. When i am going to do something I do it all the way, not any half $$$ stuff. I also dont have the money to spend on an ARB and to have it working with all the extras. I also dont want to spend a whole lot of money on a dana 44. Furture will bring a Dana 60, but to find an affordable one that i can build right now is near impossible.
 
you can do that 44 "right" all day long but unless you have chromos and the good wheel joints i see lots of snapage in your future unless you baby it. just ask me what a dana 44 and 39.5's will get you. if you are gonna get a 60 up front then i would def keep it welded. theres nothing wrong with it till you break a shaft then its hard to get the broken piece out. dont polish that turd just get the steering problem fixed so you can turn it off road. when you get a 60 do it right. dont spend money twice on the same crap for different axles
 
welded, schmelded... The fawking thing may turn the tires with hydro, but it'll still plow straight ahead...

On a 44, I wouldn't spend much money. aussie locker/lock-right. on a 60, I'd go with a selectable if that's your thing, personally, I prefer an auto locker, so I'll run a lockright, until Aussie makes one for a 60.
 
welded, schmelded... The fawking thing may turn the tires with hydro, but it'll still plow straight ahead...
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An automatic locker will help with steering while your'e off the gas. Steering should be noticably better that the welded diff you have now (while off the gas), but it will perform like your welded diff while on the throttle. Even while off the gas it may take it a second or so to "unlock" while moving slowly. It's stressful on your driveline to be locked in 4WD all the time.
 
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