galvanized steel roof?

[wrangler00]

anybody ever put one of there house? Im looking into redoing my roof and was looking into the options. I went out and price shingles and came out to about 1500 for shingles and paper. So i wanted to look into other options and i think i would really like a "tin" roof it just seems like it would last alot longer than shingles would and also sound awesome when it rains. Another advantage would be the ease to put up dont seem like it would take anytime at all. Does anyone have any experience with this and maybe give me some advice on which way i should go?

 

[sammi_davis]

I just built a shed with a painted tin roof last month . The roof went on in a little over two hours . It cost about a third more for me to put metal vs shingles but I didnt have to buy osb so it sort of balanced out .

The two things that I can tell you is to have a clean pair of shoes for going on the roof and take your time putting on the 1st sheet as it will dictate how the rest of the metal goes down .

 

[6BangBronk]

Done a few. It's said that you can go right over shingles but the shingles will break down over time and fall out in pieces so I always take the shingles off. There's issues if you go right over tar paper due to it sticking to the tin and the tin swelling and shrinking which destroys the paper so I always use farring (sp?) strips. Usually treated 2x4's with notches cut for condensation to flow at the bottom where the wood meets the tar paper. I think galvalume is the high dollar but I have the lowest quality tin on my house and it's going strong. The house is 91 years old and it appears to me to be the original tin for it is shaped different? But that is doubtful, but it's at least 40 or 50 y.o. tin by the shape. It's impossible to gage the age of tin but shingles is easy to tell. I had to replace the valley pieces, I'm constantly pulling the old nails and replacing with screws and it gets a sealer at least every 2-3 years.
The 4' wide painted metel is cheaper than galvanized steel and goes down even quicker. I always buy mine from a place in Danville Va. and it pays to go that far compared to prices around Raleigh.

As said, the first piece pretty much dictates the rest. Measure well before starting. And the metal goes down a certain way. Notice the flange is wider on one side and it always goes on the bottom.

 

[1-tonmudder]

anybody ever put one of there house? Im looking into redoing my roof and was looking into the options. I went out and price shingles and came out to about 1500 for shingles and paper. So i wanted to look into other options and i think i would really like a "tin" roof it just seems like it would last alot longer than shingles would and also sound awesome when it rains. Another advantage would be the ease to put up dont seem like it would take anytime at all. Does anyone have any experience with this and maybe give me some advice on which way i should go?

Me and my BIL just put one on last week.If your puttin on over old shingles most tin comps say you have to put felt down under the tin to act as a buffer against the abrasive shingles.As for the sound if you add it to a shingled roof by the time it goes thru the tin/felt/shingles/sheeting/insulation theirs not much sound left.X2 on takin your time,if your get it off by a 1/8 and dont straighten it out you could be off by an inch of more when you get to the end.Most shingles are 25-30 years but tin will last forever.Be sure to put plenty of screws in it,we put em every 32 inches on a 16 foot sheet.

 

[lockedup5]

Try Lyon Metal here in Hildebran. They have always been very reasonable in price.
Also I don't think I'd use treated lumber for the furring strips as instructed before. Might want to check. I don't know how tin will react w/ the chemical in the treated wood. I do know treated wood will eat out aluminum trim coil.

 

[Fart]

Anyone ever done one on a mobile home? I've got one at a vacation spot that is starting to give me a lot of trouble. I have patched it several times and cool sealed it in the past couple of years, but it seems like it is getting worn out to me. I was thinking it would be nice to do a tin roof with about 6" overhang to completely cover the old roof and the crappy gutter that is built into it.

 

[trailhugger]

I don't think I'd use treated lumber for the furring strips as instructed before. Might want to check. I don't know how tin will react w/ the chemical in the treated wood. I do know treated wood will eat out aluminum trim coil.

Yep, the new treated has copper in it... and copper and galvanized (zinc plated) steel don't play well together at all. Depending on what type of metal roofing you use, you need to consider all metals in the assembly with regard to galvanic corrosion. That means your flashing and fasteners, too. It's all out there and available, you just need to do a little homework and plan ahead.

 

[6BangBronk]

Great, so now I'll be called back to all my treated furring stripped jobs...

Anyways, the furring strips is what helps with the rain noise that most people tend to like. I'd still cut grooves in the bottom so condensation isn't trapped. They are easily replaced so standard (non-treated) 2x4's would probably work just fine.

Also, it's recommended to screw into the flat of the tin, not the V's anymore. That's an old standard. The screws have a seal on them now. I always preset my drill to not squish the seals.

Metal roofs is about the easiest thing I've ever done in construction. Just ask a couple questions to who ever you buy it from and they will tell you everything you need to know. 99% of it is common sense, except for not using treated furring strips.

 

[1-tonmudder]

Also, it's recommended to screw into the flat of the tin, not the V's anymore. That's an old standard. The screws have a seal on them now.

So do you not think that rubber seal around the screw will dry rot from all the heat and allow the roof to leak????