Garage Heat: Electric vs Mini Split

ckruzer

ckruzer

Infidel
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Location
asheville nc
My garage is just shy of 800 sqft. Three block walls, one window, standard rez ceiling height. I want to have heat this winter. Ive been using 40lb propane and a forced air heater. Im fine to continue this, but the main reason I want to upgrade is the ability to turn the heat on (say from my phone on the way home from work) (wood/pellet options wont work for me). I can put the mini split on a smart tstat, or i can i have the electric heat pass through a 220v smart relay.

Anywho. Figured you sExperts would have some good input on what the best option would be.
Efficiency of how quick it will heat up
$$$ Monthly costs
Ease of install

Thanks gents
 
Whats the air conditioning situation? Major advantage of mini split is you'd get A/C too.
Overall efficiency and mosthly cost will better with the mini split.
BUT - how cold does it get in you area ad how hot do oyu wnat it to get? B/c the mini split, bein ga heat pump, won't ever get really hot on the really hold days and will take a long time to warm up the space.

The electric heat (I'm assuming you just mean resistance coils) is definite easier and cheaper to install. And it will get HOT and heat the space faster.

what these two boil down to is probably if you're just goin gto do it on weekends and it will be unheated for 80% of the time, then electric is probably the way to go. But if this will be daily and you want AC then mini split may be better in the long run.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Whats the air conditioning situation? Major advantage of mini split is you'd get A/C too.
Overall efficiency and mosthly cost will better with the mini split.
BUT - how cold does it get in you area ad how hot do oyu wnat it to get? B/c the mini split, bein ga heat pump, won't ever get really hot on the really hold days and will take a long time to warm up the space.

The electric heat (I'm assuming you just mean resistance coils) is definite easier and cheaper to install. And it will get HOT and heat the space faster.

what these two boil down to is probably if you're just goin gto do it on weekends and it will be unheated for 80% of the time, then electric is probably the way to go. But if this will be daily and you want AC then mini split may be better in the long run.
Click to expand...

Two walls are underground and one is shaded and one is garage doors. In the summer it truly never gets uncomfortable warm in there and up here in wnc, a simple fan is always fine for the hottest days i keep the doors open.

That is an excellent point with the heat pump. When its 20f outside, and 45f or colder in the garage, thats when i really want it to get to a reasonable 60-65f.

Yeah it would be for weekends and certainly not every weekend

Logically i think youre right, electric would probably be best
 
ckruzer said:
Two walls are underground and one is shaded and one is garage doors. In the summer it truly never gets uncomfortable warm in there and up here in wnc, a simple fan is always fine for the hottest days i keep the doors open.

That is an excellent point with the heat pump. When its 20f outside, and 45f or colder in the garage, thats when i really want it to get to a reasonable 60-65f.

Yeah it would be for weekends and certainly not every weekend

Logically i think youre right, electric would probably be best
Click to expand...
Sounds like 220v electric is the way to go. I think this thread is done before @jeepinmatt even had a chance for a smartass comment
 
It’s always hot when you burn it down, then you never have to worry about it again.
 
You said block walls, so I’ll assume no insulation. I have a 600sqft garage with 2x4 stud walls and fiberglass insulation and a little $150 radiator looking heater from Lowe’s will keep it warm all winter long on even the coldest of days, and only have a minimal effect on the power bill. I’m sure insulation is a big factor in that and it also helps that there’s a finished living space above. But given the cost and ease of installation, might be worth a shot. And easy to return if it doesn’t work out. Combine it with a fan and they actually heat really well.
 
jeepinmatt said:
You said block walls, so I’ll assume no insulation. I have a 600sqft garage with 2x4 stud walls and fiberglass insulation and a little $150 radiator looking heater from Lowe’s will keep it warm all winter long on even the coldest of days, and only have a minimal effect on the power bill. I’m sure insulation is a big factor in that and it also helps that there’s a finished living space above. But given the cost and ease of installation, might be worth a shot. And easy to return if it doesn’t work out. Combine it with a fan and they actually heat really well.
Click to expand...

two side block walls one underground the other shaded by cantilever 2nd story deck, unfinished block no insulation.
back wall is a finished stud wall separating a finished downstairs den
two door bay wall is shaded all but the first few hours of the am
ceiling sheetrock
finished living space above the garage

ive thought of pulling everything out, insulating the walls with alt least some blue board and 2x2 and epoxy coat the floor. would love to do that, but have too many projects floating

based on how many btu's ive needed in the past with the propane forced air heater, I dont think such a radiator would be able to keep up
 
Last edited:
ckruzer said:
two side block walls one underground the other shaded by cantilever 2nd story deck, unfinished block no insulation.
back wall is a finished stud wall separating a finished downstairs den
two door bay wall is shaded all but the first few hours of the am
finished living space above the garage

ive thought of pulling everything out, insulating the walls with alt least some blue board and 2x2 and epoxy coat the floor. would love to do that, but have too many projects floating

based on how many btu's ive needed in the past with the propane forced air heater, I dont think such a radiator would be able to keep up
Click to expand...
During the summer that subterrain wall is giving you some free cool air, but in winter its sucking your heat out too. I agree that some insulation could help a lot.
However unless this heater is fixed in place on the wall or something retrofitting the insulation will be an equal PITA now and later, so the quick fix is just add heat and see how it goes.
Is there at least good insulation in the ceiling?

it sounds like this is a drive-in basement garage. My house in Lewisville was a ranch on a hill and similar scenario. No ceiling insulation and when I cranked up the heat to be warm in there the room upstairs would get hot. Added a bunch of faced batting and it helped a ton.
 
RatLabGuy said:
During the summer that subterrain wall is giving you some free cool air, but in winter its sucking your heat out too. I agree that some insulation could help a lot.
However unless this heater is fixed in place on the wall or something retrofitting the insulation will be an equal PITA now and later, so the quick fix is just add heat and see how it goes.
Is there at least good insulation in the ceiling?

it sounds like this is a drive-in basement garage. My house in Lewisville was a ranch on a hill and similar scenario. No ceiling insulation and when I cranked up the heat to be warm in there the room upstairs would get hot. Added a bunch of faced batting and it helped a ton.
Click to expand...

Thats a solid recall. Yeah the sub floor between them is zero insulation. In winter I wouldnt worry about that heat rise I think because I try and do wood stove heat only and cycle the hvac fan to move heat around

I think the electric heater I would get would suspend from the ceiling
 
ckruzer said:
Thats a solid recall. Yeah the sub floor between them is zero insulation. In winter I wouldnt worry about that heat rise I think because I try and do wood stove heat only and cycle the hvac fan to move heat around

I think the electric heater I would get would suspend from the ceiling
Click to expand...
My point is there is a ton of heat loss into the house. Maybe thats helpful to the house but it hurts your cold shop problem.
Adding batting in the joist spaces is super easy and pretty darn cheap. I'd at least do that. its a Saturday job for a couple of guys and beer.
Inserting obligatory note that as a shop ceiling, a paper facing is a potential fire hazard. Do what you wish with said information.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Adding batting in the joist spaces is super easy and pretty darn cheap. I'd at least do that. its a Saturday job for a couple of guys and beer.
Inserting obligatory note that as a shop ceiling, a paper facing is a potential fire hazard. Do what you wish with said information.
Click to expand...

dude. hows my ass supposed to fit through this to add batting?
Edit: i presume there is miscommunication. Trusses separate bottom floor with upper floor. Garage ceiling has sheetrock.

1725458002143.png
 
Last edited:
Back
Top