Garage/shop floor coating

Stuntman Autoworks

Stuntman Autoworks

Instigator of things
Joined
May 6, 2010
Location
Sanford NC 27330
My shops floor was poured a long time ago and has a rough finished surface to it. I'm looking for a good self leveling coating that will help to smooth out my floor, I also want it to seal the floor to make spills and such easier to clean but what I really want is for it to be smooth.
I've been doing some research online and now I want to hear from some personal experiences, any brands that have done good for you any to stay away from?
Is there a different product or procedure I need to be looking at instead?

Thanks for the help.
 
You probably know this - but DON'T just get cheap garage floor paint from Home Depot. It dosn't last long, and then you have no option for really sealing it.
(man I wish the PO of my house hadn't painted the garage floor.... grrrrr.
 
whats your budget? I mean, are you looking to install it yourself or hire someone to do it?

Sherwin Williams has a good product but for heavy use and high traffic (vehicle traffic) areas, look at Tnemec 237 with appropriate primers and top coats. Very durable and can go up to 1/4" thick.

Remember, the finish product is only as good as the prep. The Home Depot products are not too bad. Most people have issues with it because the floor was incorrectly prepared, leading to poor end use and quality
 
Done a few, and prep is the key. I use muratic acid and buff the floor with 80 grit paper. Rince and coat
 
I bought the stuff from Lowe's, and it didn't stick for shit. I did the whole acid etching of the concrete deal, but it still didn't stick.
 
transman731 said:
the only ones that seem to work are the 2 part epoxy's. and prep is definitely the key.
Click to expand...
+1.

I used to install this stuff when I worked for my ex-in-laws. STRONG stuff. We put it in machine shops and auto plants (GM and Chrysler). This stuff would take a pounding, but it was like $40 a gallon. a gallon would cover 10-15 square feet depending on how thick it was applied. We rolled it on with a thick wide roller and wore golf shoes to install it. That way if you had to walk across it while it was still wet, you could and it would self-cure all the holes from the golf cleats. If I remember right, we installed it about 1/4" thick. We used an industrial degreaser and flooded the floor first and ran a floor scrubber on it. When the floor was completely dry, we hit it with an acid etch. The degreaser/acid etch combo seemed to be the ticket to get it to bond properly. This was NOT a cheap process, but for an auto plant where they were dropping industrial presses on the floor, but still wanted a floor you could eat off of, this was the ticket.

Fumes would kill a rhino, so make sure you ventilate well.
 
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