Garmin 1450LMT

Your Hot Dog Guy!

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Location
winston-salem,nc
I had to use my GPS yesterday for a location I was vending and it was working great. Until I plugged in the charging cord, The screen goes black. Unplug the cord and a minute later all is well. Think it's the cord? While the screen is black it does charge the battery. WTF?
 
the transformer is going out na dover volting the unit
 
What is "na dover" volting?
 
i cant type....

The transformer is going out and is overvolting. Is what that should read.
Most of those chargrs work at 2-4vdc....it should be taking 12v in and stepping it down to power...when they go out they will let the full 12v through and burn up devices
 
Oh!
 
well now i know what happened to my garmin...
 
Ok I worked with it last night till the battery died. This morning I plugged it in and it works fine. I ran through the menu and set everything back to the default settings. Seems to have worked at least for now. Works fine even plugged in.
 
i cant type....

The transformer is going out and is overvolting. Is what that should read.
Most of those chargrs work at 2-4vdc....it should be taking 12v in and stepping it down to power...when they go out they will let the full 12v through and burn up devices

Actually, there is no transformer in the car plug unless it's some sort of switching DC-DC converter, which it most likely isn't. It's just a handful of components and a voltage regulating transistor. And the output should be 5VDC, not 2-4. These are designed to charge via a mini or micro USB cable so they can either be charged by the computer or an adapter. If you look on the adapter, it will list the voltage and current output. This became pretty much industry standard when dash mount GPSes started getting popular several years ago, and now almost all smart phones (ipood excluded,) work off the same or a similar cable.
 
The Garmin uses a mini sb and is 3.2 vdc charge...it will internally regulate a 5vdc signla down to 3.2.
You are right it isnt a transformer it is a resistor circuit, but a shitty one. When I was managing a fellt we went through about 11 of these before we figured it out. The solution is to tos the supplied power cord and get a cell phone one (Early blackberry car chargers worked well for us)
 
Sorry. My Garmin supplied charger was a 5v output. It was handy because it also worked for an old MP3 player of mine. I didn't realize their supplied chargers were so foul. I never had a problem with mine. Since we got smartphones, though, the Garmin just gathers dust. Why would I pay for updates when Google Maps is free? Anyway, you can pick up USB cigarette lighter adapters and USB cables for next to nothing off Amazon. It makes no sense to go back with another $20 Garmin charger if it goes dead.
 
Ok I worked with it last night till the battery died. This morning I plugged it in and it works fine. I ran through the menu and set everything back to the default settings. Seems to have worked at least for now. Works fine even plugged in.
Hello.......
 
Hey Hot Dog Guy. I too have a 1450LMT, and I too have replaced the original power cord with a MotherMoto cell phone unit because of that silly Garmin fail trait. Fortunately for me, mine didn't see an epic fail.

If the power supply in the power cord goes south but not completely out, the common symptom is that the display becomes intermittent or won't light, and the battery charge rate is slowed down or ceases. If it goes a bit too high, the symptoms are somewhat similar or the display goes out altogether. If the voltage goes too high for too long, one of the first things to cook is the temp sensing part of the circuit that protects and regulates the charge rate according to ambient temperature. Either way, there will be subtle changes in the charging cycles as the first symptoms appear, and there may be things it starts to forget to do, like retain your setup choices such as screen brightness, or fail to auto change from day to night screens, and it may not allow you to correct these little annoyances. The test solution for the GPS itself is to power the unit down and let it sit overnight to allow the battery voltage to stabilize, then turn it on and reset your user settings and parameters. If it does OK, then you probably have lucked out. Don't plug the power cord back into it until you have the cord's operation checked out by someone who knows what they're doing or until it is replaced.

Look at at the paperwork that came with the unit and see what the operating temp range is and see if it tells you what the charging temperature range is. Depending on battery chemistry and design, most batteries will not take a full (rapid) rate charge below about 55 degrees or above 85 degrees, and won't charge at all below about 25 degrees or above 95-100 degrees. So think about what temps the electronics in your vehicle see when closed up on a hot summer day or in middle of a February night.

Battery charge rates are dependent on battery voltage vs battery temperature, so if your device is between the safe temp limits, the battery will charge. If the ambient temps are below or above the full rate charge limits, the battery will be charged at a lower or even a trickle or maintenance rate. If the temp is above or below the battery's safe charge parameters, the charging circuit just won't charge the battery at all until the temps come back into the operating limits. Inside the GPS is a temperature sensing circuit with a thermistor or other device that senses ambient temperature. If you know how to get to the service sub menus in the setup pages, you can read what ambient temp the unit is seeing, btw. Anyway, the part of the processor that makes the charging decisions looks at the temp sensor's output and the battery voltage and determines whether or not to charge and at what rate.

The point of all this is that after seeing over or undervoltage for a while or repeatedly, your GPS may continue to work but it may not be consistent in its charging activities or won't charge at all, and the battery will definitely be damaged by overvoltage charging. Let it go too long and epic fail is the result. Since the majority of the electronics today are built with surface mount component technology, the only real option for those not equipped with the proper bench repair equipment and knowledge is returning them to the manufacturer for service or warranty. Either way, they don't really repair them, they just replace the guts.

Just thought y'all might wanna know this info because I experienced all the symptoms I mentioned before looking for the problem.
 
Thanks, where did you get the charger? Mine is working, it had changed the brightness to O.
 
I was just looking to see if I had another one from those old phones. I found the wall wart charger cable but not a cig plug type. The problem is that the Motorola phone cable is not a right angle connector at the GPS end, if that matters. For me it's no problem. If you can find a cigarette lighter plug with a USB port instead of a cable and that puts out 5V at 500 mA or better, I have plenty of cables with a USB on one end and the proper mini USB connector for the GPS on the other. The USB lighter plugs can be had at most any big box store in the electronics dept or a phone store, even Radio Shack. Since I need one, too, I'll go looking at the Radio Shack near my house or Wally World if the Rat Crap store doesn't have it.
 
Thanks guys!
 
Two things about me going to Radio Shack. Said item is available at a Rat Crap store 1100 yards from my house, and I now have the same brand name items in my hands instead of waiting for ground delivery. Amazon is not cheaper than Rat Crap on small purchases after shipping and handling, but it's true that at least at Amazon you don't have to deal with single digit IQs trying to hawk cell phones and a three dollar "warranty" on a 5 dollar item.
 
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