Gas Cooktop in place of Electric

orange150

orange150

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Fairfax City, VA
Is using a simple step down converter ok to use in this application or should I go ahead and plan to replace the 220v breaker? I'm thinking the step down converter would be nice long term since we (or future owners) could easily reinstall an electric range.
 
I don't know electrical code, but could you not just put two outlets there?
 
jeepinmatt said:
I don't know electrical code, but could you not just put two outlets there?
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Or one receptacle, wire nut over the disconnected hot in the box and put in a single throw? It'll be the heaviest wired 20 amp in the house. Label appropriately in the box for future sparkys?

Edit: I could have worded all of that clearer but meh.
 
tsconver said:
Disconnect one of the legs from the 220 breaker and then switch the electrical outlet to a 110 outlet. Tie the disconnected leg in the outlet box to ground so that if anyone ever hooks it up it trips the breaker immediately.
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If you're gonna go into the box anyway, why not just move the wire from the 220 to a 110. Then change the receptical.
Now you have a conventional 110 circuit that is oveerguaged on wire, but who cares.

EDIT - just realized the OP seems to be looking for a solution that dosn't involve going itno the panel.
 
Is there an outlet or is the stove top wired into the junction box directly. Do you need 110 for the new gas top to light the burners? If it is direct wired then kill the breaker and remove the old top and tie all three legs of the 220 together. If you need 110 for the new top then you are going to have to convert it to 110 or pull a new line.
 
@orange150 are you talking about just usin gsomething like this
Amazon product ASIN B07GML6P16
I think the problem you wil lrun into is the current used for a range.
The little wall units like that are small. Units that can source 110 amps etc are going to be large and expensive. Any convenience and saving's you;'d gain will be lost in comparison to just buying a $30 breaker and rewiring it.

EDIT - on closer inspection that wall thing says up to 2k watts. I find that hard to believe, but if so then it may have the overhead you need.
No idea on code, but I'm sure you can't bury it (would ned to be in a receptable.
 
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RatLabGuy said:
EDIT - just realized the OP seems to be looking for a solution that dosn't involve going itno the panel.
Click to expand...
I don't necessarily mind going in the panel, I just don't want to if I don't have to.
RatLabGuy said:
@orange150 are you talking about just usin gsomething like this
Amazon product ASIN B07GML6P16
I think the problem you wil lrun into is the current used for a range.
The little wall units like that are small. Units that can source 110 amps etc are going to be large and expensive. Any convenience and saving's you;'d gain will be lost in comparison to just buying a $30 breaker and rewiring it.

EDIT - on closer inspection that wall thing says up to 2k watts. I find that hard to believe, but if so then it may have the overhead you need.
No idea on code, but I'm sure you can't bury it (would ned to be in a receptable.
Click to expand...
I was looking at this one

Amazon product ASIN B000MWAKVU
but yes, that was the first thing google brought up when I searched "220v to 110v" :D
 
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mcconnell said:
Did this a few month ago. Electrician tied into the microwave circuit above the range. Left the 220V untouched.

4ft of wire down the same stud bay. So simple I regretted paying someone to do it.
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I'll look into that, as that would be super easy. The house has this funky jenn air oven/microwave combo that's enormous so I wouldn't be surprised if it's all wired together through 220v because that's how my luck runs.

Come to think of it though I could probably just tie into the existing 110v outlet that's in that island. The igniters can't use that much power.
 
tsconver said:
Is there an outlet or is the stove top wired into the junction box directly. Do you need 110 for the new gas top to light the burners? If it is direct wired then kill the breaker and remove the old top and tie all three legs of the 220 together. If you need 110 for the new top then you are going to have to convert it to 110 or pull a new line.
Click to expand...
Dang I wouldn't have thought it would be directly wired to the box, that seems odd to me. Yes we need 110 for igniters, I'm sure my wife can get by with a lighter for a while though :laughing:
 
the only problem I see using the heavy gauge 220 is you would need to remove one hot and move it to neutral right? assuming you only got 3 wires going to the range
 
jeepyjman said:
the only problem I see using the heavy gauge 220 is you would need to remove one hot and move it to neutral right? assuming you only got 3 wires going to the range
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It's likely got a separate neutral and ground. Even my early 70s house has 8/3 run for the range.
 
orange150 said:
Dang I wouldn't have thought it would be directly wired to the box, that seems odd to me. Yes we need 110 for igniters, I'm sure my wife can get by with a lighter for a while though :laughing:
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If you look at the installation instructions for most electric cook tops they are wired in directly. Entire ranges have a plug but built in units are wired.
 
Junction box

B88A65B2-E60F-4C19-9F7F-1EF8B7049013.jpeg
 
Serious question. Is this an acceptable solution if you have a plug? This is technically no different than the welders that can run 120 and 240?

10-50P Male 3-Pin Plug To 3-Pin 5-15R Female Home Wall Outlet, 220/250V Electrical Stove/Range To Gas 110/125V Power Convert/Adapter. FX125V846 Amazon product ASIN B07PX9S9FQ
 
NickMaul said:
Serious question. Is this an acceptable solution if you have a plug? This is technically no different than the welders that can run 120 and 240?

10-50P Male 3-Pin Plug To 3-Pin 5-15R Female Home Wall Outlet, 220/250V Electrical Stove/Range To Gas 110/125V Power Convert/Adapter. FX125V846 Amazon product ASIN B07PX9S9FQ
Click to expand...
This seems like the best and simplest solution. đź‘Ť
 
NickMaul said:
Serious question. Is this an acceptable solution if you have a plug? This is technically no different than the welders that can run 120 and 240?

10-50P Male 3-Pin Plug To 3-Pin 5-15R Female Home Wall Outlet, 220/250V Electrical Stove/Range To Gas 110/125V Power Convert/Adapter. FX125V846 Amazon product ASIN B07PX9S9FQ
Click to expand...

Campers use them all the time for site power.
 
tsconver said:
Campers use them all the time for site power.
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I was planning on using this once I get a 240v plug put in my garage to use with my 110v Lincoln MIG. I keep tripping the 15amp 120v outlets. No reason to have an electrician drop a separate 20amp 120c outlet right?
 
willness33 said:
Or one receptacle, wire nut over the disconnected hot in the box and put in a single throw? It'll be the heaviest wired 20 amp in the house. Label appropriately in the box for future sparkys?

Edit: I could have worded all of that clearer but meh.
Click to expand...
This is what they did in our house. It was originally a electric, then the next owners converted it to gas. Then we converted it back to electric and I just had to do some basic wiring in the box/panel because everything was already there.
 
NickMaul said:
Serious question. Is this an acceptable solution if you have a plug? This is technically no different than the welders that can run 120 and 240?

10-50P Male 3-Pin Plug To 3-Pin 5-15R Female Home Wall Outlet, 220/250V Electrical Stove/Range To Gas 110/125V Power Convert/Adapter. FX125V846 Amazon product ASIN B07PX9S9FQ
Click to expand...
This is the easiest and cleanest solution. Bu not cheapest (would be cheaper to buy a new 110v panel breaker and switch the wire to that). So its a question of what your time is worth.
 
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