General information on "CS130" alternators;
The one I used (and what I recommend) is the 105 amp version due to it's physical size being similar to the original alternator. As a result, you can use more commonly available brackets. The typical SI alternator is only good for 63 amps and that is at a higher RPM than what the CS's need. In other words, at idle, the CS is putting out, where as the SI is just spinning.
All of the CS alternators come with serpentine belt pulleys! You will have to swap on a stock V-belt pulley and fan.
The flange for the tensioning bolt is tapped for a metric bolt. The bolt is 8mm and the thread pitch is 1.25 mm. You have to make sure that you get the correct pitch due to 8mm with 1.00mm pitch also being real common. Now you have to get one of those dang metric 13mm wrenches.
Most of the connectors for the "CS" alternators are four wire. Don't worry!! You will only use two of them and the wiring is the same as the "SI" above!
In doing research for the update, I went to Autozone to get part numbers and a "source" car. That's not to say that the same alternator isn't on another car, it just means that I'm not willing to spend the time researching a complete source guide! The part numbers listed are for alternators made by "Duralast".
The breakdown of the numbers may help you out, if in a pinch!
If we break down the code "DLG1345-6-7"; The "5" is the bracket flange attachments. The "6" is the groove count of the pulley. Now this really doesn't matter due to the fact that we are going to have to replace the pulley!!!! The "7" is the phasing of the back cover. You can always remove the three bolts and rotate the rear body if you have to!!!!
On the connector that I got, there were four wires and the body of the connector had identification letters. Here are the id letters and the color wires (don't count on the colors to be the same as what you get).
"S", this was a heavy gauge, red wire.
"F", this was a small gauge, brown wire.
"L", this was a small gauge, brown/red wire.
"P", this was a small gauge, brown/white wire.
The red wire from "S" gets connected back to the output terminal of the alternator just like in the "SI" swap.
The brown/red wire from "L" gets connected to what is shown in the diagram above as the blue wire. It's this wire that comes (indirectly) from the idiot light and it energizes the alternator.
The wires from "F" and "P" are not used!
As an additional note; AC Delco sells a "conversion" wiring loom if you are changing from a "SI" to a "CS" and it is nothing but a few short wires and two connectors. One connector plugs into the existing wiring loom connector that was plugged into the "SI". The other new connector plugs into the "CS". What's real important to note is that there are two different types. One is "non-resistor" and the other has a resistance in it. You want the "non-resistor" one if you are going to keep the idiot light. Use the "resistor" one if you are getting rid of the idiot light. Be sure to read the "notes" section of this page before jumping
