Gonna need some advise on a trailer restore...

rodnocker

rodnocker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Location
Clayton NC
I've always had dinky little trailers. Now I'm stepping up in the world. I found (at work) a "car hauler" that has been sitting a while. Dual axel, 3500lb each, with "i think" electric brakes. The trailer is almost 7' wide (82-83") and 16' long. It has removeable ramps that store in a lockable tray under the tail of the trailer (access from the side).

I already have a call into the original manufacture (P.J. Trailer MFG, Co.) to see what information I can get from the VIN number. This trailer was made 4-30-97 but I doubt if it has over 2,000 miles on it. It has pretty much just sat in the yard. The last time they put new decking on it, they put down regular plywood (not treated) so that will all have to be redone. I plan on stripping all the wood and rewiring it as well. The tires are dry rotted, so they will be replaced as well and it will need some sanding and painting. No cancer, but some surface rust in places.

I've never dealt with trailer breaks before. I know I will have to get a module for the tow vehicle, but what should I look for on the trailer to make sure they are in working condition?

All said and done, there was no way I could turn it down.

Thanks for the help

Who knows... maybe this trailer will be my first build thread :driver:
 
I bought a trailer last year and did a little brake work on it. It seems to me that you can buy entire backing plates that will bolt on and you can go. I have Dexter axles.

Congrats on a trailer. I am really glad to have one and use it regularly.
 
My advice is don't restore a trailer, haha! But beyond that trailers are pretty simple. Make sure all the connections are clean and the wires are not broken or frayed, grease the hubs, keep air in the tires. When you put a new deck on it, take a brush or roller and put used motor oil on it. It soaks in and lasts better than anything else I've tried. And after a few rains, it isn't dirty or slick.
 
jeepinmatt said:
My advice is don't restore a trailer, haha! But beyond that trailers are pretty simple. Make sure all the connections are clean and the wires are not broken or frayed, grease the hubs, keep air in the tires. When you put a new deck on it, take a brush or roller and put used motor oil on it. It soaks in and lasts better than anything else I've tried. And after a few rains, it isn't dirty or slick.
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Going to have to rewire it as the harness is cut in two places that I found, and the lights need to be replaced. As far as oiling the deck, is this for treated lumber, or do you just use normal lumber and oil it?
 
One other thing...

I am going to have to get new tires since the ones on it are dry rotted. Do I need to get specific trailer tires, or can I use car tires on it?

The size that is on it now is 215/75r15.
 
If you can't find truck tires in that size, look for trailer service tires. Do not use a regular p metric sized car tire though it won't hold up.

Sent with two cans and some string.
 
rodnocker said:
Going to have to rewire it as the harness is cut in two places that I found, and the lights need to be replaced. As far as oiling the deck, is this for treated lumber, or do you just use normal lumber and oil it?
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It should work on either one, but I used it on untreated.
 
Tim C said:
If you can't find truck tires in that size, look for trailer service tires. Do not use a regular p metric sized car tire though it won't hold up.

Sent with two cans and some string.
Click to expand...

Or you can get 16" rims & truck tires. But need to be load rated
 
I'm kinda confused about the load rating. I have found load ratings ranging from c-e that have the same weight rating. The only consistent thing that I have found is that psi goes up with the load rating. By simple math (I'm a numbers person), it would seem that if my axles are rated at 3000lbs each, then if the tires are rated at 1750 each, I should be good.

Don't know if it matters or not, but I've posted a pic of the data plate.

For now, I don't have anything to tow this trailer at capacity, so for now I'm just looking for something to get it home. Once I get it home and start working on it, I want to do it right, but I don't want to get more than is needed for it.

I'm not questioning the advise given, I'm just trying to understand what I'm looking for. I appreciate your patience with me. I honestly was just looking for a 5x8/10 utility trailer when I came across this one and couldn't turn it down.

IMG_1502a.jpg
 
A trailer service tire in that size will probably be a c load range. That means its a 6 ply sidewall. E rating is 10 ply. A normal car tire might be rated for 1750 but it will only be a 4 ply sidewall. The more plys in the sidewall the stiffer and thicker it will be so it will be better at handling the weight.

Sent with two cans and some string.
 
For wiring, I used a junction box with a 7 pin lead on the tounge and bought a cheap $15 100ft extension cord and made straight runs to each light and brake. I liked this because it eliminates splices and doesn't cost that much.
 
Ok, got things narrowed down a bit. Here is where I'm at now though.

Bias or radial? My current estimation is the trailer will be used locally (within 50-100 mile radius) and once a month to start. I found 205's in bias for $65.00 and radials for $80.00 (w/o rims). With what I'm estimating to use the trailer, is it really worth it to spend almost 25% more to get radials? I can get 5 bias tires (spare) for nearly the same cost as 4 radials.

Next is the controller. No clue where to start on these. I've seen prices from $25.00 up to $200.00. Again, not going to be driving that far, for that long. I can't think of many downhill braking issues that I would have. I know there is two ends... to cheap to be worth buying, and more expensive that I'll ever use. Just trying to find a happy medium (with tendencies to the lower end if possible). I just want something that works until I can get this investment to start helping me make money, instead of just spending it.

I hope to be bringing this home this week... pics to follow.

Really appreciate all ya'lls help too.
 
In my opinion get an inertia based brake controller. I have a cheap time based on and I hate it. It always feels like the trailer is pushing me on hard stops and dragging on light stops. An inerta type will brake in proportion with your braking rate.

As far as the tires go I've had better luck with radials. The bias tires tread always chop and feather but the radials wear more even. I also notice less trailer sway with radials. As to which to go with if money is an issue I'd get the bias and spend the extra coin on a better brake controller. By the time you need tires again you can reevaluate the situation, but you'll surely need to stop the first time you tow, LOL. You may not have many down hill runs but it only takes grandma pulling out in front of you once and barely hitting 25mph to make you want good brakes.

Sent with two cans and some string.
 
Went ahead and bit the bullet. I replaced the 4 on the trailer with 205/75r15, plus went ahead and bought an extra one with a new rim. 5 radials, 1 rim, labor and tax I was out the door for $490.77.

Now I'm shopping for a brake controller.
 
Tim C said:
In my opinion get an inertia based brake controller. I have a cheap time based on and I hate it. It always feels like the trailer is pushing me on hard stops and dragging on light stops. An inerta type will brake in proportion with your braking rate.

As far as the tires go I've had better luck with radials. The bias tires tread always chop and feather but the radials wear more even. I also notice less trailer sway with radials. As to which to go with if money is an issue I'd get the bias and spend the extra coin on a better brake controller. By the time you need tires again you can reevaluate the situation, but you'll surely need to stop the first time you tow, LOL. You may not have many down hill runs but it only takes grandma pulling out in front of you once and barely hitting 25mph to make you want good brakes.

Sent with two cans and some string.
Click to expand...
I got a good deal on this one from this site which seems to come with all of the major options. Figured it'll be easier to resell a good one later plus peace of mind. They were selling for 150 on some sites.
http://www.southwestwheel.com/store...5&SEName=hayes-g2-brake-boss-brake-controller
 
As promised, I got her home today and took some pictures. Tires have been replaced. Next will be stripping the wood and replacing the bed, then the lights and wiring.

There is no breakaway system, is that a requirement now? Is that something I should look at installing as well?

Here it is... Picked up with title for $450.00. I spent more on the tires than I did on the trailer.

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That's a good deal. I'm sure with some time and little more money you'll have an a-1 trailer. I don't know if the breakaway box is required but for insurance purposes it would be wise in case anything bad ever did happen.
 
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