Good flowing SBC heads on the cheap?

Rich

Rich

Asshole at large
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Central PA
So I finally got my 350 (well, 355), and though it has the good block, the heads are just regular 75cc ones. (I could use about 62cc)

While I've got it on the engine stand, if I can find some heads that flow decently, I'd like to do that mild upgrade. Also curious to see if it's got flat-top pistons like the PO claims.

I know Vortec heads are the new hotness, but they're a little pricy when you add in a new intake, new exhaust manifolds, etc...

Basically looking for "bang-for-the-buck"...

Oh, and small chamber is quite alright... I can run up to 10.5-11:1
 
World Products has some really good "SR Heads" that are cheap. In the $500-600 dollar range ready to bolt on and will match your exhisting intake unlike the vortec that has dedicated intake.
 
Just sell it, and the stinky gas, you should have enough coin for a real fuel injected motor. vortec 5.7,5.3 etc. Course I think you would be fine with a 4.3:flipoff2:

I had a built 406, well thats what the machine shop claimed anyway, and it never held a candle to the newer efi motors.
 
Rich, when I worked at the Machine shop, we had a flow bench. We flowed a set of dart heads, and then a set of Liberty heads. Liberty won by a good margin. And several hundred cheaper.
 
Just find you self a set of 2.02 heads. Of course if you go with some vortec heads then you will have the no leaking valve covers and about 70-HP more and the 4 barrel intake for those heads does not cost that much
 
I've heard good things too about the Vortec heads. Aren't they suppose to have the LT1 port design or something? Might be wrong on that.
 
Fast-Burn heads right from GM I think they are only 400 a whack and ready to bolt on. they are proven better than a set of 2.02 heads.

Ive got a set of bare ones (2.02) that will nedd all the machine work you can have when (if) we do the coilover deal.
 
I found a set of new Vortec "060" heads for $450 a pair on another board..

I need new valve springs regardless, and with a set of new springs & retainers (crane 10309-1, $170), I can run up to .550" of lift. The cam installed is just a hair over .300" lift, so some 1.6 self-aligning arms should help produce excellent power. ($200).
 
The vortec are nice, and the intake is only ~100

The exhaust will bolt up.

Really depends on how cheap you wanna go.

I picked up a set of bone yard vortecs a few months back for $200, add a $100 intake and $75 gaskets :shaking: and its really not a bad deal.

Of course $500 at a good machine shop could stomp a stock vortec set up.

ANd I HATE the shitty center bolt valve covers. VC Gaskets are a pita to install especially if the owner insists on running crappy crome covers.
 
So I guess the question is - $500 on a set of new Vortecs, or $500 on some worked older ones which could be better, could be worse??

SkiHiK5 - You're the first person I've ever heard from that dislikes the centerbolt covers... That was on the up side for the Vortecs on my list..
 
Rich said:
SkiHiK5 - You're the first person I've ever heard from that dislikes the centerbolt covers... That was on the up side for the Vortecs on my list..
Click to expand...

Overall I dont dislike them.

However a few weeks back I had a camaro in the yard that I did some work on for a kid. Had the :bling: :bling: chrome cvalve covers. To get it to seal I had to use the rubber gaskets instead of the cork (thickness...think cheap AA chrome) and they would stay in the pretty chrome tins. I used silicone RTV everything I could think of, the rubbers are designed a little too short so they basically have to be stretched in place. It took 3.5 hours to install a set of valve covers :rolleyes:

Now regular tin and cork isnt as bad, you just dont have the bolts to hold it in place, but the tabs work ok. But to me it just seems counter-intuitive. As you tighten down (or overtighten) on the top center, it naturally raises and flares the mating lip, as opposed to the perimeter bolt style actually pinching the gasket.

HOWEVER, I wasnt joking about the intake gasket. Expect 50-75 bills for a set. You will need the double thickness (I want to say its .100 and the standard are.050) to get the carb adapter manifold to seal right. And par for the course with Chevs throw away the front and back rubber seals and brake out the RTV...
 
Noted on the intake gaskets, but I have never had a problem with the front & back seals ever since I bucked up and started buying the better sets...

DRKelly - I was actually looking around that site this morning... one-stop shopping.. :)
 
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