Granite Counter tops?

Some friends of mine in mooresville used this guy Isaiah (336-486-2816) to paint their island. They were happy with his work.
 
My wife and I painted our cabinets after we got a quote for like $4-5k to have them painted. That would have been skim coated and such to eliminate wood grain, but it was essentially the cost of new cabinets, so we said hell to the naw naw. Got some cabinet paint IIRC and spent a few days prep and painting. Grain is still visible, but honestly we didn't end up caring as much as we thought we would. Threw some small crown trim on the uppers, new handles and pulls, and a subway tile backsplash and we are only in a few hundred bucks for a mini remodel that put off spending the big $$ for a real remodel for a few more years.
 
I poured concrete counters in our last house, in 06 . I used a wet look sealer I think it was poly based stuff. It lasted for many years. In our currant home I installed zinc counters. They turned out pretty good too. The finish is constantly changing as the zinc reacts with anything acidic or basic. I layered 3 sheets 1/2 plywood and broke the .032 thick zinc sheeting over the plywood. I soldered the corners. Zinc is food safe like copper. Some of y'all, with better metal skills and tooling should look into zinc. Ill likely do it again on our next house, but will have the metal broke at a machine shop to make the edges more refined.


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josh m said:
I poured concrete counters in our last house, in 06 . I used a wet look sealer I think it was poly based stuff. It lasted for many years. In our currant home I installed zinc counters. They turned out pretty good too. The finish is constantly changing as the zinc reacts with anything acidic or basic. I layered 3 sheets 1/2 plywood and broke the .032 thick zinc sheeting over the plywood. I soldered the corners. Zinc is food safe like copper. Some of y'all, with better metal skills and tooling should look into zinc. Ill likely do it again on our next house, but will have the metal broke at a machine shop to make the edges more refined.


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You got pictures? That sounds pretty neat.
 
awheelterd said:
You got pictures? That sounds pretty neat.
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Dang it!! I knew that question would follow. Excuse the baby bottles.
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In the second picture, this sheet layed outside in the grass for a few days to flatten out from being rolled up. It picked up some patterning from the blades of grass and I left it alone. I'm sure there are a bunch of "more inspirational" pictures out there in a google search. Can also see where wife and Knox made lemonade last week.
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They make different etching (acid) washes that one can patina it yourself, and if you don't like the look, all it takes is a scotch pad or compound and you can have it back to a mirror finish and start over. Probably not for everyone, but if you like the funky modernish look of concrete ya might like zinc too.
 
Next time I will probably break the counter up about 6" on the backsplash as one piece then start the tile. This would probably work for @DSM Turbos outdoor kitchen. He'd just need to make sure the zinc wrapped under good to protect the wood underneath. It will likely oxidize outside pretty quick so a good auto wax once or twice a year would keep it nice and slick.


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No fries said:
Now how about painting cabinets? I could but I don't have the time, any recommendations?
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I think its safe to say its not really economical to paint or refinish cabinets unless you're doing the labor yourself. I got a quote from Home Depot for 11k to refinish 35 linear feet of cabinets. I nearly laughed them out of the room. As for painting I got quotes for around 1900-3000. I ended painting the boxes myself and ordering new doors from cabinetdoorsdepot.com another popular site is barker door.com I ended up just under 2k with new doors, soft-close hidden hinges, and hardware. Also for paint I've always used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic-which is some sort of latex acrylic. I've done about 3 kitchens. All i can say is fill any (gouges, dents, etc), Sand, and Caulk everything even if you don't think it needs it. Also be prepared to do more coats than you think it should take and more coats than anyone else says even with a primer.
 
josh m said:
Next time I will probably break the counter up about 6" on the backsplash as one piece then start the tile. This would probably work for @DSM Turbos outdoor kitchen. He'd just need to make sure the zinc wrapped under good to protect the wood underneath. It will likely oxidize outside pretty quick so a good auto wax once or twice a year would keep it nice and slick.


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That sounds pretty freaking cool. I'd have to find a place to bend the sheets and all for me.
 
DSM Turbos said:
That sounds pretty freaking cool. I'd have to find a place to bend the sheets and all for me.
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You could probably demo the concrete and build your plywood sub boxes then take them to a metal/welding shop and have them brake them around your plywood. Just have em wrap them under 6" or so. Them test fit and glue em down with a good silicone. Some hvac company's do sheetmetal brake work too.
 
Just an FYI, got the bill yesterday for our granite in the new house....don't know the LF of cabinet, but you can judge from the pic. Island is 8' long, 48" along the ends, bows out to 54" at the midpoint on the seating side. Also included in the price was 1 60" bathroom vanity with two sinks, and 1 36" vanity top with one sink. 4" backsplash on kitchen and both vanities. All that for $3928. Came from World Stone here in Sanford.
 
kaiser715 said:
Just an FYI, got the bill yesterday for our granite in the new house....don't know the LF of cabinet, but you can judge from the pic. Island is 8' long, 48" along the ends, bows out to 54" at the midpoint on the seating side. Also included in the price was 1 60" bathroom vanity with two sinks, and 1 36" vanity top with one sink. 4" backsplash on kitchen and both vanities. All that for $3928. Came from World Stone here in Sanford.
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I haven't priced granite lately but for all of that, that really seams like a very reasonable price.
 
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