gremlins in my ford...

carthief007

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Location
durham,nc
well at operating temp my ford decides to just raise the rpm's up to about 1200 all by itsself...351 FI,almost positive no vacuum leaks(just fixed the only one i know i had).

other issue...will run great on startup...gets to operating temp(185-190),will sometimes just cut off...new plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter air filter and ignition module...tested coil and it pulses great....other times it will run great,i think the gremlins have taken over my ford

NEW INFO...codes...

114 IAT sensor out of range - IAT
116 Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT--not too worried bout this one,manual guages
118 ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
212 Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems ---new ignition module
327 EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
621 Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 1 - Transmissions ---this is a new one that just popped up tonight...
 
Actually the ECT is pretty important. There are two sensors on the engine one for the gauge called the coolant temp SENDER, which isnt so important if you have mechanical gauges, and one for the computer ECT or coolant temp SENSOR to control spark timing and fuel mixtures. If the ECT reads false cold the engine can flood and smoke black, if the ECT reads false hot the engine may not start or can skip/stall and run lean. Im not sure exactly where the sensors are on your motor but the sensor for the gauge will have one wire going to it and the one for the computer will have two wires. I believe both are on the intake and the one closest to the thermostat housing is the ECT but Im not sure.

I'd disconnect the battery for about a minute to clear the codes and run it and recheck them. If all or most come back then you should check all the connections and make sure there is no mud or corrosion in them. Also check the big square connector for the main harness coming from the engine to the left fender near the air filter. If it is corroded it can cause all kinds of codes to pop up.

I'd then work on the ECT and IAT (intake air temp) codes first. IAT will cause the same issues as the ECT. IAT is located usually in one of the intake runners on the lower manifold on the driver side of the engine. It looks similar to the ECT and has two wires also. Then id figure out the spout code if it even comes back. The EGR code and the transmission code shouldnt have anything to do with the problems you described your truck as having. You can unplug the sensor and run the code test and see if you get the opposite code then jump across the two wires in the connector with a paper clip and see if you get the opposite code, such as ECT High or ECT low. That will basically tell you if the wiring and computer are good then you can suspect or replace the sensor.

Also Ive seen the throttle position sensor cause high idle on these fords and not have a code. make sure the tps voltage is less than 1 volt. There are three wires one will be 5 volt ignition hot, one is ground and the other is the one you check with the sensor plugged up and engine off it should read 1 volt or less at idle and 4.5 volt or more at wide open. Dad's bronco was giving him problems for a while trying to idle at 1200 on the trails and I found the TPS was at 1.05 volts. It isnt adjustable from the factory so I took it off and slotted the mounting holes then put it back on and adjusted it down to 0.90 volts and he hasn't had any high idle problems since.

Sorry for the long post and good luck
 
I ran into the same problem with my 92-f350 with 351.One of our work trucks I picked up,it was having the same issue with reving up after warmup.Acted worse during the summer than winter,it was more than agravating.My engine would turn up to atleast 2000 or more rpm's.When the company had it,we had sent it in to get the tranny checked out,a squeek in a ujoint repaired,and the idle issue addressed.Came back with the squeek still there,the high idle still there,and 90wt. gear oil with lucas in a zf5 man.trans. What joy!

ok,I played with several Idle air controllers and that didn't fix it.Then I got to thinking if the engine temp sensor was sending false readings to the pcm,would that cause an increase in rpms.So I changed out the TPS,cleaned up the throttle body,and replaced the coolant temp. sensor and walla it was fixed.No problems since and that has been allmost 2 years ago.I changed out the TPS since I was removing the throttle body anyhow for cleaning and it is on the bottom of the plate in front.So between the 2 sensors,it was fixed.The tps cost less than 50 dollars and the CTS was less than 20.The IAC I had allready replaced earlier and it was around 60 also.

good luck !
 
i really appreciate it guys,im gonna pull the throttle body off today,check it and clean it.my IAC was as clean as a whistle but i cleaned it again.

my coolant sensor has never been replaced,when i put my mechanical guages in i run a T off the thermo housing so the CTS and the mechanical were there.

i betcha that ZF 5 was a joy to shift in the cold with 90 in there lol
 
unfortunately the tranny is damaged and I need to rebuild it.It grinds going into second and third when cold or rushed.She just hit 200,000 hard miles and the engine is still going strong.We hauled 100 gallons of fuel,a thousand pounds of crap and humans,a 4 thousand pound trailer and 6000 pound bobcat skid steer and until I got my 2008 GMC with diesel and allison,it was the strongest pulling truck in our fleet when compared to the 350/manual chevy 3500s.

Try changing out that CTS and see if that straightens it out.Since I did 2 sensors at the same time,I'm not certain as to which one was the culprit.
 
mine is at 193 with a e4od and pulling like a horse...im gonna test the voltage going to the CTS and TPS,ill probably change both.also gonna pull the O2 sensor and make sure the tip is clean...exhaust was full of mud and water.
 
With that many issues with sensors mounted on the motor itself, have you checked to be sure the block ground is still good? That would give you low readings like it has and also check the internal grounds on the ecm.
 
i have slayed the gremlins lol

well i pulled the CTS....its missing something
ai607.photobucket.com_albums_tt153_jackedupford1_CTS.jpg


i pulled the throttle body off and cleaned,pulled the IAC again,clean....checked the plunger...sticking...replaced...no CEL and she runs again:driver:
 
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