H1 rubber RFs are a pain in the A$$

TheGriz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
I have 1 2-piece rubber runflat and 3 1-piece rubber runflats.

The 2-piece slid in nice and easy once I squeezed the $hit out of it.

The 1-piece runflats don't want to squeeze enough.


Also... any opinions on cutting down the rubber mohawk? Since I won't likely be carrying a spare for quite a while, the runflat is a nice option to have.
 
i used 2 3" wide rachet straps to squeeze mine down to fit in......major PITA

iwill be cutting mine down and leaving about 1.5" of "runflat" to make it easier.

I also have to cut mine down width way to fit for use with SX's

I do not offer any advise as to what i have done. But i was planning to build a jig to hold the sawzall vertically, that rotates around a center point, and to hold the runflat centered around the same center point so that i can cut the all down equally.

I was going to use the table saw to cut them down width wise with the fence set up close to the blade to cut them evenly.

Havent done either yet, but will be soon. I will also be re-centering mine and will prolly do a write up on everything, including the jig i build to re-center them.
 
I believe the way they show in that thread is the military method (except they use a special strap)....

The rubber runflats have steel bands in them, so that makes them a lil harder to cut... plus the hot rubber makes a mess...
 
Does anyone have a military manual showing how they do it?

I don't have my digital copy of my 280-10 manual, but yeah, a ratchet strap, and yes there is a 'special' one, but i have never seen it in person.
We've always used a regular issue 5k lb ratchet strap. To get it out, one ratchet strap to collapse the runflat, and another to hold the carcass of the tire to a post, side of a building, anything sturdy, then another strap hooked to a truck and the runflat, lots of skinny pedal, and out comes the runflat. For installation, lube the bead of the new tire with grease, and it will help ALOT with wedging it back in there.
 
I used a 3" ratchet strap. IIRC, the trick was to use a smaller strap and get it tightened a bit, and then put the 3" on it. The ratchet would fill with strap to the point you couldn't ratchet any farther if I didn't do that.

As said, the 2 piece ones are much easier than the 1 piece.

Mac5005, I have the rubber runflats with 10ply Load range E SX's and didn't have to narrow the runflat.
 
the rubber runflats are actually designed for a thicker sidewall than the old 8-bolt bias-ply rims with the magnesium runflat. The whole point of the redisigned rim and runflat was a higher weight capacity, which was achieved with the radial tire, that had thicker sidewalls. As for civilian version of the runflats - i have no idea of their width in comparison to the military version
 
I tried the rubber runflats w/ my 38" sx's and just by using the impact gun on the bolts it seemed like they would work with a couple rounds of tightening.

Then i tried them w/ my 44" boggers and the runflat is definitely about 1/4" too wide for the tire/wheel

So, I called interco, and spoke to a guy there about the 43" SX soon to be released and he told me that the bead thickness on the new tire would be similar to the 38" sx but a bit thicker. He was going to give me a measurement when the first tires come out of the molds this week. I am supposed to call him on monday to find out more info...
He did tell me that the Bogger carcass has alot thicker bead than an SX / TSL carcass.

After speaking with 66cjdean on Pirate ( he makes and sell steel "skeleton" style inserts (runflat, w/o the runflat) and they are less than 3/8" skinnier than the rubber runflat, but could not tell me the actual width, being that this is his "trade secret" on his inserts.

So i'm not cutting anything till I get a 43" SX here in my hands to make sure of the bead thickness.


on the straps... I used one strap till i could no longer tighten, and then put the other strap on and tighted it....this let me reset the first strap pull out the extra, and retighten it. Once i got the runflat in, I had to do the opposite process to get the straps off to keep from destoying my hands when loosening up the straps.

One thing for sure... make sure you have the rachet of the strap as well as the hooks in the center of the runflat, so that they do not get in the way of the runflat going into the tire.

Chris M, isnt there a website available to the public to view the government tech manuals online? My army buddy told me about it but i have since forgot. I will try to find out again.. maybe mti.gov? or something like that (military training info, or field training manual dot gov I can't remember.
 
I call full on major bull :poop: for anyone saying they easily cut the mohawks off a set of rubber runflats. JT and I tried the sawzall (new blade), my small chainsaw, and my large chainsaw. Very very slow going. Not worth the effort, especially if they also end up being too wide and need to be trimmed down. I figure I'll order a plastic set from Stazworks. Mac, I am waiting on those 43" SX's too. Post up when you hear they are available. I still need to weld in the new centers and rock rings on my set of H1's.

DK
 
I call full on major bull :poop: for anyone saying they easily cut the mohawks off a set of rubber runflats. JT and I tried the sawzall (new blade), my small chainsaw, and my large chainsaw. Very very slow going. Not worth the effort, especially if they also end up being too wide and need to be trimmed down. I figure I'll order a plastic set from Stazworks. Mac, I am waiting on those 43" SX's too. Post up when you hear they are available. I still need to weld in the new centers and rock rings on my set of H1's.
DK

Yep.. Rubber RFs can not be demohawked. I will not believe otherwise until I see a vid of it being done.
 
I call full on major bull :poop: for anyone saying they easily cut the mohawks off a set of rubber runflats. JT and I tried the sawzall (new blade), my small chainsaw, and my large chainsaw. Very very slow going. Not worth the effort, especially if they also end up being too wide and need to be trimmed down. I figure I'll order a plastic set from Stazworks. Mac, I am waiting on those 43" SX's too. Post up when you hear they are available. I still need to weld in the new centers and rock rings on my set of H1's.
DK


Thanks for the info DK, as well as Stump. I will shoot you a PM on Monday when I find out more. From what I've been old by the high ups, were looking about 1-2 weeks until full availability if all goes well. So i guess plan on the first of the year until i find out more.
 
try a ggole search for LOGSA to download military manuals. Any manual released for public distribution(including the hmmwv) should be able to be downloaded without a government CAC card or login. Now, as to the number of the ETM version of the hmmwv manual, ??? the hard copy number for a parts manual is 2320-280-24p1 and 2320-280-24p2, for the usuers manual that details how to change out a tire/runflat, you'd want the -10, and not a -24p. for some reason, the publications people decided to make electronic manuals have a different # designation, so now all the book #'s you've memorized in years working in a motorpool are worthless
 
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