Hack tap SYE fab?

Nissanwheeler

Nissanwheeler

Active Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Location
kannapolis NC
Ok so the short story is im broke. Im tryin go one piece for my rear driveshaft, i called calmini today and they no longer make the SYE for the tx10, and NWF's doubler kit is way to exspensive not to metion id have to buy a dana 300 and build that. My question is how hard would it be to make a hack and tap SYE, how would i have to go about it and how exactly does a hack and tap work? And does anyone know of a 28 spline sye? Sorry for the "newbie" questions just trying to save money.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
What rear end are you using? I dont know of anything else that may fit the TX-10. Basically they work by drilling and tapping the output shaft, then bolting a flange or yoke to the end. Either way you'd need a new driveshaft. Why not just have a one pc made, or buy one from a 02-04 Frontier? FWIW, I am using the NWF doubler with a NP231 instead of D300. I also happen to still have my old one pc driveshaft I would may be willing to sell, if interested.
 
Im planning on use the h233b with the 4.90 xterra gears. I got to thinking last night could i not buy a or find a flange for the output, cut the slip part off my original driveshaft, weld the flange to the slip then drill out the output shaft, bolt it on and call it a day? Yes im sure it would be a little more involved than that but would it work?
 
yes basically that would make an output flange. Troubles lie with centering and truing the flange to the shaft. Not impossible but will involve gratuitous amounts of patience (and ingenuity or machinery or both).
 
Nissanwheeler said:
Im planning on use the h233b with the 4.90 xterra gears. I got to thinking last night could i not buy a or find a flange for the output, cut the slip part off my original driveshaft, weld the flange to the slip then drill out the output shaft, bolt it on and call it a day? Yes im sure it would be a little more involved than that but would it work?
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I don't see why that won't work, but why? I've seen many wheel with the factory rear slip yoke without problem. Save your money for more useful mods. If you're mostly trying to get rid of the carrier bearing, see my post above. Believe me, there is a reason Calmini no longer sales that thing.
 
My comments/question is the same as above. What are you trying to gain with it? You can do a one-piece shaft, Kamel is slightly off 2001-2004 V6 4x4 Frontiers Crew Cab short bed or King Cab shafts will work.

I have one for sale off of my '01, but I had mine re-made with 3.5" steel tube and yokes instead of the stock 3.0". Still 1310 joints and bolts up.
 
I want to be able to flex the thing out on the trail without the drive shaft falling out. Now if the one piece with the slip in the transfercase output will give me that then ill be happy. Will it? Also dumb question does the NWF adapt the transmsion to a dana 300 or tx10 to the dana 300? What will be my gearing options as far as 4H, 4L, 4LL?
 
I have not seen anyone have problems flexing the rear with a proper length rear shaft. I'll see if I can dig up an old picture of mine flexed out.

As for the NWF kit, like I said, I used an NP231. The kit uses the TX10 LOW range box, the adapts that to a six bolt t-case. As far as I know, they offer 23 & 31 spline. So any six bolt case with those inputs will work. Atlas, NP205, any others. Mine in particular goes like this:
4-High
2 & 4-Low 2.02 (Nissan range box in low and 231 in 2wd or 4hi)
4-Low 2.72 (231 in 4lo Nissan box normal)
4-Low-low 5.4944 (Both boxes in low)
I'll post a pic of the range box, adapter, and 231.
 
I have seen a lot of guys running a fairly substantial amount of lift with a stock one-piece with no issues. Remember when you "flex out" your suspension with one rear wheel drooped significantly that the other wheel is stuffed into the wheelwell and the differential is near the same height vs. chassis that it would be when everything is straight and at ride height. I had 3.5" of lift on mine from my Alcan springs and Revolver shackles and got more droop due to those shackles than most and never once had a driveline issue.
 
^^ Yep.

Here is what my contraption looks like.

alh5.googleusercontent.com__b9bLkuVZiCo_UFh9Bqrm9dI_AAAAAAAAAuA_dod13Nw8afk_s640_20120908_105321.jpg
 
kamel, in your oppinion is the NWF kit worth the money? And to did you run into any problems installing it? In total how much did you spend on the swap, if dont mind me asking. And thanks for all the help guys
 
Kit, case, new driveshaft, oil and everything, around $1700. IMO, absolutly worth every penny. I love it. But I have a manual so it really makes all the difference. I really think bang for the buck vs just crawler gears is there.
 
Well that will have to be later down the road for, I guess I'm go with a one pics with the slip in the transfer case for now. Thanks for all the help
 
Kamel said:
Kit, case, new driveshaft, oil and everything, around $1700. IMO, absolutly worth every penny. I love it. But I have a manual so it really makes all the difference. I really think bang for the buck vs just crawler gears is there.
Click to expand...

This...well worth it, my only regret is having cable shifters on my d300. But NWF has replaced them for free each time they've popped, and my latest one was a heavy duty cable (different company with a better crimper?). That and I like having 4 shift levers in the floorboard....you tend to get some strange looks!
 
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