Half Doors?

Lurch830

messin' with sasquatch
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Location
Wilton & Albemarle, NC
So I want to build some half doors for my hardbody. I like having my full doors for the rain, but they have no visibility for rocks. I built some tube doors years ago and they have excellent visibility, but anyone driving/riding gets splattered with mud/gravel/dirt. So I'm going to make the best of both worlds out of some junkyard doors.

I'm not sure if I want to be like 'everyone else' and keep the outside latch or not. Am I not seeing a reason to keep it (besides not having to add a latch)? I like the idea of max visibility without having it. Here's what I'm thinking below (cutting along the black line), any tips and/or guidance is appreciated!

half door.jpg


half door2.jpg

^If I get rid of the outside latch, I'll add a flush mounted latch like you see on toolboxes.

gulches8.jpg

^my tube doors that I built for reference
 
Why not just make a bottom rung for the tube doors and add sheet metal skins? a lot less work than the welding, making a latch, etc necessary for cutting the doors.
 
Why not just make a bottom rung for the tube doors and add sheet metal skins? a lot less work than the welding, making a latch, etc necessary for cutting the doors.
Or plexy glass for full view.
 
plexy glass will scratch easily.

If you want to shave it I would do it like option#2 but go straight above the latch all the way across.

Thats how muh heep doors are anyways and I like'm
 
Why not just make a bottom rung for the tube doors and add sheet metal skins? a lot less work than the welding, making a latch, etc necessary for cutting the doors.
I like the idea of keeping the OEM curves, that's the only reason I haven't added sheet metal or expanded metal - I'm not sure it would look good. I'd also like to stretch my fabrication 'legs' a bit.

plexy glass will scratch easily.

If you want to shave it I would do it like option#2 but go straight above the latch all the way across.

Thats how muh heep doors are anyways and I like'm
I thought of this, but the tube doors I have now are close to the perfect armrest height for my 6'6" frame...I suppose raising it 1-2" to clear the latch wouldn't be too bad. I just liked the idea of making it match that body line. Guess I need to test fit the armrest height...time to sit in the driver's seat and make some vroom-vroom noises!
 
When you do it, be sure to leave a 2.5" round hole in the armrest to put your be... I mean soda bottle in.
 
I had a set of half doors for one of my old yotas. They looked cool, but it got old taking them on and off with the weather. They were pretty heavy. I would go with tube doors with some plate across the bottom to keep stuff from rolling out of the floor.
 
When you do it, be sure to leave a 2.5" round hole in the armrest to put your be... I mean soda bottle in.
I've got a section of 4" stainless tube from my tow rig exhaust, was planning on capping one end & welding that in for drinks.

I had a set of half doors for one of my old yotas. They looked cool, but it got old taking them on and off with the weather. They were pretty heavy. I would go with tube doors with some plate across the bottom to keep stuff from rolling out of the floor.
Mine stays in the garage and is always towed (not street legal), so I'm not worried about swapping them out. And if it rains overnight, I can throw my tarp over the cab & wear a poncho while on the trails to stay semi-dry.
 
It doesn't look like much, but when you cut the door in half, there is a LARGE gap from inside panel to outside. I gave up on it after seeing that. It's not that bad, really, I'd just rather roll with no doors.
 
mine work great and the latch was real easy... stock push rod sticks thru the back edge. cut it off,cap it with a plastic lock knob.
2012-07-23 23.41.09.jpg
420462_438294296206172_1841158137_n.jpg
 
Brandon's(1badz2nv) doors are nice, hard to see but he made a little storage box at the front with a lid that is a nice little thing to have. My doors will be very similar.
 
If you weren't 5 hrs away....a buddy right down the road has a parts truck that he'd probably let you get the door off of for next to nothing. He's the same guy I was asking about the SAS stuff for.
 
Yeah use some take off doors to cut up. I have a different angle. Cut the window channel off and box in the top/armrest. Make your cuts down below the bottom hinge and curve up leaving the latches intact. Basically just remove the bottom of the door. Then you have armrest, airflow, visibility, and a working door..
I started some for my Jeepster but never finished them. They look different and grat. Can't find the pics though or I would add them.
 
It doesn't look like much, but when you cut the door in half, there is a LARGE gap from inside panel to outside. I gave up on it after seeing that. It's not that bad, really, I'd just rather roll with no doors.
Gap looks to be ~4". I thought it was going to be smaller myself, but I was hoping it'd be at least 3" so I could you my exhaust section to make a cup/bottle holder.

mine work great and the latch was real easy... stock push rod sticks thru the back edge. cut it off,cap it with a plastic lock knob.
More than likely I'll be doing something similar to this. And I like that front compartment....may have to steal the idea.

Yeah use some take off doors to cut up. I have a different angle. Cut the window channel off and box in the top/armrest. Make your cuts down below the bottom hinge and curve up leaving the latches intact. Basically just remove the bottom of the door. Then you have armrest, airflow, visibility, and a working door..
I started some for my Jeepster but never finished them. They look different and grat. Can't find the pics though or I would add them.
I kinda want the bottom intact to prevent the water/mud/dirt from being thrown in the cab like my tube doors do.
 
If you weren't 5 hrs away....a buddy right down the road has a parts truck that he'd probably let you get the door off of for next to nothing. He's the same guy I was asking about the SAS stuff for.
From the reading I've done, it depends on the year he has if they'll fit. They changed the body lines around 94 I think...so 94-97 hardbody & 94-96 pathfinders have the same body lines.
 
He has a 94, the parts truck is a 95 IIRC.
 
He has a 94, the parts truck is a 95 IIRC.
Tempting....very tempting, but I'd probably have more in fuel to get down there than I would just buying the doors at the junkyard!
 
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