Hand Tighten 1-3/4 turn

andrewlail76

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2006
Location
Hickory, NC
Is it that hard to follow instructions? I have just spent the past 2 hours changing the oil in the Suburban because the previous owner's mechanic undoubtedly installs oil filters with an oil filter wrench instead of by hand.

It took me every bit of 1.5 hours just to get the filter off. I am exhausted now.

I need to put a timing belt on Bertha now...anyone prefer the Gatorback Belt over the standard belt, or should I just save my money and get the regular belt?
 
actually, thats what happens when you don't lube the gasket on the filter and THEN tighten the hell out of it. not uncommon on any GM, and pretty typical for a quick lube or "fast food" service type place.

Timing belt ? how about Serpentine belt aka, Accessory drive belt. any will work, just be sure the tensioner and idler pulley bearings are tight ( no wobble) and DO NOT let the tensioner snap back once you get the old belt off, or are trying to install the new.
 
sorry...I know it is a serpentine belt...I haven;t done anything yet...

Just asking whether to get a reg belt or the gatorback...and how do you know if it has an air pump?

I know it has A/C but not sure on the air pump...
 
look at the white tag on the radiator support ( near hood latch ) you will see a tag that says CATALYST, there will be a row of letters something like ; TWC, O2s, AIR, PVC, EGR

if it infact says AIR you (should) have an air pump, but check to be sure, it will also have a belt routing diagram near the same area, and should list the routing with and with out AIR pump. , Also look for small tubes routed to the exhaust manifolds on both sides of engine, there are AIR tubes. I forget if yours is big block or small block, ( 454 or 350) but either could have AIR on it

All this assumes that the truck has never been wrecked and the radiator support has never been replaced, meaning the stickers could be missing.
 
I've run Gatorbacks on my last couple vehicles...including a supercharged Dodge Ram...very pleased...

not that a normal belt wouldn't have worked just as well...

Greg
 
thanks bigwaylon...
Blkvoodoo, I saw a belt diagram and it has with and with out A/C...
but I will check for the other...it is a K2500 with the 350 in it.
 
Im amazed it took 1.5 hours to remove the oil filter no matter how it was on....a screw driver would have been through it long before then.

I wouldnt waste my money on a fancy belt, it is a belt...

I guess Im dense, why does the air pump matter?
Just pay attention how you take the old belt off, and put the new one the same way?

If you are that concerned get a piece of twine/string etc, route it alaong the belt and theen remove the current belt. Intall new belt and cut string.
 
I had a screwdriver through it...It is positioned at a hard to get to place...

I have a filter wrench, but for fatter filters...

The only reason I asked about the air pump was that I don't want to get the wrong belt...not concerned with getting it back on...serpentine belts are fairly straightforward...if you buy the correct belt.
 
then cut it off and take it with you, or is this the only vehicle?
 
Wait,....what year is this thing?
They stopped using air injection in like 91-92 I think.
Kev, can you confirm?
 
SkyHiK5 said:
Wait,....what year is this thing?
They stopped using air injection in like 91-92 I think.
Kev, can you confirm?
Click to expand...

I don't remember when exactly when it was done away with Fed vehicles, but I think California junk had it a while longer.

And AIR is still in place on some stuff ( or was ) a lot later than '92. some Cameros and T/A's had an eletric motor driven pump up until they went out of production, some Trailblazers also had a really stupid electric AIR pump as well ( poorly placed and quite problematic, behind left front wheel on inside of frame, good place to catch a lot of water)

And it makes a differance as to whether it has AIR or not due to belt length, it's a small amout, but enough to cause issue.
 
that is why I enjoy the cartridge style filters on the M3...start to finish in the driveway it takes about 20 minutes to change the oil

Just run a regular serp belt it will work fine.
 
Blkvoodoo said:
look at the white tag on the radiator support ( near hood latch ) you will see a tag that says CATALYST, there will be a row of letters something like ; TWC, O2s, AIR, PVC, EGR

if it infact says AIR you (should) have an air pump, but check to be sure, it will also have a belt routing diagram near the same area, and should list the routing with and with out AIR pump. , Also look for small tubes routed to the exhaust manifolds on both sides of engine, there are AIR tubes. I forget if yours is big block or small block, ( 454 or 350) but either could have AIR on it

All this assumes that the truck has never been wrecked and the radiator support has never been replaced, meaning the stickers could be missing.
Click to expand...

There actually is a sticker that says Vehicle Evaporative Emission Control Information
then
Evaporative Emission Family
Max fuel tank capacity for the system
Vapor Storage

That's it...

wait...

The sticker is on the Air Cleaner...
Says
CATALYST
EGR/OC/O2S

No Air pump I take it...just need the belt for the 350 that includes the A/C

Thank you for all the help.
 
andrewlail76 said:
Is it that hard to follow instructions? I have just spent the past 2 hours changing the oil in the Suburban because the previous owner's mechanic undoubtedly installs oil filters with an oil filter wrench instead of by hand.
It took me every bit of 1.5 hours just to get the filter off. I am exhausted now.
Click to expand...
For whatever it's worth, I have tried all types of oil filter wrenches over the years. The only one I have used in the last 15 years, is the kind that is A square tube with A hunk of seat belt crimped in one end. The other end is where the 1/2" ratchet fits in. If you wrap it around the end that is farthest from the seal, it will loosen even the tightest filters. Works every time! EDIT; I'd rather spend 2 hours looking for that wrench, than starting an oil change without it!
 
buckshot500 said:
For whatever it's worth, I have tried all types of oil filter wrenches over the years. The only one I have used in the last 15 years, is the kind that is A square tube with A hunk of seat belt crimped in one end. The other end is where the 1/2" ratchet fits in. If you wrap it around the end that is farthest from the seal, it will loosen even the tightest filters. Works every time! EDIT; I'd rather spend 2 hours looking for that wrench, than starting an oil change without it!
Click to expand...
Those wrenches are great, but you don't always have good access to use them. I can't remember where I got mine, but it wasnt hard to find....
NAPA Balkamp Part: BK 7759017
 
those gatorback belts r great. worth the extra. very quiet , seem to last longer and give u more grip on the pulleys if u get any splash of water/mud in ur compartment. I started my first one on power steering when I had issues turning with big tires belt would slip a tiny bit would chirp some.
 
I've always had the best luck from the stealerships serpentine belts on my GM stuff. My 4.3used to eat a Gatorback every month or so, the last belt that went on was a GM belt that's been driven on for a year or so.
 
FWIW, my '92 DOES NOT have an a.i.r. pump, and I've always had good luck with the Dayco brand of belts
 
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