csudman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Statesville
Has my timing chain been done
- Thread starter csudman
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2005
- Location
- Archer Lodge
probably at least once, the 5.75 is the oil capacity when changing oil ( I just drop 6qts and be done with it)
I JUST did my timing belt and water pump yesterday, I've owned my Runner since last year, and was never sure it had been done. mine has 161k on it. I'm glad I did it, as once I had it apart I found the tensioner bearing was loose and running dry, could have been a bad thing considering we are about to take a 2500 mile road trip in it pulling a camper.
Changing the belt, water pump,thermostat, hoses and bearings wasn't too bad of a job, best I can tell you source the best parts you can ( mine were Toyota, about $350 with both bearings, belt, WP, t-stat, upper lower hoses and tensioner, the bearings were the expensive parts )
I wasn't planning on the bearings or tensioner, until they showed to be bad after disassembly, otherwise I would only been into it for $170. I almost bought the AISIN belt kit on Rockauto.com (belt, WP, bearings and gaskets, $265 ) , but the time frame for shipping wasn't there.
and in regard to your pic, you're missing the AC belt
do some investigative exploring, these engines use a specific style of spark plug ( dual electrode NON platinum plug, NGK or Nippon Denso, a regular single electrode plug will work, but they don't run as well. DON'T waste money on a platinum plug !
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=33233
Interesting part is, when these engines were new, one bank had NGK, the other had Nippon Denso, a lot of speculation on why that was......
check the MAF, and throttle body, make sure they are clean, also, pull the rear wheels and drums, check for an axle seal leak, they are good for axle bearings and seals, do it now before it does you.
Also check the rear pinion, they tend to be loose after that many miles, mine had been (poorly) rebuilt before I got it, I ended up buying new gear and bearings, not to mention, I didn't verify what gear was supposed to be in the truck, I replaced the 4.10 that was in there, turns out, it came from factory with 3.90 and the front diff is geared 3.90, glad I found that out in the snow ! .
I JUST did my timing belt and water pump yesterday, I've owned my Runner since last year, and was never sure it had been done. mine has 161k on it. I'm glad I did it, as once I had it apart I found the tensioner bearing was loose and running dry, could have been a bad thing considering we are about to take a 2500 mile road trip in it pulling a camper.
Changing the belt, water pump,thermostat, hoses and bearings wasn't too bad of a job, best I can tell you source the best parts you can ( mine were Toyota, about $350 with both bearings, belt, WP, t-stat, upper lower hoses and tensioner, the bearings were the expensive parts )
I wasn't planning on the bearings or tensioner, until they showed to be bad after disassembly, otherwise I would only been into it for $170. I almost bought the AISIN belt kit on Rockauto.com (belt, WP, bearings and gaskets, $265 ) , but the time frame for shipping wasn't there.
and in regard to your pic, you're missing the AC belt
do some investigative exploring, these engines use a specific style of spark plug ( dual electrode NON platinum plug, NGK or Nippon Denso, a regular single electrode plug will work, but they don't run as well. DON'T waste money on a platinum plug !
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=33233
Interesting part is, when these engines were new, one bank had NGK, the other had Nippon Denso, a lot of speculation on why that was......
check the MAF, and throttle body, make sure they are clean, also, pull the rear wheels and drums, check for an axle seal leak, they are good for axle bearings and seals, do it now before it does you.
Also check the rear pinion, they tend to be loose after that many miles, mine had been (poorly) rebuilt before I got it, I ended up buying new gear and bearings, not to mention, I didn't verify what gear was supposed to be in the truck, I replaced the 4.10 that was in there, turns out, it came from factory with 3.90 and the front diff is geared 3.90, glad I found that out in the snow ! .
rattlecanpaint
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2005
- Location
- Winston Salem
I too am sure it was done, at least once or you wouldn't have made it this far. You are probably about due again. I believe they are scheduled at about 90k intervals. The replacement in mine didn't last the full 90k though before the tensioner bearing gave up. I could hear it knocking but was unsure of what it was. Finally, the day I decided to look at it I drove it 30 miles home after work and when I went to start it to move it into the shade, it wouldn't start. It had jumped time when I cranked it. You will need a press to press the tensioner back in and a little allen wrench to hold it together till it's all put back together. They also make a little tool to remove the cam seals that is much easier than using a pick like I did.
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2005
- Location
- Archer Lodge
'97 had a 60k interval on the original belt, '98 and on was 90k, replacement belts were also 90k, which if done on that schedule would leave it due at 150k.
Knowing it is a NON interference engine, I waited for awhile to do mine, only now doing it because we are taking the Runner on a trip.
Water pumps are not always replaced with the timing belt, unfortunately you can't see the weep holes on the pump with out removing the covers, since you're that far in, I'd plan on doing the whole job.
The tensioner is cheap, and for the miles it was worth replacing it for piece of mind.
Save you soup labels for a rainy day, if it runs fine, do the basic stuff to know what you have, a drive it, worst that happens is the belt breaks or slips and you gotta tow it home. just don't let it overheat.
Knowing it is a NON interference engine, I waited for awhile to do mine, only now doing it because we are taking the Runner on a trip.
Water pumps are not always replaced with the timing belt, unfortunately you can't see the weep holes on the pump with out removing the covers, since you're that far in, I'd plan on doing the whole job.
The tensioner is cheap, and for the miles it was worth replacing it for piece of mind.
Save you soup labels for a rainy day, if it runs fine, do the basic stuff to know what you have, a drive it, worst that happens is the belt breaks or slips and you gotta tow it home. just don't let it overheat.
csudman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Statesville
Cool, thanks for the head up. I've done some engine stuff(not much) and a ton of general wrenching. How difficult is the job?
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2005
- Location
- Archer Lodge
toughest part of the job, pulling the harmonic balancer bolt, 217ft torque no room for an impact ( even with radiator removed ) I used a chain wrench and a breaker bar, some folks wedge the breaker bar on the frame rail and hit the key, I've done this in the past, the breaker bar jumped and smacked the radiator..... but it usually does loosen the bolt, then you have to tighten it again...to 217ftlb.
pulling the tensioner off with out removing the AC compressor and bracket is a trick, long 1/4" extension and a 12mm flex socket.
pay attention to the jiggle valve orientation of the thermostat, it makes a difference
pulling the tensioner off with out removing the AC compressor and bracket is a trick, long 1/4" extension and a 12mm flex socket.
pay attention to the jiggle valve orientation of the thermostat, it makes a difference