Hay Electricians!

jeepinmatt

jeepinmatt

<-$15k
Moderator
Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Location
Stanley, NC
Any of yall know what this is for?

1755035832886.png


1755035808259.png


1755035849999.png
 
Assuming this is an outbuilding or other non dwelling?
 
Looks a little like a flux capacitor
 
Ron said:
Assuming this is an outbuilding or other non dwelling?
Click to expand...
Modular built in the 70s with a garage and outbuilding added on.

Best pic I can find zoomed out
1755105310425.png


Power comes in from above, drops down to the meter, meter feeds in to the breaker panel above the mystery box. There is a ?200?amp panel in the house fed off the left side of the breaker panel pictured. The garage was added on and has a subpanel, which I believe is fed off the bottom of this breaker panel. And then the mystery box. Previous owner had a camper, and there used to be an outlet in the garage for it, so I'm wondering if this is somehow related to either a camper, or an old generator hookup or something. Regardless, I'd like to take it down. I also just noticed it is tagged, and I didn't even think to see what the tag says.
 
Old style abandoned - Duke load control device.
They have abandoned it and bypassed.

Duke used to have an insert that looked like a netter <meter> with no numbers and tied into a phone line and they could shed air conditioning remotely during peak demand times.

It’s serving no purpose now.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ron said:
Old style abandoned - Duke load control device.
They have abandoned it and bypassed.

Duke used to have an insert that looked like a meter with no numbers and tied into a phone line and they could shed air conditioning remotely during peak demand times.

It’s serving no purpose now.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'll hit it with a sledgehammer! :D
 
Last edited:
Ron said:
Old style abandoned - Duke load control device.
They have abandoned it and bypassed.

Duke used to have an insert that looked like a netter with no numbers and tied into a phone line and they could shed air conditioning remotely during peak demand times.

It’s serving no purpose now.
Click to expand...
Co-op had them too. There is one on my grandparents meter as well.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Thanks! I'll hit it with a sledgehammer! :D
Click to expand...
Don’t do that. It’s been disabled to shed but it’s still carrying something. It’s essentially a light switch that’s been locked in the on position.

If you wanna demo it call an electrician, who will talk you through it
 
Ron said:
Don’t do that. It’s been disabled to shed but it’s still carrying something. It’s essentially a light switch that’s been locked in the on position.

If you wanna demo it call an electrician, who will talk you through it
Click to expand...
I'm kidding, mostly. I'll do a little more tracing and figure out what is actually being fed off of it. I think it's just the receptacles in the (rotten) outbuilding.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'm kidding, mostly. I'll do a little more tracing and figure out what is actually being fed off of it. I think it's just the receptacles in the (rotten) outbuilding.
Click to expand...
Pretty much always a water heater or ac, looks like that one is only feeding 120 though. They don't use them anymore here but the ones still installed fail all the time.
 
I have a tt-30p plug in my shop fed by two 30 amp breakers. Can I change the plug For a 6-50R or do I need a dedicated 50 amp circuit breaker?
 
Wire size would be my first concern
 
Ron said:
Wire size would be my first concern
Click to expand...
It’s 10 gage about a 10 ft run. I wouldn’t even question calling an electrician to rewire if it was for an ev or someting 50 amp, but it will be a dedicated circuit for a welder with a max rated input of 30 amp at 220v.

Would an adapter plug made for rvs be a terrible idea? I mean the circuit breaker should offer protection and I wouldn’t be above rating on the wire, also if someone in the future tried to hook up an ev not knowing it’s a derated circuit it wouldn’t burn the house down. It is a 110/220 machine

Luckily the wire is in gray pvc conduit so running a new wire shouldn’t be too bad and I’ve got a local sparky I trust

Just another way the acronym is living up to its name J.E.E.P.
 
Wired up a covered 60-5r receptacle with 6 gage all copper in 3/4 conduit and a 50 amp breaker as close to the box as I could to save on wire cost.

I’m getting 143 volts between hot and ground and 298v between the 2 hots on my multimeter! Is that a problem? I was expecting 120 and 240
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2509.jpeg
    IMG_2509.jpeg
    107.5 KB · Views: 38
Shreddinlettuce said:
Wired up a covered 60-5r receptacle with 6 gage all copper in 3/4 conduit and a 50 amp breaker as close to the box as I could to save on wire cost.

I’m getting 143 volts between hot and ground and 298v between the 2 hots on my multimeter! Is that a problem? I was expecting 120 and 240
Click to expand...
Would be helpful to see how you terminated everything in the panel and the outlet.
 
awheelterd said:
Would be helpful to see how you terminated everything in the panel and the outlet.
Click to expand...
The outlet is wired with a bus bar built into the box so the ground is going to one of the lugs on that bar and a separate wire to the negative on the plug

It’s 142 volts at the bus bar to the ground bus as well, maybe need to call duke?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2510.jpeg
    IMG_2510.jpeg
    166.2 KB · Views: 36
Duke replaced the meter with a wireless unit a few months ago.

It’s 143 at the home receptacles, I think duke is not transforming it down from the street
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2511.jpeg
    IMG_2511.jpeg
    142.7 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
Back
Top