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jeepinmatt

jeepinmatt

<-$15k
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Mar 24, 2005
Location
Stanley, NC
Any of yall know what this is for?

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Assuming this is an outbuilding or other non dwelling?
 
Looks a little like a flux capacitor
 
Ron said:
Assuming this is an outbuilding or other non dwelling?
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Modular built in the 70s with a garage and outbuilding added on.

Best pic I can find zoomed out
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Power comes in from above, drops down to the meter, meter feeds in to the breaker panel above the mystery box. There is a ?200?amp panel in the house fed off the left side of the breaker panel pictured. The garage was added on and has a subpanel, which I believe is fed off the bottom of this breaker panel. And then the mystery box. Previous owner had a camper, and there used to be an outlet in the garage for it, so I'm wondering if this is somehow related to either a camper, or an old generator hookup or something. Regardless, I'd like to take it down. I also just noticed it is tagged, and I didn't even think to see what the tag says.
 
Old style abandoned - Duke load control device.
They have abandoned it and bypassed.

Duke used to have an insert that looked like a netter <meter> with no numbers and tied into a phone line and they could shed air conditioning remotely during peak demand times.

It’s serving no purpose now.
 
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Ron said:
Old style abandoned - Duke load control device.
They have abandoned it and bypassed.

Duke used to have an insert that looked like a meter with no numbers and tied into a phone line and they could shed air conditioning remotely during peak demand times.

It’s serving no purpose now.
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Thanks! I'll hit it with a sledgehammer! :D
 
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Ron said:
Old style abandoned - Duke load control device.
They have abandoned it and bypassed.

Duke used to have an insert that looked like a netter with no numbers and tied into a phone line and they could shed air conditioning remotely during peak demand times.

It’s serving no purpose now.
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Co-op had them too. There is one on my grandparents meter as well.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Thanks! I'll hit it with a sledgehammer! :D
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Don’t do that. It’s been disabled to shed but it’s still carrying something. It’s essentially a light switch that’s been locked in the on position.

If you wanna demo it call an electrician, who will talk you through it
 
Ron said:
Don’t do that. It’s been disabled to shed but it’s still carrying something. It’s essentially a light switch that’s been locked in the on position.

If you wanna demo it call an electrician, who will talk you through it
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I'm kidding, mostly. I'll do a little more tracing and figure out what is actually being fed off of it. I think it's just the receptacles in the (rotten) outbuilding.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'm kidding, mostly. I'll do a little more tracing and figure out what is actually being fed off of it. I think it's just the receptacles in the (rotten) outbuilding.
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Pretty much always a water heater or ac, looks like that one is only feeding 120 though. They don't use them anymore here but the ones still installed fail all the time.
 
I have a tt-30p plug in my shop fed by two 30 amp breakers. Can I change the plug For a 6-50R or do I need a dedicated 50 amp circuit breaker?
 
Wire size would be my first concern
 
Ron said:
Wire size would be my first concern
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It’s 10 gage about a 10 ft run. I wouldn’t even question calling an electrician to rewire if it was for an ev or someting 50 amp, but it will be a dedicated circuit for a welder with a max rated input of 30 amp at 220v.

Would an adapter plug made for rvs be a terrible idea? I mean the circuit breaker should offer protection and I wouldn’t be above rating on the wire, also if someone in the future tried to hook up an ev not knowing it’s a derated circuit it wouldn’t burn the house down. It is a 110/220 machine

Luckily the wire is in gray pvc conduit so running a new wire shouldn’t be too bad and I’ve got a local sparky I trust

Just another way the acronym is living up to its name J.E.E.P.
 
Wired up a covered 60-5r receptacle with 6 gage all copper in 3/4 conduit and a 50 amp breaker as close to the box as I could to save on wire cost.

I’m getting 143 volts between hot and ground and 298v between the 2 hots on my multimeter! Is that a problem? I was expecting 120 and 240
 

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Shreddinlettuce said:
Wired up a covered 60-5r receptacle with 6 gage all copper in 3/4 conduit and a 50 amp breaker as close to the box as I could to save on wire cost.

I’m getting 143 volts between hot and ground and 298v between the 2 hots on my multimeter! Is that a problem? I was expecting 120 and 240
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Would be helpful to see how you terminated everything in the panel and the outlet.
 
awheelterd said:
Would be helpful to see how you terminated everything in the panel and the outlet.
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The outlet is wired with a bus bar built into the box so the ground is going to one of the lugs on that bar and a separate wire to the negative on the plug

It’s 142 volts at the bus bar to the ground bus as well, maybe need to call duke?
 

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Duke replaced the meter with a wireless unit a few months ago.

It’s 143 at the home receptacles, I think duke is not transforming it down from the street
 

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