heeeellllpppp

hillbillie82

New Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Location
mt. gilead
i have tried every thing i can think of wich isnt a whole lot and most everything i have read and it hasnt helped
i have an 88 yj with the 4.2 inline carbureated
it has had some custom stuff done to it from the prev. owner i just bought it bout a month ago.
the problem: when i come to a stop and press the clutch the motor cuts off almost immediately 90% of the time
what i have tried: i went through all the hoses and found 1 with a hole and fixed it. i also figured out the intake manifold had a small leak by spraying starting fluid on it and the engine revved up. so i got a new intake manifold and put it on (dont get me started on that little adventure) and it still had a small leak, all bolts were tightened to torque specs. when the engine gets warmed up it closes the leak though. i also patched some holes in the small tubes that come off of the exhaust and run up to the airbox. i also read about drilling out the little idle pick up tubes in the carb and tried that.
im about at my whits end can anyone help
 
sounds like your trust washers in the motor are worn out. pry on the crank pully with a big flat head or pry bar. if they are what is causing the motor to die when pushing the clutch in the crank will move a lot.
 
i will check that out i forgot to say that as long as i keep babying the gas pedal it will stay runnin it acts like it is just losing gas i have to check the filter to i overlooked that
 
Carb rebuild, then look at teh ignition. If still points, look into a duraspark or HEI upgrade.
 
If you still have the Carter carb on there throw that POS away and put a Motorcraft 2100 on there. You will not believe the difference it will make.
 
the carb is one the prev owner bought it is a remanufactured according to the sticker on it. i checked the timing on it when i got home from work today and got it right and i found a little ball bearing stuck in the vacuum advance hose on the distributor. i got it out and put hose back on but it didnt help. i also noticed that when i put it in reverse and back up then stop as soon as i press the clutch and brake the rpms go up bout 300 but when i go forward and do the same it shuts off does this still point to carb thanks for all the input folks
 
also forgot to mention when i do get the jeep to sit and idle if i repeatedly pump the brake either the rpms will drop very low or the jeep will stall out. booster hose has plenty of vac in it just figured i would add that to the symptoms
 
If it the stock type Carter 2 bbl, they are computer controlled and the stupid idle valve get clogged up and it will die almost every time when you let off the gas. Here was mine with the stock carb and all the excess vacum crap
79097.jpg

Here is all the crap you can remove
79322.jpg

Here it is after the swap
79320.jpg


If it has a different carb, did you check the fuel filter and is there an idle adjustment?
 
Yes do the nutter bypass. It is pretty easy. A lot of Fords and AMC had the 2100 carbs. Just need the adapter to go on the manifold. Your Jeep will run waaay better afterword.
 
Here is a close up of the carb and adapter. I used the same throttle cable and fab'd a bracket.
79321.jpg
 
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