Help a newb?

95ford150

Active Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Location
Rowan
So I traded back again to get my 95 F150.. But it has been straight axled now.. It has 9" Monster coils in the front now and still 4" block in the rear. He said he had a block to level the truck out, but with the new gears and lockers said that the axle wrap is pretty bad. IDK what to do to remedy this. Antiwrap bars? Truck is a mudder/maybe a trail rig once in a while. Also a driver used to haul ATVs and small boat. Do I need to just add springs?
 
add shackels and a add a leaf and make sure you ubolts are tight my toyota had real bad axle wrap and all i needed is to put new ubolts when you put blocks above the rear end and under leafs it weakens the leafs which allows it to roll so add a add a leaf put extended shackels on the leafs so you get a true lift and check to see if you ubolts are tight as hell and make sure they aint stripped
 
traction bars are good to have if you dont want to replace your leafs and if you want to half ass your truck yes they will help but you need to identify the problem first people will tell you to buy these and that and by the time you do that it want be worth it find the problem fix it and if you want traction bars for extra protection tahts wats up but i was a newbie too once and i ended up spending around 3000 dollars listening to people on here tell me its this or its that so be smart find the problem then you want have to worry about it again
 
Rebel4x4Crazy said:
traction bars are good to have if you dont want to replace your leafs and if you want to half ass your truck yes they will help but you need to identify the problem first people will tell you to buy these and that and by the time you do that it want be worth it find the problem fix it and if you want traction bars for extra protection tahts wats up but i was a newbie too once and i ended up spending around 3000 dollars listening to people on here tell me its this or its that so be smart find the problem then you want have to worry about it again
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So your saying traction bars are half ass?o_O
 
why add traction bars when you dont know if thats the problem you need to find the problem and then adjust accordingly dont cover it up with traction bars figure out what will fix it. thus covering up a problem wont fix it. it will just tear up the traction bars in time, thus wasting money.
 
Im not being a dick you have helped me but i dont want the dude to just waste money. Being smart and finding the problem is always the best solution dont just cover up the problem
 
Rebel4x4Crazy said:
traction bars are good to have if you dont want to replace your leafs and if you want to half ass your truck yes they will help but you need to identify the problem first people will tell you to buy these and that and by the time you do that it want be worth it find the problem fix it and if you want traction bars for extra protection tahts wats up but i was a newbie too once and i ended up spending around 3000 dollars listening to people on here tell me its this or its that so be smart find the problem then you want have to worry about it again
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what he need is an anti-wrap bar.


Mister crazy, you make no sense in your statement. Especially where is says you were a newbie. From the advice you give here & how I am understanding it you still are a newbie..
 
The problem is lift blocks. It's basic suspension geometry 101. It increases the distance from the center if rotation (the axle shaft) and thus increases the amount amount of force on the spring and causes it it to wrap. A traction bar or(ready for this) ANTI WRAP bar is the correct answer for axle wrap.

The proper fix is to ditch the lift blocks and bring the vehicle back down. But seeing as its a mud truck and he wants lift, then add a traction bar, I.E. anti wrap bar.
 
No not a newbie. I just believe in doing things the right way they make those parts for people to fucking lazy to get out there and find what the problem is I have nothing against the traction bars or the anti-warp bars but why would anybody want to cover up problems be smart im not the rich person here so i have to do it the smart and right way instead of spending money on something thats meant for extra protection. Yes it would help to use a Anti-Wrap Bar but what if it is a leafspring centering pin that bar you speak so highly about want help. Thats why i have said this whole fucking time before he goes and spends money figure out the problem first. Help the man dont try and make him spend money. Does any of yall think
 
Correct mbalbritton but do you know that is the problem. Everybody told me the same thing I have 2 inch blocks under my leafs and i dont have a anti-wrap bar or traction bars. mine ended being stripped ubolts and broke centering pins. Now let me ask again why cover up the problem find it first and then decide
 
Well, you sound pretty smart. At least you stated it several times. How about this, go tear it down & fix it then report back & let everybody know you were correct in you assumption that an anti-wrap bar was not necessary. Please take pic's
 
Rear blocks will have to come off for their replacement anyways. So everything will get checked out. Guy said with the 5:13s and lockers that you could feel the axle rolling. I was just wondering what the safest way to do it. I know lifted and towing dont really go together. Blocks are simple.. Stouter springs wouldnt be that big of a deal, it never rode good anyway. Can I just find another factory pack and add a few leafs?.. All the help and advice is greatly appreciated. Anybody around ROCO wanna help me out sometime?
 
I never said it aint necessary like I said "why cover up the problem find it first and then decide" im not trying to fight with anyone yall might be right but why not find out the problem first there is such a thing as more problems
 
Rebel4x4Crazy said:
why add traction bars when you dont know if thats the problem you need to find the problem and then adjust accordingly dont cover it up with traction bars figure out what will fix it. thus covering up a problem wont fix it. it will just tear up the traction bars in time, thus wasting money.
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A traction bar/anti wrap bar is not to cover up a problem, it's a solution. Even in good leaf spring setups you will have axle wrap in some manner. The easy fix is to add a anti wrap bar. If set up correctly you will not tear anything up, or at least shouldn't. So as long as the mounts on the axle are solid and the shackle pivot is at the rear of the transfer case it'll be just fine.

Here's a link to a traction bar kit Click here All you need to do is add a little dom tubing which barnes4wd also sells now.
 
Non-newbie......Lift blocks act like a fulcrum, like when you use a longer wrench to turn a bolt, the taller the blocks the more the effect of the twisting of the axle or the leafsprings, but any size block will cause more axle wrap than no block at all and traction bars are very effective for preventing that. You should " be smart " or be more apreciative of the advice you've gotten here if you expect anyone to try to help you in the future, I mean you did find your shitty Ubolts problem AFTER getting advice here did'nt you??
 
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Rebel4x4Crazy said:
add shackels and a add a leaf and make sure you ubolts are tight my toyota had real bad axle wrap and all i needed is to put new ubolts when you put blocks above the rear end and under leafs it weakens the leafs which allows it to roll so add a add a leaf put extended shackels on the leafs so you get a true lift and check to see if you ubolts are tight as hell and make sure they aint stripped
Click to expand...
I was told the shackles were a no no for towing..
 
Just the boat, 16' skiff for now.. And fourwheelers. Maybe a load of wood occasionally. I found a pair of 6" lift springs.. May do some math when I bring the truck home to see what size blocks I would need to level it out. That way it would eliminate some of the block anyways.?
 
Or maybe the shackles would get me by for a while? I have a 88 F250, 76 Heavy Half K10 and pops 95F350 for towin/haulin
 
95ford150 said:
Just the boat, 16' skiff for now.. And fourwheelers. Maybe a load of wood occasionally. I found a pair of 6" lift springs.. May do some math when I bring the truck home to see what size blocks I would need to level it out. That way it would eliminate some of the block anyways.?
Click to expand...

You could just do a shackle flip, good for about 4 inches of lift. Should be ok though for towing.


Sent from my mobile Toyota base using Tapatalk
 
And the anti wrap bars.. Ive got a buddy with a mud truck willing to help me and said he had some material. I also work at a shop with shear, laser, saws, etc etc so I may can come out on the cheap with experimenting. Thanks Chris, and everyone else. Will definitely be pulling the blocks and bolts to make sure everything is ok.
 
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