Help with adjustable arms

BigClay

BigClay

Knower of useless ZJ things
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Location
Winston-Salem
I have adjustable arms on my ZJ, and I need to lengthen the rear lowers. I have loosened the jam nut and for the life of me I can't get the arm to budge at all. I have tried PB Blaster (actually it was Kroil, but the same thing). I have tried mounting one end to the bracket on the jeep and using a pry bar through the eye on the other end, but it still will not budge. What else can I do to try and get it to break free?
 
Try some PBlaster, I thought it was differnet (better) than Kroil.

Dumb question, are you sure its not already maxed out? I guess its probably not moving in either direction.
 
Yeah get the actually PB Blaster and soak it all day every couple hours. Then use a big cheater bar. There has never been anything I couldnt remove this way.
 
It is not maxed out, it won't turn either way and only a couple inches of the threads are showing. I will keep soaking it in Kroil for now (might as well use it up before I buy PB Blaster). I don't have a torch, so heat is not an option right now. I will keep working on it I guess
 
BigClay said:
It is not maxed out, it won't turn either way and only a couple inches of the threads are showing. I will keep soaking it in Kroil for now (might as well use it up before I buy PB Blaster). I don't have a torch, so heat is not an option right now. I will keep working on it I guess
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Seriously, I'd invest $3-4 in a can of PB. I still have a can of Kroil on my shelf, been thru many cans of PB since I last touched the it.
 
I'm betting you have RE control arms. I remember when I did my 8.8 swap the person helping me said the male and female parts of the control arm are made of different types/grades, or something to that effect, of steel which can cause them to seize together over time. Maybe he was full of :poop:, maybe not I don't know since my RE arms have always adjusted easy enough.
 
They are RE arms! haha I finally got the driver side worked free... took a bigger breaker bar, I guess my high school physics teacher was right: more leverage = more force! :D
 
Once you get them free, expose the threads coat them with anti-seize then tighten everything back down. It will help with future adjustments.
 
Rox&Mud said:
I'm betting you have RE control arms. I remember when I did my 8.8 swap the person helping me said the male and female parts of the control arm are made of different types/grades, or something to that effect, of steel which can cause them to seize together over time. Maybe he was full of :poop:, maybe not I don't know since my RE arms have always adjusted easy enough.
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That's fairly believable, different metals that sit next to each other over long periods of time can get CRAZY seized together. its called differential metal or galvanic corrosion...

As for why RE would use different grades or coatings on their CAs, can't tell why/if they would.
 
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