Hillbilly Hilton experience

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
Time was limited for getting the Hilton ready for it's first trip out for Leslie and I. Did some repairs, with no test drive.
When I bought it, I knew it had a leak at the master cylinder. I bought one and with minor modifications, got it on. Everything seemed to fall in place so I didn't do any adjustments to the push rod. Big Mistake. A mile from my home the 440 was struggling to push forward. Making several calls to find out what to do, my good friend and mechanic 3DKrawler, give me pointers, as did my friend Chris (light blue Jeep in my pictures). Needless to say the heat that I built up in there cause major damage. Several times stopping and adjusting, and bleeding off the pressure, I finally got it into the campground.
Setting up took a little while, being our first time out. But it wasn't really all that bad. Leslie had made curtains for the front, that worked out great. She also had come up with the idea of putting some aluminum racks under the mattresses to make a queen size bed, instead of two twins, worked out great. We fired up the propane fridge, and hot water heater.
Upon turning on the water we found that it must have had some RV antifreeze in it. It stunk bad! So, we flushed it out several times. Filled it up, pumped it out, and got it to where it didn't stink. We didn't use it to cook with, but did use it to flush the mode with and wash dishes.
We grilled some Chicken and had instant potatoes and green beans for dinner. Was nice to sit at a table to eat, not having to balance a plate on our lap.
IT got kinda cool that night, and Leslie wanted to light the furnace, but we never got it to light. More working to figure it out.
Breakfast time come and sausage and eggs, toast and hash browns. Yeah the oven works good too!
The AC don't work so we brought a couple of fans, never really got hot in there, stayed about the same temp as outside.
We did find out that the oven/stove vent fan comes on automatically when it gets so warm. So Saturday night, I lite one stove eye, half flame, and had a fan blowing to wards the ceiling to keep it from coming on. We woke at 7am to 75* inside and 50* outside.
Coming home was another brake issue. The RV worked great till the brakes heated up and it started to shimmy. It pulled to one side. So we stooped at the Banner Elk intersection to cool. Brought out the window fans, drop cord and cranked up the generator to power them and had the fans blowing on each caliper to cool them. Worked great! (who's your redneck!)
Trying to keep them from heating up again, and talking with David, come up with the idea of clamping off the front brakes to keep from so much heat building, and having to cool them again. That worked great. On the big down hill I took it in first gear with only rear brakes and trailer brakes. I stopped one time to cool, and then on down the mountain.

Overall assessment:
Driving it is very uncomfortable. But, it might help if I am not having to stress so much over the breaks. Also it was a handful. Maybe some better shocks might help some with body roll. Seemed to want to go the direction of every dip. Kinda scary and stressful trying to keep it in my lane, especially on the narrower roads.
Brakes will be redone with new calipers, most likely rotors too, and also brake lines. While at it gonna check out the rears too, no telling what shape they are in.
The radiator did it's job keeping it cool. The temp did sneak up some, but never got real hot. Did push out some fluid when I stopped to cool brakes. guess I had reservoir over full.
When I geared down and RPM's were higher, had some belt slipping, easy fix.
Was running about 3 grand on the tach at 55, so I am thinking I won't be in a hurry to go anywhere.
The Converter don't work or I ain't doing something right. Nothing AC works unless plugged in to AC or have RV plugged into the Generator. I also need to replace house battery and possibly add another to be able to use lights and so on for extended periods. I took a small charger with me to keep it full power
Also gonna have to check to see how it's supposed to charge. It don't seem like the engine charges it, nor does the Generator.

Over all not a good test, but the trip did give many indicators as to what I need to look into.
 
The house battery should charge from being pluged in in the camp ground,running the gen. and most have an isolater to charge when the engine is running. Unless you or the PO have put in an AC converter nothing AC will work unless your pluged in or the gen is running. They dont drive very well but you get used to it. From the sound of things I'm sure new shocks will help some. Setting up will get much easier with time youll get a system going. Trailer life has a soft cover book that explains the basics of how every thing in an RV works and how to trouble shoot it. Its a real helpful book. I think they are about $20 but I cant remember the name of it and my copy is in my camper at the beach.
 
Hey, feel free to ask me questions....

Glad to hear it's still rolling.

The converter is definitely dead. The house battery will charge when you run the generator or you're plugged into A/C but.... because the converter is bad you can't get the power out. The older converters have relays that should connect the battery to all your D/C wiring when you remove A/C but that relay must be shot. Use the little jumper I showed you to connect from the water pump over to the rest on the fuse panel. Only connect that if you're not plugged into A/C or running the generator.

Ok. To light the furnace.... When facing the furnace reach in and turn a little inline valve on the outside left on the furnace. It's just an inline valve in the propane line. Then you unscrew the cap on the front of the furnace so you can see the pilot light area inside. There are two knobs, I think it's the top one you push in while holding your lighter inside to light the pilot. It can take a few minutes of holding that knob to get the propane line filled and then it will light. Don't give up. Once the pilot's lit you just use the thermostat in the back. Toasty!


Ya, the RV antifreeze smells awful but it's non toxic and it won't freeze. :)

Glad to hear it pulled your Jeep. Better than the shoolbus?

And another thing.... I can't believe the oven works! I ran the generator to nuke baked potatoes. Just not the same.
 
I'm not sure how old the RV in question is but they almost always have an DC kill switch to shut off anything that might produce a spark while adding propane or fuel to the coach. Mine failed and would not allow the house battery to charge but would operate the house fixtures. Replaced the switch and everything was back to normal. It is normal to plug your house into the generator or shore power on coaches not equipped with an automatic switch on the generator. It prevents accidental hookup to shore power and generator power at the same time. The auto switch's are usually found on higher end RV's.
There are various suspension and steering products on the market to help take the fatigue out of driving, check out Camping World.com.
 
Chip, did you get the brakes sorted out?

I had a similar experience on my CJ when I swapped MC's. ended up my push rod was too long for the new MC and not letting the fluid back from the calipers and lines into the MC reservoirs.

Simple fix. file/grind down the push rod. 1/8" at a time and testing in between adjustments. I ended up making an adjustable push after going too short.
but you may have already figured this or sorted it out.
 
Yeah, I got the push rod figured out, but a little too late for my calipers. I think the MC is OK, but the rest of the brakes will have to be gone through.
Oh and duh, it has an adjustable push rod in it, I just failed to know what to do with it, until it was too late. My mistake!
 
Glad to hear it's still rolling.
The converter is definitely dead. The house battery will charge when you run the generator or you're plugged into A/C but.... because the converter is bad you can't get the power out. The older converters have relays that should connect the battery to all your D/C wiring when you remove A/C but that relay must be shot. Use the little jumper I showed you to connect from the water pump over to the rest on the fuse panel. Only connect that if you're not plugged into A/C or running the generator.
Ok. To light the furnace.... When facing the furnace reach in and turn a little inline valve on the outside left on the furnace. It's just an inline valve in the propane line. Then you unscrew the cap on the front of the furnace so you can see the pilot light area inside. There are two knobs, I think it's the top one you push in while holding your lighter inside to light the pilot. It can take a few minutes of holding that knob to get the propane line filled and then it will light. Don't give up. Once the pilot's lit you just use the thermostat in the back. Toasty!
Ya, the RV antifreeze smells awful but it's non toxic and it won't freeze. :)
Glad to hear it pulled your Jeep. Better than the shoolbus?
And another thing.... I can't believe the oven works! I ran the generator to nuke baked potatoes. Just not the same.

John, I don't understand the converter part. Either the AC or generator will charge the house Battery?

Using the jumper does what? Give me power to the lights and so on when not running the generator or plugged in?

Yes it pulled better than the school bus.

Oh yeah, the plate on the generator says 120/240 but the outlet is only 120, how do you get 240 out of it?

What is that polarity light in the back for?

Does the Generator charge it's own Battery?

More questions to come I am sure
 
Some answers...

John, I don't understand the converter part. Either the AC or generator will charge the house Battery?
Using the jumper does what? Give me power to the lights and so on when not running the generator or plugged in?

Yes, either the A/C or the generator will charge the house battery. You can confirm this by checking the battery voltage on the switch panel when plugged in or running the gen. The jumper will give you power to the lights when not hooked to A/C or running the gen. IF the house battery is charged. Leave it hooked up to A/C for a couple of days and then disconnect teh A/C and try the jumper. If the battery will still hold a charge you'll see what I mean. The jumper is taking the place of the relay that isn't working in the converter. The battery may have been discharged and recharged too many times at this point and be shot. I've read online that the old converters were bad about overcharging and killing batteries. Actually my best advice would be to ignore all of the above, get a new converter and a new battery. :)

Aha... I found the diagram and explanation I was looking for about the converter :
http://www.amplepower.com/apps/converter/index.html

I'd ignore his rants about converters... the newer ones have smart chargers and won't fry your house battery.

Oh yeah, the plate on the generator says 120/240 but the outlet is only 120, how do you get 240 out of it?

I have no clue on how to get 240. I'd guess that the generator is capable but the way it's wired in that RV is only set up for 120.

What is that polarity light in the back for?

I have no idea.

Does the Generator charge it's own Battery?

Yes.
 
John, we couldn't remember all that you had said! LOL I should have paid more attention!

This picture is the one that was in the packet I found...
 

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Blame the middleman

I think the broker was rushing us a bit. j/k MR BROKER!

Ya, that diagram looks about right for the external connections. The other part of the mystery is that solenoid that should connect the alternator to the house battery when you flip the unlabelled switch on the dash. That switch makes the solenoid go "clunk" but I didn't measure much difference in coach battery voltage. Now that I think about it.... it could be that the charging system isn't doing much at idle, you may want to have someone rev up the engine a bit and see what you measure on the coach battery.

Hillbilly Hilton is a good nickname. That thing is first class compared to a tent.
 
anyone know what brand generator is on the RV?

I may very well be able to get you a comlete owners/operators/service and parts manual.
 
anyone know what brand generator is on the RV?

I may very well be able to get you a comlete owners/operators/service and parts manual.

Onan 5000 watt generator.

I went and looked at the converter and it said 30amps. My question now: is that enough with a microwave, tv, laptop, etc??
 
Amps..

Onan 5000 watt generator.

I went and looked at the converter and it said 30amps. My question now: is that enough with a microwave, tv, laptop, etc??

The 30 Amps on the converter is DC. That should be plenty for DC stuff. DC stuff would be the coach lights, water pump, furnace blower, fridge ignitor... basically the built in stuff.

You're going to be running microwave, tv, laptop, etc... on A/C. That means they'll only be useful when plugged in or running the generator. If you want to run A/C stuff off the battery you'll need an inverter. You don't currently have an inverter built in. To run something small (LCD TV or laptop), you just need a small inverter that plugs into a cigarette lighter type plug. I don't recall that the RV has a plug like that connected to the coach battery. The one on the dash connects to the engine battery.

Hope this helps. I'm not the best at explaining things.
 
Cummins bought out Onan in '94
;)


Chip if you need any literature or parts, filters, etc. hit me up.
 
My main concerns as far as electrical issues are:
Charging the house batteries, and not over charging them. How long should it take the battery(s) to charge? What are the acceptable type batteries? It has a regular battery in it now, I assume for starting the RV, and a marine battery. I am thinking two marine batteries for the house. Is there a difference in marine, and deep cycle? Would the batteries charge better/faster if hooked to the generator? or through the converter? If I cabled to charge off the generator I would put a disconnect to keep from discharging the Gen Battery, or, have a solenoid to switch to be able to start the Generator off of the engine electrical system.
I have a small 500 watt power inverter, and a larger 2500 watt inverter also. I don't see a need for the larger, since anything that is gonna draw much power I would have the generator plugged in, or have it hooked to AC. The smaller one would be handy when not wanting to crank the generator or when I don't have AC to plug into, to charge camera batteries, run lap top, and so on.
Thinking about doing away with the converter all together and simply carry a battery charger with me to re-charge the batteries. to keep the batteries alive what amperage charging would be the fastest, and not burn up my batteries? 2? 10? 25? or?
 
Use 6 volt golf cart batteries for the house. Just series 2 up to give you 12volts. They "heal" alot faster and better. I changed from marine batteried in the tool truck and was going throgh 2 in parrell every 8-9 months, was talked into golf cart batteries and that's been over 2 years.
 
New converter

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/ac-to-dc-power-converter.htm

That combined with the charge wizard :

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/battery-charger.htm

I'd get those and replace the old converter with something that'd make the battery system take care of itself.

Deep cycles handle deep discharges better. If you want to go with 2 house batteries switching to a pair of golf cart batteries would be good since those are also built to withstand deep discharges.
 
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