How do u order drill chuck?

GotWood

GotWood

Sayer of Fact
Joined
Jan 12, 2007
Location
Maiden, NC
I broke the original then decided to cut it apart to see how it worked. That was a couple years ago. How do I order the correct one from Amazon?
 
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Looks like a Jacobs taper. Is there a key way?

Measure the two ends of the taper, see if it matches with a Jacobs taper chart, go from there. You should be able to find a cheapie Chinese chuck like the one that came on it, a good one will cost $80-150 (or more) and that's probably way overkill for that machine.
 
Fabrik8 said:
Looks like a Jacobs taper. Is there a key way?

Measure the two ends of the taper, see if it matches with a Jacobs taper chart, go from there. You should be able to find a cheapie Chinese chuck like the one that came on it, a good one will cost $80-150 (or more) and that's probably way overkill for that machine.
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No key way in the taper. I'll look up the chart stuff in a few.
 
The adapter looks like hell. With that much surface rust, it may have trouble wedge mating to the chuck. Ftr, there isn't supposed to be a key. It's a friction fit based on precisely machined tapers locking together when you put pressure on them. If you extend the quill, you'll probably find an oblong hole going through it. Take a metal wedge that you can grind out of 1/4" flat bar and drive it in that hole. The adapter will pop out. It's going to have a Morse taper, probably MT2 or MT3 on the quill end, then the Jacob's taper on the other. They're cheap. Go ahead and order a new one with the chuck. The taper may be printed on the adapter.
 
catfishblues said:
The adapter looks like hell. With that much surface rust, it may have trouble wedge mating to the chuck. Ftr, there isn't supposed to be a key. It's a friction fit based on precisely machined tapers locking together when you put pressure on them. If you extend the quill, you'll probably find an oblong hole going through it. Take a metal wedge that you can grind out of 1/4" flat bar and drive it in that hole. The adapter will pop out. It's going to have a Morse taper, probably MT2 or MT3 on the quill end, then the Jacob's taper on the other. They're cheap. Go ahead and order a new one with the chuck. The taper may be printed on the adapter.
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This was the kind of answer I was looking for smart ass (@Jeff B ):fuck-you:
 
GotWood said:
This was the kind of answer I was looking for smart ass (@Jeff B ):fuck-you:
Click to expand...

How do you think I learned about them? :flipoff2: I picked up an old Buffalo brand drill press years ago, and in looking for a new chuck, I learned all about adapters! @Fabrik8 has it right. If you get that wedge in that hole, you're basically going to be forcing it against the tang of the Morse taper and forcing it to break that wedgemated bond. A little history: if you've ever seen old drill bits with a tapered shaft and wondered what the hell you'd use that for, this is it. The Morse taper provides a better grip, no chuck to slip, and a truer engagement. Plus, with one less mechanical piece in the mix, the bit will be more rigid and less likely to run out. If you ever see a 2" drill bit, it will likely have a big Morse taper on the shaft.
 
Looks like a 2mt to probably a 3jt. However, the Jacob's end is now irrelevant. Buy whatever adapter fits the chuck you pick. If it's a 33jt or 1/2-20 thread or whatever. Now would be a fine time to go keyless, too, if you're so inclined. The world is your oyster!
 
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