how do you set the gap on points, dwell and etc?

BLUERUNNER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Raleigh NC
I dont know jack about ignitions, but Im learing quick. how do you set points? how to you set and check the dwell? this is all new to me.

thanks!!
 
helps if we know what engine, really it does.

Chevy, Ford AMC, use differant methods and specs, 4cyl, 6cyl 8cyl make a differance as well.

you use a feeler gauge to set the "gap" between the point contacts, when the breaker block is at the PEAK of a point on the breaker rotor. ( be sure to use a light dab of grease on this area, as they tend to wear and will cause issues later )

Setting the gap is ROUGH setting before you set the dwell, "DWELL" is the time the points are together ( aka closed) and the circut is made causing the ignition coil to charge up ( saturate) , when the points "break" or open, this is when the spark happens.

Dwell is measured in degrees of rotation of the distributor ( further known as " Dizzy" ) and requires the use of a special meter ( cheap and fairly easy to come by if you know any "old school" wrenches)

FORD used a lame method of setting dwell, to get right and accurate, you had to remove the dizzy cap a few times, as with AMC and Chrysler.

GM used a "window" in the side of the cap and an allen wrench, you could actually set the dwell while the engine was running. ( much faster and easier)

YOu'll want to set gap and dwell BEFORE you try to do ignition timing, as this will effect timing if dwell is off.

Toss out some more info, let us know what ya got.

SLade has seen me do this on an old Ford Torino, which was a finiky PITA because the dizzy was worn out. It was fun, and made me actually have to think about things again, it's been a LONG time since I played old school. THe customer was very pleased.
 
Damn now there is something i havent thought about in a few years.

Blkvoodoo is dead on, except a process. I will detail below.

Step 1 go to store buy pertronix breakerless conversion (its $50, by the time you burn a few sets off points up it has paid for itself)

Step 2 install pertronix

Step 3, throw spare points kept in glovebox away

Step 4 :driver:

Step 5 5 years later realize how bad a move throwing those points away could have been whilee typing on a forum, then breathe easier realizing you havent touched a set of points in 5 years

Step 6 :beer:
 
Damn now there is something i havent thought about in a few years.
Blkvoodoo is dead on, except a process. I will detail below.
Step 1 go to store buy pertronix breakerless conversion (its $50, by the time you burn a few sets off points up it has paid for itself)
Step 2 install pertronix
Step 3, throw spare points kept in glovebox away
Step 4 :driver:
Step 5 5 years later realize how bad a move throwing those points away could have been whilee typing on a forum, then breathe easier realizing you havent touched a set of points in 5 years
Step 6 :beer:

LOL, you know, I almost went that way! but that wasn't the question.

I have delt with Pertronix set ups as a repair in fork lifts, you better be on yer game, cuz Pertronix screws up from time to time.

customer installed thier own new pertronix set, and it ran, but really bad, turns out the magnetic breaker wheel wasn't clocked correctly for the engine installed, ( 45° off on a 4cyl) would only run with the timing advanced to the stop. took me a few to figure it out. and then only after I checked the parts he removed to conferm my suspisions
 
Damn now there is something i havent thought about in a few years.
Blkvoodoo is dead on, except a process. I will detail below.

Step 1 go to store buy Crane XR-1 points conversion (its $65, by the time you burn a few sets off points up it has paid for itself)

Step 2 install Crane setup

Step 3, throw spare points kept in glovebox away

Step 4 :driver:

Step 5 5 years later realize how bad a move throwing those points away could have been whilee typing on a forum, then breathe easier realizing you havent touched a set of points in 8 years

Step 6 Enjoy NEVER replacing/adjusting points again, meanwhile forgeting how do do it, and losing your dwell meter

Step 7 :beer:

there, I fixed it for you!

I had bad luck with the pertronix setup, but the crane setup has performed flawlessly, and has a built in rev limiter 4,6,&8k rpms.

I think mallory makes a similar setup as well, also about $50-60
 
well Im glad some of you guys can play old school, its kinda cool messing with this old stuff anyway...

Im actually dealing with a boat, i posted here because everyone here knows a hell sight more than any boat forums I have tried.

anyway, the boat is in inline 4, 3.7 mercruiser.

I got it running tonight, the first time its ran in over 5 years, i just cleaned off the points and it finally fired, and it ran damn good, then it wouldnt run anymore, but it did sound like an ignition problem.

so if i got this right, install new points, cap, rotor, and condenser. then set the gap on the points with a feeler guage when they are open the most, then use the dwell meter, then timing.

the only thing im still a little blurry on is the dwell meter?
 
I understand wanting to stay old school. For me, this is my third vehicle with Pertronix. Easy to install and all three have performed flawlessly. Its like having a fresh set of points all the time.
 
could someone point me in the direction of pertronix? i need to look into this for sure.
 
oreilly is also carrying them on the shelf now

BTW dont lose the plastic feeler gauge and try to gap your pertronix with a metal feeler gauge...

Not that I tried or anything.
 
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