How many filters?

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
I recently found that my running issues was nothing more than rust in my gas tank. I changed the carb filter and added an inline filter. Have since driven about a 100 miles. It was pretty dark, so I changed it. It wasn't stopped up yet, but since I was there I changed it. I figure the rust comes from sitting so long from PO. Anyone had experience with this as to maybe how many filters it may take until it is clear? It's very fine rust particles, not big flakes.
 
On my CJ(since sold) that had a rusty ass tank
I installed 2 filters in line and then one of those crapola clearview filters up near the carb. Not beacuse I thought it would filter anything but it was a nise diagnostic point. and if I saw ANY trash there filters got changed...strategy worked for like 6 months then I changed tank
 
you may never get rid of all of it

I've run into problems like this with motorcycles, the best cure was to remove the tank and have it cleaned and selaed.

Once you have the tank selaed, let it cure for a few days before reinstalling and filling. (uncured sealer can dissolve in the gas and cause even more plugged up filters)

If nothing else, pull the tank to clean by hand and establish how severe the rust really is.
 
1 more thing, I forgot about.

My BIL took the tank I pulled soaked it in CLR then rinsed a bunch and run it in a farm truck for several years.

maybe worth a try
 
since it's very fine stuff, I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull the tank. But, I am not sure about the pick up in the tank, it is may be keeping the bigger particles from being picked up. Not sure around here where to get it repaired. An old timer around here told me to pull the tank, and take some washed gravel and pour in it and "swoosh" it around acting as an abrasive to get all the rust out, then keep rinsing it with diesel fuel or kerosene.
 
washed gravel, various sized ball bearings, will do thre trick as well,.

Eastwood Company has a tank sealing system, basically you clean the inside real well, let dry (no oilly residue) pour the stuff in and work the tank around till everything is coated, pour out excess and let cure.

migth look around see if there may be another tank available, then just swap, might be cheaper, less time consuming in the long run.
 
not enough power/heat in propane to make it viable for a towrig.

The Propane trucks that still run off the tank are PAINFULY slow and low on power, and have a knack for burning valves and pistons. the only benifit is they NEVER run out of fuel, and oil changes are few and far between.

'pane would be ok for local and short haul, but a real "pain" on trips. You'd suck a 33lb cyl dry in short order, and still not get all that far.
 
Had same problem on my DJ. Had to pull tank, take it to radiator shop to be cleaned out, and had them coat the inside with a chemical that smelled awful and took several days to dry.
 
PM JP Scout. I know he has had several tanks done locally and was happy w/ them. It was also fairly cheap I remember.
 
The Propane trucks that still run off the tank are PAINFULY slow and low on power, and have a knack for burning valves and pistons. the only benifit is they NEVER run out of fuel, and oil changes are few and far between.

Definitely not the only benefit. A properly setup propane system will perform as well as a gasoline setup.
 
I have some POR15 tank sealer left over somewhere around here that you can use if you need. From both the classic car sites and pbb it seems to be the stuff to use or the eastwood sealer. I personally use a piece of chain rather than gravel but same concept.
 
not sure what your budget but advance auto web site shows the rear tank at ~$100 and the mid tank at ~$200... After one road side or mid-traffic mishap id be fixing it for good...
 
Rusty Tank

Chip,

If you're cheap asses like me and my brother...our old tank was leaking so I welded it.... whewwee...don't do that anybody, then jb'd it for a while...so we got us a "new" gas tank which was free btw...wunder why??

Rusty as you know what, so we took a handful of nuts & bolts and some diesel fuel and shook the whole works violently over and over everywhich way several times.

Don't use some stainless ones though like we did , tough to get out with sending unit on through the filler hole with magnet.

Put it back in der and a new inline glass doo daddy filters and new q-jet filters ....now werks great. other areas of concern on jeep are broken bellhousing(red strap holdin' dat baby in der), electrical meltdown on way to Daniel URE from locked up puller fan...took 'dat outta der, piece a chain holding transfer case in, steering column wore out poppin' & bangin', lost hood latch somewhere/somehow... but still rode all weekend :beer:
 
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