how much to lift me up?

[catfish]

i have a 76 cherokee that needs the springs flipped over the axle to lift it up. if you have done this before and have the ability and tools, let me know how much you would charge me to do this. it is not tagged and doesnt run right now, but this will change soon enuf.
let me know what parts you need and ill get them. i just need your labor charge. i will also be glad to help with the job. i just dont have the know-how and would like to learn anyway.
i will probably put blocks in the back myself afterwards.

 

[marvilusone]

Look here for an excellent kit.

http://www.ttsfabworks.com/

I ran this on one of my old waggys and it was a very well built kit and performed excelent. No blocks to cause more axle wrap either.

 

[336wheeler]

Catfish, if you have any questions about the TT's kit, it was on that blue wagoneer on 35s in asheboro at one point. I was the one that did the spring over on it... let me know.

That kit seems to be more thorough than the larger companies.

 

[catfish]

i checked out that site 336. it looks very interesting. now i guess i gotta figure out which one i need now.
i recall the blue waggie you speak of, that was sharp. hope i can get mine like that. maybe you could come by sometime and give me some pointers. i live about 1.5 miles from kcox. he sold me a set of mickey t's for my truck

 

[ncjeepers]

I've done it a few times on FSJ's.
Are you sure you're ready for a springover?
The $$$ and time add up quickly if you want to do it properly.
A poorly done SOA is a quick way to ruin a perfectly good truck.

Labor to relocate the front axle under the spring is in the neighborhood of $250.

You need to do a rear shackle reversal at the same time or you will have to use big scary blocks. Labor for a rear reversal is about the same as the front.

After that is done, you will need to deal with the following issues:
- Steering: I have seen some people get by with a 4" drop arm, sometimes the draglink will bind on the spring, sometimes it won't. You will still have bump steer. To eliminate that, you will need do a crossover steer or go full high steer. I have the parts on hand to do full high steer. I will not do it any other way.
- Brake lines: you'll need extended lines or re-route your existing lines
- Driveshafts: Chances are they will be too short so you will need longer driveshafts. The front CV is pretty much guaranteed to bind unless you spend a bunch of time clearancing the yokes or change to a high angle CV.
- Shocks: You will need some.


Instead of all that, you could just put a 4" lift kit on it. Rusty's has a 4" all spring kit for ~$500 and a front spring/rear block for ~$350, shocks included. This is pretty much a bolt-on, you don't get into all the aforementioned issues, will allow you to comfortably run a 33" tire on a wide track with no fender trimming, and makes for an extremely capable rig.

Feel free to call if I can help in any way.

 

[336wheeler]

I disagree with the high steer. After doing a full high steer on my buddy's and then using it for a while, we went to crossover. It drove much better. It was an inverted Y high steer.

I've done it a few times on FSJ's.
Are you sure you're ready for a springover?
The $$$ and time add up quickly if you want to do it properly.
A poorly done SOA is a quick way to ruin a perfectly good truck.
Labor to relocate the front axle under the spring is in the neighborhood of $250.
You need to do a rear shackle reversal at the same time or you will have to use big scary blocks. Labor for a rear reversal is about the same as the front.
After that is done, you will need to deal with the following issues:
- Steering: I have seen some people get by with a 4" drop arm, sometimes the draglink will bind on the spring, sometimes it won't. You will still have bump steer. To eliminate that, you will need do a crossover steer or go full high steer. I have the parts on hand to do full high steer. I will not do it any other way.
- Brake lines: you'll need extended lines or re-route your existing lines
- Driveshafts: Chances are they will be too short so you will need longer driveshafts. The front CV is pretty much guaranteed to bind unless you spend a bunch of time clearancing the yokes or change to a high angle CV.
- Shocks: You will need some.
Instead of all that, you could just put a 4" lift kit on it. Rusty's has a 4" all spring kit for ~$500 and a front spring/rear block for ~$350, shocks included. This is pretty much a bolt-on, you don't get into all the aforementioned issues, will allow you to comfortably run a 33" tire on a wide track with no fender trimming, and makes for an extremely capable rig.
Feel free to call if I can help in any way.

 

[ncjeepers]

I disagree with the high steer. After doing a full high steer on my buddy's and then using it for a while, we went to crossover. It drove much better. It was an inverted Y high steer.

The inverted Y is what screwed it up.

 

[catfish]

850.00 and a little work and im in business? that sounds like a better plan. i assume that comes with all replacement hardware since i am gonna break all that stuff trying to remove it

 

[ncjeepers]

850.00 and a little work and im in business? that sounds like a better plan. i assume that comes with all replacement hardware since i am gonna break all that stuff trying to remove it

For the 4" lift?

- $500 for an all spring lift kit
OR
- $350 for a front spring/rear block lift kit

last I checked with Rusty's anyway.

And it is more than a little work. The front is easy. The back can be a real beyatch because you will probably have to pull your gas tank.

You need to get that thing running first!!! I'll get you some pics of those tires.