How much wedge is too much??

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
A PO installed an unknown lift on my CJ7. I don’t know brand or lift height (guessing 3” lift). The installer added transfer case skid plate spacers as well as a small wedge between the axle tube spring plate and the spring to correct the driveshaft angle. Guessing 3° wedges….

The transfer case skid plate spacers tilt the rear of the engine into a position which makes the rear-most bolt in the valve cover inaccessible.

How much more wedge can I safely add to correct the driveline angles if I was to remove the skid plate spacers?
 
Jody Treadway said:
Simple answer is ever how many degrees to correct the driveline angle after lifting. Not meant to be a smart ass answer, even though it kinda sounds like one. Lol
Click to expand...

Correcting my post - I got it.

Basicly, I need to take out the spacers, measure output spline angle then match it at the yoke using wedges.

or cut it all apart and weld the perches where they need to be!

thanks!
 
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Jeffncs said:
Sorry - I’m not following. Are you saying that I shouldn’t use any wedges at all? I have the axles apart and could cut/re-weld the perches, but really didn’t want to do that if I could help it.

Not trying to be lazy or to cut a corner, but was hoping for an easier (safe) solution that’s less invasive.
Click to expand...
What @Jody Treadway is saying is, take off the transfer case drop, measure what degree shims you need (be sure to take into account that 3* shims are already being used), and then order the shims needed. Simple as that.
 
Don't know if it helps any, but after installing 2 & 1/2 lift leaf springs, I put in 4* wedges, that came with the kit. It drove a little funky, so I went with 6*. Maybe just for the front, can't remember the rear. Drove good after that! I never had a driveline problem. Bigger problem was in the caster /camber.
 

Driveline/Propshaft 101

www.4crawler.com

so you know how to properly measure. I run 4* steel in my xj on 6.5" of lift. Steel so can be welded to the axle pad.
 
I'll ask the question, do you really need to adjust it? Not saying you did but did you just assume you needed to?

The way I used to do it was install the lift. Then droop the suspension and see if the driveshaft binds. If it doesn't, run it. If it does, then start the geometry lesson. The reason being is that I'm assuming you want to still be able to street it. In my experience it's best to leave the caster close to stock if that's the case.
 
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