how to attach an aluminum roof to cage

GubNi

GubNi

8 lug disc brakes?
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Jonesborough, TN
I want to attach an aluminum roof to a steel cage. I want to cut the panels and recess them in the cage a little and caulk them to make it water proof. What have you done?

I could make or buy tabs, or run solid strips and then bolt them or screw them. I don't like the idea of sharp screw and I want to do it quick and easy.
 
GubNi said:
flatbar and caulk is my plan but that involves drilling alot of holes and bolting it all together.
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A lot of holes? ya don't need that many. If you don't want to drill them have someone laser or plasma cut the parts out.

with the right bit, drilling through 1/8" metal is easy and quick
 
For just a roof, yeah, I'd just make up like 8 triangular tabs (just take 2 squares, cut on the diagonal twice gives you 4 each, 8 very quickly), drill a hole through each w/ a press, and weld those onto the tube, 2 on each side. Or maybe 3 for a whopping 12 total. Lay the sheet metal on top and screw into the holes, then seal it up.
a good sealant would be the high-flex stuff made for HVAC systems, it can fill big holes and takes flexing really well.
 
A good seam sealer for bodywork from Eastwood or somewhere like that, and you shouldn't need fasteners at all. Good luck ever getting it off again, though!
 
GubNi... what did you end up doing for this? I'm getting ready to rework the cage in my pile of parts and am going the route of an AL skin roof. You go with tabs and rivets? Pan screws and nuts? One big sheet to cover a couple of bars or individual panels between bars?
 
I haven't done it yet, but here's the plan.

Take 11 guage sheet metal and cut into 3/4" strips with a metal cutting circular saw. Then weld that to the tube in all sections to create a framework to attach it to. Then I will cut aluminum panels to fit. The thin metal will easily flex to the bends in the tubing and the aluminum is easy to trim to fit. Then I am going to silicon it and rivit it together. The silicon will eliminate rattles and make it water tight. The panels will be slightly recessed so in a roll they won't get ripped off easily, but not recessed so much that water ponds in them.
 
Very cool! Thanks for the quick response too. I am still on the fence about doing individual panels or doing one big sheet. I guess it depends on the shape the cage ends in when its all said and done. Something I've though about doing if I end up with one big sheet is finding someone with a bead roller and roll a few ridges in it to help keep the vibration flexing down on it. Hrmm...
 
save yourself some work and buy 3/4" flat bar rather than cutting all of it from a sheet of metal. The blades alone will cost more than the 3/4" flat bar...
 
rockcity said:
save yourself some work and buy 3/4" flat bar rather than cutting all of it from a sheet of metal. The blades alone will cost more than the 3/4" flat bar...
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I didn't know they made flat bar that thin. I am ordering steel tomorrow so I will check that out.

Btw my saw gets lots of cuts with one blade so I think it would be fine.
 
It may not come as cold rold or hot rolled stock in that gauge but I worked for shop that used to get thin gauge in those dimensions, the supplier sheared sheet stock down for us, but we bought a bunch of it. How much you need and how long. Is it enough for me to shear down and ship you some?
 
They also typically have flat bar in stock at Lowes/HomeDepot or a hardware store in both steel and aluminum.
 
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