How would you suggest cutting these aluminum corners?

REDLYNER

Mall Crawling Race Rig
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Location
Mountain Island
I've never had to cut arches and really don't want to screw these up. How would you guys suggest cutting these aluminum crusher corners?

They will be arriving like this:
awww.polyperformance.com_shop_images_D_FCA_Blank_400.jpg


And I want to cut it like this:
attachment.php



Do I need a special blade? What type of saw would you use? Jig saw? Grinder with cut off wheel? Plasma (friend has a plasma cutter)?

Sorry for the noob questions, I've just never cut aluminum or arches before. All of the other crap I have made has been steel and straight.
 
Plasma, & a cone rock on the grinder if you don't have a guid for the torch.
 
Find a shop with a Waterjet and let them do it...should be less than $30 for both sides.


I would pay that any day of the week. Much better than me trying to make a smooth line.
 
I would pay that any day of the week. Much better than me trying to make a smooth line.

When my dad had his shop, he'd do stuff like that all the time. Shouldn't be too difficult set up the program (30-45 mins) for that cut and both sides should cut in under 5 minutes a side. Problem is, now you gotta find a shop with a waterjet willing to do it. BTW...someone with a plasma table could do the same thing with roughly the same tolerances.
 
First I would make a cardboard template. Then trace it onto the new parts. Then use any type of cutting tool to get it close and a dremel to smooth out the edges.
 
You really shouldn't cut corners, you should do it right the first time. Sorry, just couldn't resist.:lol:
 
Masking tape to protect it, draw the line on the tape, and carefully cut it with a jigsaw. Clamping it to a piece of wood to help keep it rigid will help. Chean it up with a grinder and a Scotch-brite disk or a flap disk. That'd be my approach.
 
the setup on a waterjet would be costly. Most waterjets run $150/hr including setup time.

I'd trace it out with some posterboard and use a cut off wheel then finish it out with a 220 flapper wheel. It'll take some time to look good, though.


From what I've seen, Scott at Rides does really nice sheet metal work and if you were close, I'd take it there :)
 
Redlyner.....smells of a "stretch" project...do tell.
 
Redlyner.....smells of a "stretch" project...do tell.


What's up Nitin?!!

Yep, it's going to get a little longer. I'm at 95" to 95 1/2" right now and with the new tires, I am out of room in the rear. I believe I am going with the Clayton rear 5" stretch kit and have had their checkout page on my screen for about two weeks, I just can't pull the trigger. I keep flip flopping on which kit.


I really can't decide on the corners either. While I know I could cut the wheel wells out, they wouldn't look very nice or round for that matter. I need aluminum to lighten up the rig and Savvy doesn't make pre-cut stretch corners.

So my choices are:

1. Savvy aluminum blanks and Savvy sliders for roughly $600 plus cutting the corners.

2. Genright aluminum stretch (pre-cut) corners plus steel sliders for $750

3. TNT aluminum stretch corner (pre-cut, no flare option) and they mate up to my current steel sliders for $550. Then get the aluminum Savvy sliders down the road.


Savvy setup (would lose about 100lbs):
awww_pirate4x4_com_forum_attachment_php_c91cf28c9292425b38c2ca8a109c730d._.jpg


Genright setup (would lose about 50lbs):
awww.genright.com_images_products_TFF4000b_lg.jpg


TNT setup (would lose about 70lbs):
ai711.photobucket.com_albums_ww112_TnTCustoms_EJS_202010_Steven_20TJ_DSC00780.jpg
 
Jay - Dude..work here ...your ride is looking sweet man...I like it.

I would go with the TNT's - I talked to those guys and they will even pre-punch out the rear mount YJ style Fuel Filler Connection - so it's "trim and bolt-on"....well..for the corners at least. They were gonna do the Steel versions for me for about $300, but then again I wasn't looking to lose weight...at least for the TJ.

From what I've read, you might be able to get away with a slightly increased arch trim at the rearmost part of the wheelwell to limp by. maybe 2" rearward cut with an arc to blend back into the wheelwell. A similar 1" trim on the front of the rear wheelwell might be needed.

This might buy you some time to research what others have done. You might even like it like that and postpone that $3k+ Upgrade you're thinking about......naaah....spend the money!!
 
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