HP44 steering questions

TheZenTree

TheZenTree

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Central KY
I'm working on putting together steering for my HP44 and I noticed that the stock tie-rod has a bend in it for what looks like diff cover clearance. I don't want to run a stock tie-rod because only one end has a removable TRE, so I need to make something that'll accept two TREs.

Can I just use a piece of straight tube (and what kind of tube should I use for this and the draglink?) or do I need to put a bend in it? I'm sticking with the stock diff cover for now.

Also, for the TREs, both should be the same thread (as opposed to one right hand, one left hand), so the toe doesn't get all screwed up, right? Adjusting it should just be a matter of loosening the jam nut, and turning the TRE in or out, assuming the tie-rod is cut the right length?

TIA
 
you need to ask gubni about this. i just went up to tennessee last week and he was working on this project and it looked really strong. he doesnt mind answering questions. been very helpful to me.
 
as far as i know, you can use a straight pipe, but it may reduce turning radius. As for the TRE's you NEED one right and one left, otherwise you have to take one of the TRE's out of the steering arm to make an adjustment.

with one right and one left, loosen BOTH jamb nuts, and turn the bar, not the TRE's
 
I guess that makes sense. I was thinking along the lines of the jamb nuts coming loose and throwing both TRE's out, but I guess that could happen in either case, so no point in losing sleep about it.

Broncomania, I'll PM him after work, I'm running late right now
 
i'm in wilmington as well...

check out masonboro auto on market street

kelly's tj has a hp d44 f250 axle that he just removed that he had setup with custom high steer setup using heim joints and DOM tubing...

danny also has a customer's yj that is running the same axle with a similar or possibly identical steering setup.

i'll be going up there next week to get him to do my steering for that saqme axle under my YJ.....

-Erik <--- says you should tell danny that erik with the big white broken yj sent you
 
i just called parts mike and ordered everything i need for my high steer setup. in less than 7 minutes he explained everything i would need and confirmed that it would all be shipping out today. simply amazing....
 
I know I've heard of parts mike, but I don't recall much more than the name. Care to enlighten me?
 
www.partsmike.com

heard of him but never looked into his stuff until today.

i spent the last two days planning my high steer setup and trying to figure out what would work. in the end, i had ideas but didn't know for sure 100%

called him and in less than 7 minutes he had explained everything to me that would work, would not work, and what my best options were for a heavy duty and dependable steering setup using the axle i have. 79 F250 HP D44

i was under the assumption that when i called "Parts Mike" i would get some schmo that worked the phone taking orders for $8/hour, but to my amazement it was actually Mike himself. Goes to show what can be accomplished in today's competitive market if you have the motivation and skills required to compete.... 1 single person just took my $500 order away from poison spyder and gave me the BEST customer service I've ever had from a retailer....

His number is 530-885-0673
he is in auburn, california <--- only downside i see about using him


if you just need a tie rod made then masonboro auto may be the better choice since it's so convenient... but if you are willing to wait you can just call him and he'll cut the DOM tubing and thread it for you, to your specifications.

-Erik
 
I'm not worried about making it, I just want to make sure I'm making it correctly. I'll give him a call tomorrow, thanks.
 
it sounds like you and i are building practically the same setup if i understand right... which would mean you woudl need two high steer arms, 4 tie rod ends, DOM tubing for your drag link and tie rod, and you'll need to mill and tap your passenger side knuckle as well as your pitman arm. he performs those services.... he also sells new bored pitman arms for like $40 or so if i remember right.

call him, he'll get you set right. or drop by masonboro tomorrow and see if they can hook you up.
 
Can I just use a piece of straight tube <-- yes

(and what kind of tube should I use for this and the draglink?) <-- DOM tube and you will need to have it tapped to accept the threads or buy weld in bungs - I can sell it to you ready to go for $120 plus shipping for both pieces tapped and ready to go.

or do I need to put a bend in it? <-- nope

I'm sticking with the stock diff cover for now. <-- HP axle diff covers are thicker than low pinion diff covers. They hold up pretty well.

Also, for the TREs, both should be the same thread (as opposed to one right hand, one left hand), so the toe doesn't get all screwed up, right? <-- Wrong - they need to be different do you can adjust the tow in the front axle.

Adjusting it should just be a matter of loosening the jam nut, and turning the TRE in or out, assuming the tie-rod is cut the right length? <-- Much easier if you just have to turn the rod and also more precise since you don't have to make a full revolution.

I can get you the part numbers for the heavy duty chevy TRE's - about $25 each. Also you should consider putting the tie rod ends on top of the knuckles, but you'd have to buy a reamer (about $70), but you can sell it after you are done.

PM me if you need that tube.
 
just a note... a lot of people i wheel with prefer to have the tre's on their tie rod with the same thread so that JUST IN CASE something comes loose or gets banged around ont he trail, the toe will not get off if for some reason the tie rod twists... on the downside, you have to remove the tre from the arm to adjust your toe when you get an alignment.....
 
Erik said:
just a note... a lot of people i wheel with prefer to have the tre's on their tie rod with the same thread so that JUST IN CASE something comes loose or gets banged around ont he trail, the toe will not get off if for some reason the tie rod twists... on the downside, you have to remove the tre from the arm to adjust your toe when you get an alignment.....
Click to expand...


I see two problems with this set up
#1 you have limited adjustment. While granted a thread is not a large amount I ahve many times felt steering wheel differences with 1/4 turn tie-rod adjustments. YRMV

#2 plus if this is going to be driven on road at all, your alignment will be a bitch to knock the tierods out, tighten them back down, re measure repeat.

The only real beneift I see to this setup, is one less spare part to carry, but (knock on wood) Ive never broken a TRE on the trail, U shaped 2 tie rods but never a TRE...

Oh hell better go buy another set of spares, I just jinxed myself.
 
haha, you hit the nail on the head and that's why most everybody does want LH and RH threads on their tie rod... i just wanted to point out that there were people who for the above reasons prefer the same thread. thinking back about it though, you're right... almost everyone i've heard of who does that does it on a trail rig....
 
GubNi said:
I can get you the part numbers for the heavy duty chevy TRE's - about $25 each. Also you should consider putting the tie rod ends on top of the knuckles, but you'd have to buy a reamer (about $70), but you can sell it after you are done.

PM me if you need that tube.
Click to expand...

Good idea. What is the PN for those TREs? Also, I posted this same thread on CK5, and one guy mentioned that I should use drag link ends for the drag link, because the TREs don't have quite the range of motion that DLEs do. Any truth to this?

As for the tubing, I'd like to make it myself if possible, but if that doesn't work out, I'll definately give you a shout. Thanks for the help.
 
hey, ive got two brand new DLEs that youre talking about and also two used ones (pairs of left and right threads), i think ive got some jam nuts for them as well

let me know if you might be interested, if not, i can get those PNs for you when i get back home if someone doesnt beat me to it
chris
 
Might be interested in the new DLEs if they're what I need. I'll probably be coming through Raleigh in the next few weekends, so if I do need em, I'll just grab em then, cool?
 
TheZenTree said:
Also, I posted this same thread on CK5, and one guy mentioned that I should use drag link ends for the drag link, because the TREs don't have quite the range of motion that DLEs do. Any truth to this?
Click to expand...

Absolutely. You want to use the correct ends for the drag link and not tie rod ends. As you stated, a TRE does not have the angle capability of a DLE.

I have also had very good luck with PartsMike on axle components.

Another source for steering components is WFO Concepts. Trevor is a very cool and knowledgable guy. Same as the other guy said, within minutes he had me straight on what my options were. Everything showed up on time and as expected. Here is the link to his site:
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/
 
Hi, this is Danny from Masonboro Automotive. I will have to thank eric for the good words. If you need anything just give us a call toll free. 888-397-9131. We build custom steering all the time. Good luck
 
Back
Top