HP60 Scratch Build Help?

mark dupont

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2009
Location
Mooresville, NC
Budget building a HPD60 front axle assembly for my 1983 CJ8, will be traditional pass drop & SUA... I have an empty HP60 pumpkin, tubes have been removed so I have a clean sheet to work with. Tube is 3.125 x.50 DOM, tube will be sourced through Stock Car Steel.

Have NOT yet purchased kingpin nor inner "C" parts yet.

I've scoured Pirate, BillaVista and various manufacturers websites for info.

Since the spring inboard/outboard configuration and overall WMS-WMS length is currently undetermined, the question is who has or where can I find info on "assembled" knuckle dimension to determine how much tube I need to purchase so I can do a rough dimensional sketch. Since I have the pumpkin on the bench, the pressed in depth is easy enough to acquire, just need knuckle dimension.

Thanks,

Mark
 
Greatly appreciated Adam! I would expect dimensions for Kingpin would be different, Kingpin being wider???

I now wish I went a little wider overall however as the project sits - Tarheel built my REAR D60 semi-float at 59.75" wms-wms. My thought is build the front axle ass'y at aprox. 60.50"/75" wms-wms.

Considering the outboard kit to add a little more front-end stability, make sense????
 
I wouldn't bother with king pin stuff, I'd run 99-04 or 05+ Ford 60 outers. You're in a pickle if your rear is only ~60" wide, for a trail rig I'd shoot for 65-67" wide on a shorter wheel base.
 
Personally I’d look into using 78/79 Ford d60 inner shafts and 05-up outters. Custom shafts suck to get in a pinch unless you can throw stupid money at it. But I can agree you’re gonna want more width. Especially with leafs up front because you’ll get into the leaf spring when turning.
 
The super duty 60 knuckles and Cs being as large as they are, might push the overall width out more than what you're wanting. The kingpin set up is definitely more compact.

If you decide to go the 99 to 04 route, I can pull any measurements you need off of my front.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Personally I’d look into using 78/79 Ford d60 inner shafts and 05-up outters. Custom shafts suck to get in a pinch unless you can throw stupid money at it. But I can agree you’re gonna want more width. Especially with leafs up front because you’ll get into the leaf spring when turning.
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Appreciate the feedback very much.... I’ve been wheelin’ the Scrambler for about 16 years, when I first built it I put in a GM 4.3/700R4 and WT44 rear and narrowed a Waggy 44 front, Detroit’s both ends and 37’s... the combo worked well with a decent turning radius... for this build I increased the axle width by 5” to accommodate outboard towers and longer shocks for the rear. I also figured outboarding the front springs would give me an extra 2” to move the pumpkin over enough to angle the front shaft and gain additional 700r4 pan clearance.

All feedback very much welcomed!!!!

Power provided by GM 5.3L 450hp plant & Holley Terminator TBI kit.
 
Building a front axle like that seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me. I would be very tempted to switch to driver drop and just use a SD60 and matching rear axle. The pair can be bought for as little as $400-500. Isn't it easier to pass a driveshaft down the other (driver) side of a 700R4? Plus I believe the SD60 pumpkins are further offset to the outside than the popular 78-79 Ford HP60's so driveshaft clearance should be better. Obviously the TC would have to be changed. Don't let the parts you have on hand like that rear D60 and front housing dictate the direction of your build. They can be sold. Just my 2 cents.
 
drkelly said:
Building a front axle like that seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me. I would be very tempted to switch to driver drop and just use a SD60 and matching rear axle. The pair can be bought for as little as $400-500. Isn't it easier to pass a driveshaft down the other (driver) side of a 700R4? Plus I believe the SD60 pumpkins are further offset to the outside than the popular 78-79 Ford HP60's so driveshaft clearance should be better. Obviously the TC would have to be changed. Don't let the parts you have on hand like that rear D60 and front housing dictate the direction of your build. They can be sold. Just my 2 cents.[/QUOTE

Not like I didn’t think
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drkelly said:
Building a front axle like that seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me. I would be very tempted to switch to driver drop and just use a SD60 and matching rear axle. The pair can be bought for as little as $400-500. Isn't it easier to pass a driveshaft down the other (driver) side of a 700R4? Plus I believe the SD60 pumpkins are further offset to the outside than the popular 78-79 Ford HP60's so driveshaft clearance should be better. Obviously the TC would have to be changed. Don't let the parts you have on hand like that rear D60 and front housing dictate the direction of your build. They can be sold. Just my 2 cents.
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Thanks for putting the fly in the ointment... considered that route 80-bazillion times... May have to reconsider again.
 
drkelly said:
Building a front axle like that seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.
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Thanks for being the asshole on this one. I was going to be the guy that said "buy a 05+ SD front, they're only $300", but decided to keep my mouth shut. :flipoff2:
 
shawn said:
Thanks for being the asshole on this one. I was going to be the guy that said "buy a 05+ SD front, they're only $300", but decided to keep my mouth shut. :flipoff2:
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You should get one. They are only like $300. Even if you don’t want to use it you try to lift it up and realize a Dana 44 is just as heavy :D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you are keeping it leaf sprung, 99-04 SD housing or at least from the knuckles out.
Use 88-96 Ford short side shaft and a 77-79 Ford pass side inner on other side. That'll be about the shortest OEM length combo.
Otherwise you'll need a custom long side inner.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Especially with leafs up front because you’ll get into the leaf spring when turning.
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Don't miss this point that was mentioned. Placing the leaf springs WIDE apart on an axle with a 60"WMS could cause you to end up with a 100 foot turning radius.
 
To keep the width down on a front superduty axle, I've seen guys cut the long side down to fit a 78-79 ford front axle. It puts the width in the 67-68" area where most 14 bolts are.
 
bonecrusher said:
Where are you guys getting Superduty D60s for 300?
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That's pretty much the going rate.

There are yards in Youngsville and Goldsboro with a bunch of them for $300/ea.
 
bonecrusher said:
I'm not allergic to grinder dust.

:)
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I forgot that the OP wanted to put it on leafs anyway. From what I've seen, the coil spring axles are cheaper, and they come with brackets that might be useful for your own link setup (or not). IIRC, the newer axles had better bearings, but none of those are deal breakers.
 
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