HVAC heat distribution and increasing efficiency

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
Speaking of house filteres etc....

So we're having this problem at the house, our son's room is chronically colder than the rest of the house by around 4 degrees. It's a classic 60s 1-level Ranch, albeit bigger than many, something like 1700 sq ft.
His room is on the far end, as is ours. Ours isn't bad at all.
Can't quite figure out why; yes the attic insulation sucks, and I've already bought many rolls to add to the top, but it's the same all the way across and over all the rooms so that feels unlikely to me.

I realized the basement is just as warm as the house... which is convenient, but means all that heat is coming from somewhere!

The gas furnace is about 1/4 of the way along the length of the house, opposite the bedrooms, which means its a good 40-45+ feet from there to the end where Jonas's room is, plus the 12' branch to his register.

My thinking is, the air temp is is falling off alot before it gets there, radiating into the basement, and I need to insulate all the ductwork. So I've bought a whole lot of R6 to coat it with.

Meanwhile, it turns out almost none of the duct junctions were taped, and in some cases barely even mated w/ 1/4"+ gaps. Even better, all the return lines are created from boxing in joists (they just cut a hole in the top of the main trunk under a joist, then nailed sheeting up along it to some point under the floor, then the wall space above between studs serves as the return "duct")... and in many cases the sheet mating is really bad w/ huge gaps etc, could really feel the vacuum loss from around these underneath.

lesson: Inspect your ductwork, you may be losing a lot of "good air"!

So I've been spending alot of time w/ HVAC mastic (e.g. bull snot!) and tape covering all the seams, getting it all "tight".
Now that i've done that, there is a slight difference in the pressure at the supply vents, but especially the returns. In fact the sound of rushing air is very noticible now when it's running.

Meanwhile Jonas's room yesterday was still pretty cold (I haven't insulated the ducts yet). He tends to keep the door closed all day. I'm almost wondering if the increased vent pressure is working against me now? Am I now sucking what litle warm air I'm getting out "faster" than before?

This led me to another curious question. The bedrooms all have both a supply and a return, but many spaces have only supplies (kitchen hallway, den has 2 and 1 return, living room has 3 and 2). 14 supplies, only 6 returns. The return vents are only a little bigger than the supplies.
Now maybe I'm crazy, but it seems to me that w/ this design, if I assume the house is air tight (which of course it is NOT!), that means the sucking pressure at each return is > 2x the outgoing pressure at the vents... at least now that I have sealed up all the leaks, lol . This seems like it would be (a) counterproductive and (b) hard on the blower motor.

OK so after all that rambling I'm not even sure what my point is anymore...

Am I on the right track? Any other possibilities that could explain the uneven heat? It is generally warmer in our living room (which is right above the furnace), and even though our bedroom is also on the far end of the house, it has 2 supplies
 
He tends to keep the door closed all day.

Open his door. See how that affects it.

Also, close any return ducts that are in his room. That should eliminate any short-circuiting issues from the equation.

My guess is that he keeps his door closed all the time, which increases the static pressure in the room, ensuring it receives less hot air than the rest of the house, and any hot air it does receive short-circuits back through the return duct (again aided by the pressure differential). Bonus points if his room is on a corner of the house, double bonus if it's the north side.
 
- have you checked each supply branch for holes/obstructions/etc.?
- throttle back on a few vents in the warmer rooms to force more flow to the cooler rooms. if your bedroom is at the end of a branch where the duct losses are lower, it may be getting more of the flow, so by closing those little by little you should force more air to the cooler rooms to 'balance' the flow/temp. gradient
 
Also, consider putting some of that heat-shrink plastic draftstopping over the windows in his room. That'll help with air infiltration from outside, especially if the windows are original.
 
Open his door. See how that affects it.

Also, close any return ducts that are in his room. That should eliminate any short-circuiting issues from the equation.

My guess is that he keeps his door closed all the time, which increases the static pressure in the room, ensuring it receives less hot air than the rest of the house, and any hot air it does receive short-circuits back through the return duct (again aided by the pressure differential). Bonus points if his room is on a corner of the house, double bonus if it's the north side.
- there is a return in his room FYI, and it has great negative pressure espceially now that I've seaed the leaks.
- keeping the door open helps a lot
- yes he keeps it closed alot (but I told you that so no points!). We keep opening it, but he's 6 and determined to keep it closed... not an easy fight... and at night obviously it must stay closed.
- yes it's corner - so you get 1 point - but so is ours, no problem there - but it also has 2 supplies - but yeah I'm sure the 2 exterior wals and 45 y/o exterior insulation dosn't help. At least the house is brick.
- only 1/4 double bonus points, 1 wall faces NE and the other is SE. NE side is blocked by a big bush and a tree so the wind isn't too bad.

Last night I taped a piece of cardboard over the return in his room. Hard to tell w/ a sample of n=1 night but it didn't seem much better (I was surprised).

- have you checked each supply branch for holes/obstructions/etc.?
- throttle back on a few vents in the warmer rooms to force more flow to the cooler rooms. if your bedroom is at the end of a branch where the duct losses are lower, it may be getting more of the flow, so by closing those little by little you should force more air to the cooler rooms to 'balance' the flow/temp. gradient

Yes, went through and masticked/taped all joints etc. Could maybe use a little more at the registers themselves.
The flow seems ok even at the far end, but the vent temp feels lower to my hand.

Hence I'm thinking I need insulation.

Is there a trick to measuring flowing air temp at a vent w/o needing a laser thermometer?
 
double bonus if it's the north side.

Ah damnit Shawn I looked at a map, gotta give yah the points, 1 wall is straigh N, other is E. :lol:. And the N one hast he tree and bush, so now that I think of it, there's never any direct sunlight on that window.
The whole front of the house faces N too, though, and those rooms are OK.
 
Cut rectangle opening in door about one foot from floor, install vent grills on both sides. Or cut door at bottom about a inch or more and air will flow with door shut and breath. Both cheap fixes.
R V's have a terrible time with heat and air, doors are always short on purpose.
 
Wow, never knew HVAC had so much science to it. I have some rooms at the end of the house (North side) that stay a lot colder. I thought it was just the air pressure wasn't enough, but now after reading this it's more likely the heat is cooling down before it gets there. Off to check my duct work. :D
 
Wow, never knew HVAC had so much science to it. I have some rooms at the end of the house (North side) that stay a lot colder. I thought it was just the air pressure wasn't enough, but now after reading this it's more likely the heat is cooling down before it gets there. Off to check my duct work. :D

yeah, I was shocked when I started inspecting mine...
that was part of the point of this thread! Everybody go check yours!

Aparently it is very common for systems to be losing 20%+ of the air just from leaky joints etc.

BTW, there is a great tax credit that expires this year (as in 5 days) - not sure if it got extended w/ the new budget - specifically for improving home efficiency.

You get a 30% credit - that's literally 30% of the cost back to you - for expenses on insulation, including insulating ductwork.
And if you buy the right kind of tape/mastic that can be deducted as well.

Go by the post office and get a "moving package", has a 10% off card from Lowes, HD will honor them too. W/ the credit thats 40% saved on insulation costs right now!
 
I installed a completely new HVAC unit this year for $8k. It replaced half of the duct work and left he half at the front of the house alone. I suspect it's leaking. I've got all the forms and stuff for the tax credit! :beer:

I do need insulation in the attic though.
 
Having a mechanical HVAC background (industrial and pharmaceutical), I'd say 90% of the problem is prob. the lack of sealing the supply duct or that it lacks the proper size.

With older homes, many of the ducts wern't really "sized" especially if additions have been built or if the system has been modified in some way through the years.
Residential ductwork sealing is very poor. I'm surprised SMACNA hasn't increased the standards
From what I remember, most residential homes have at least a 25% reduction in CFM from AHU output to what is measured at the diffuser. This is extremely poor. in pharma work, we have to have no more than 2% system loss. Very poor requirements on residential.
Over time, I'm sure the poorly installed and sealed ductwork has become worse.
I'm sure insulation, N facing room, and older windows will have some effect but most of the time the system is not correctly sized or the duct isn't correctly sized.
Before doing "band aid" type fixes (sealing windows, extra insulation, modifying the door), I'd suggest really evaluating the system and the ductwork. Actually fixing the root cause of the problem (potentially), may solve the problem so you don't have to do 10 other "maybe" fixes that may not address the root cause.

I don't know if I'd close off the return duct to his room, especially if he keeps his door closed. That will only give you a positive pressure in the room and decrease your efficiency and will prob. heat the room but will likely cause another portion of the house to become cooler.

HVAC balancing is an art and one little change may affect the entire system.

Make sure the system is sized correctly. if 75% of the house is OK and the room that is 45' away is cool, your system may not be putting out enough BTU or the CFM may be low. Cause: undersized unit or ductwork size and balancing is not sufficient. Check the dampers in the ductwork. Make sure they are adjusted properly.
 
BTW, find a HVAC supply house and buy your parts there. The parts are much better quality and they are way more help than the $8/hr guy at HD.

I'd suggest RE Michel (based out of MD :D ) or something similar


Contrary to popular belief, don't use duct tape! Get real mastic and use that!
 
Having a mechanical HVAC background (industrial and pharmaceutical), I'd say 90% of the problem is prob. the lack of sealing the supply duct or that it lacks the proper size....

Make sure the system is sized correctly. if 75% of the house is OK and the room that is 45' away is cool, your system may not be putting out enough BTU or the CFM may be low....

Cause: undersized unit or ductwork size and balancing is not sufficient. Check the dampers in the ductwork. Make sure they are adjusted properly.

Thanks for the info.
Ok so how does an idiot hack DIYer like me find out if it is sized correctly??
The CFM "feels" pretty decent, and roughly equal everywhere.

Wife's dad is an old-school architect, he was here a few months ago, we were talking about finishing part of the basement, looking at the size of the unit he said ,"Oh yeah thsi could handle another 400 sq ft, no problem"... but I'm not 100% I trust him, lol.

The main trunk at least does reduce in size as it goes along, maybe 17' @ 24", then 10'@ 20", last bit @ 16" or something. But all the offshoots are 6".

Dampers?
AFAIK, the only ones there are in the whole system are the ones at the registers that angle the air, but even those aren't "in" the duct at all, just below the surface of the metal grating. They'd have to be nearly 100% closed before they'd push back much at all.

Should there be some in the ductwork somewhere?
 
- there is a return in his room FYI, and it has great negative pressure espceially now that I've seaed the leaks.

As far as troubleshooting goes, I'd look at the return as being your enemy for the time being. Even if the supply and return are well-separated, some portion of your new warm air is going back into that return prematurely. I'd rather see a transfer duct (like Terry's idea) that allows air to migrate back to the center of the house before returning to the AHU.

Got any little probe-type thermometers? I'm curious to know how much temp falloff there is relative to other diffusers in the house. Not that there's a lot you can do about it, aside from insulating the ducts... but it would be interesting to see.

$5 thermometer

Oh, and what Hurley said. Look for dampers inline, too. Some of those old trunk-branch systems had a damper on each branch line to help balance the air flow. Do what you can to increase the temperature of the air, but you'll probably see the greatest improvement from just increasing the CFM.
 
Contrary to popular belief, don't use duct tape! Get real mastic and use that!

Oh yeah, did that for sure - the 3" wide metal tape, and a bucket of the mastic. That stuff is nasty, but works awesome.

The few places there was duct tape on there, it was brittle and came right off - no way that adhesive backing is made for this.
 
Got any little probe-type thermometers? I'm curious to know how much temp falloff there is relative to other diffusers in the house. Not that there's a lot you can do about it, aside from insulating the ducts... but it would be interesting to see.

$5 thermometer

Oh, and what Hurley said. Look for dampers inline, too. Some of those old trunk-branch systems had a damper on each branch line to help balance the air flow. Do what you can to increase the temperature of the air, but you'll probably see the greatest improvement from just increasing the CFM.

no in-line dampers that I have found.
Don't have one of those thermometers but I coudl get one.

What I wondered about the thermo though is, if you hold it in the duct while the air is blowing, I assume it has to held for a second foe the mercury to do its job. Won't the reading not be constant? e.g. it will continue to move upwards while you hold it? Or am I just overthinking this.
 
They respond pretty quickly. Just leave it in the diffuser and check on it after the system has been running for a few minutes.
 
Use a CFM meeter, a ductulator, room size, CFM of unit, etc. to see if the unit is OK. Usually they are but if an addition has been built, sometimes the unit is not quite up to the task, or if a bonus room has been finished and added to the conditioned square foot totals, etc. etc. Some times idiot contractors just install what was the "blue light special" that month and don't correctly size the units. BTW, a bigger unit is not always better either...
 
If everything else checks out OK, you may could add in a reheat coil in the duct to help add a little extra heat to the air temperature to help reduce the delta T
 
Some times idiot contractors just install what was the "blue light special" that month and don't correctly size the units.

My impression is that residential HVAC design and installation is rife with guys that go by old rules-of-thumb or old wives tales and superstitions, or who-the-fawk knows what.

The end result is lots and lots of houses that are too hot upstairs or too cold in the bonus room over the garage, etc.

I'm not saying I'm any better... my next suggestion is to go to Lowe's and buy some 6" insulated flex duct and add another diffuser to the room... see if *that* fixes it... but there's a big difference between that and the "proper" way to answer the question. :lol:
 
Use a CFM meeter, a ductulator, room size, CFM of unit, etc. to see if the unit is OK. Usually they are but if an addition has been built, sometimes the unit is not quite up to the task, or if a bonus room has been finished and added to the conditioned square foot totals, etc. etc. Some times idiot contractors just install what was the "blue light special" that month and don't correctly size the units. BTW, a bigger unit is not always better either...

Hm, CFM meter isn't the kind of thing I have laying around... wonder if one off an old Toyota intake would work? :lol::lol:
Maybe I'll sit down tonight with the measuring tape and ductulator chart just to confirm.
Its all original, they have clearly had some idiot contractors :lol: but as far as this goes the only one (idiot) likely to anything is me in the not-so-far future.
 
I'm not saying I'm any better... my next suggestion is to go to Lowe's and buy some 6" insulated flex duct and add another diffuser to the room... see if *that* fixes it... but there's a big difference between that and the "proper" way to answer the question. :lol:

not a bad Plan B...

But are you saying you'd do that before even insulating all the ductwork?
 
Better to know if your current duct is sufficient before spending the $$$ or time insulating it. But, with a little know-how (or reading on how to do it), I'm sure you can use the ductulator, unit CFM, room size, duct size and distance, etc. and know if you are somewhat close. A few CFM isn't going to make a significant difference. If your CFM is off by 50% or more, you have a problem somewhere.
 
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