Hydro assist mount question

Jman78CJ7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Location
Stoneville NC
Wondering if anyone sees a problem if I mount my ram in the following location. This is on a 609 I have been putting together. The high steer arms already have an extra hole on the driver arm where the PO ran a full hydro setup. Mount is just tacked at the moment to see if the steering would cycle through without interference. Mount on axle would be double shear if no one sees a problem attaching to the high steer arm vs tie rod. Might have to limit my up travel on driver side but I can live with that. Thanks for the opinions.

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It's doable, been done by many. But you better make damn sure the ram doesn't have more stroke than available by the knuckle.
I will have to limit the travel of the ram. It’s a 1.5 8” stroke ram from the surplus center. I have the steering stops setup at 7 9/16” of travel right now. Still trying to figure out internal shaft collars vs external shaft collars.
 
you can shorten the barrel.
 
I will have to limit the travel of the ram. It’s a 1.5 8” stroke ram from the surplus center. I have the steering stops setup at 7 9/16” of travel right now. Still trying to figure out internal shaft collars vs external shaft collars.

I prefer internal limits. However the Surplus Center ram has a large shaft compared to a PSC so the puck would be thin radially.
 
As @Chris_Keziah stated, you have to make sure the ram has the correct (or less) travel than you steering. Also, with the ram being hard mounted on both ends, there is no room for adjustment so you must make sure it's perfectly centered for steering.

Mine is mounted off the diff cover to the knuckle. It works well but it's not perfect. I run through driver side ball joints at least once a year because of it. Basically, I have more travel to the driver's side than the passenger. This causes a ton of stress to the driver ball joints. I will be switching out rams for an adjustable and mounting it to the tie rod with a clamp.

Moral of the story, will it work...yes. Will it work well...yes. Is it the best solution...not my any means.
 
As @Chris_Keziah stated, you have to make sure the ram has the correct (or less) travel than you steering. Also, with the ram being hard mounted on both ends, there is no room for adjustment so you must make sure it's perfectly centered for steering.

Mine is mounted off the diff cover to the knuckle. It works well but it's not perfect. I run through driver side ball joints at least once a year because of it. Basically, I have more travel to the driver's side than the passenger. This causes a ton of stress to the driver ball joints. I will be switching out rams for an adjustable and mounting it to the tie rod with a clamp.

Moral of the story, will it work...yes. Will it work well...yes. Is it the best solution...not my any means.

Also, while at AOP Adam came down and fully compressed the front suspension and busted a fitting on the ram. Easy to prevent, but worth noting.

Is there anything preventing you from mounting it the traditional way to the tie rod? I think that will do you much better.
 
Also, while at AOP Adam came down and fully compressed the front suspension and busted a fitting on the ram. Easy to prevent, but worth noting.

Is there anything preventing you from mounting it the traditional way to the tie rod? I think that will do you much better.

Where his ram is located, and the fact that he's on leafs, I doubt he'll have the same issue with breaking fittings.
 
Personally I’d do the diff cover, and use the tie rod clamp you have still on your tie rod, as a base for the tie rod side mount. That way you can literally let the ram center itself and then just tighten the clamp bolts. Learned that lesson the hard way on my first hydro assist install. Had to cut the tabs off and reweld them like a dummy.
 
I bought the clamp from Barnes because I was originally going to mount it in the more traditional way. Space and location is what was driving me to move it up to the high steer arm. This is my option for mounting on the tie rod. Other orientations something will contact the driver side leaf spring. This is mocked up with the mounting point almost at the inner C. And I would have to get a short 90 fitting to fit under the leaf.
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@Chris_Keziah had to put a bend in the tie rod on Joes Jeep and can post some pics, that may help you gain some clearance. To the knuckle will work though for simplicity.
 
@Chris_Keziah had to put a bend in the tie rod on Joes Jeep and can post some pics, that may help you gain some clearance. To the knuckle will work though for simplicity.

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This pic is at passenger lock, gained a crap ton of room with offset heims and two 3* bends in the tie rod. @Jman78CJ7 if you're in Oak Ridge I don't mind bending a tie rod if you go that route. Truthfully though I'd probably kick the tie rod to the bottom of the knuckle and run the ram over the tie rod mounted to the diff. Instant ram protection and you really don't loose much ground clearance.
 
I would make a couple of tabs that fit on the front of the diff (where the cover would normally be) and make them as long as you can so you get lots of weld surface. Make cardboard templates that follow the raised contours of the housing. That way you'll be able to get the cylinder up and out of harm's way much better.

Like this one I just finished recently
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This is the issue I currently run into when I try to mount to the differential. I guess I could try and get it further towards the passenger side which will bump it out further. This location I’m holding the ram almost next to the housing, ram doesn’t fit under the leaf spring and pitman arm would take out a hydraulic line. Appreciate the input from everyone.
I suppose offset helms would assist me in this location.....?
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This is the issue I currently run into when I try to mount to the differential. I guess I could try and get it further towards the passenger side which will bump it out further. This location I’m holding the ram almost next to the housing, ram doesn’t fit under the leaf spring and pitman arm would take out a hydraulic line. Appreciate the input from everyone.
I suppose offset helms would assist me in this location.....?
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turn it around, rod end towards pumpkin. come off the tube with a mount.
 
D30 in my xj

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Now I didnt think of that! Hmmmm.

Yo can also shorten the stroke rather then limit it.

Cut the cap off the barrel end and shorten the tube. Then cut the heim from the rod and shorten same amount. Be sure to clean the mill scale from inside the barrel before reassembling.
 
Well this is what I came up with for now. I’m a little worried that something will interfere when it flexes. Need to get the Jeep to a point where I can take it to work and use a forklift to check clearances when it’s flexing. Most likely will need to get a flat pitman arm.
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