Hydro assist ram spacers

[YJJPWrangler]

I have this mount.

I have a hydraulic ram with heim joints on either side. Obviously, the heim joint is not as wide as the mount. I'm thinking I need some some spacers but I don't know what kind to get. I've found several that are labeled as misalignment spacers. Would something like this work?

1 to 5/8 High Misalignment Spacer Stainless Steel 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width

Also, on my tie rod mount, the bolt that I have that fits the clamp on style mount(from Ruffstuff) has a smaller diameter then the heim joint. Is there anything I can do to "sleeve" the bolt so it doesn't rattle around in the heim joint?

First time dealing with hydro assist so bear with the questions.

Thanks,

Zack

 

[Chris_Keziah]

The ruffstuff mount is drill and tapped 1/2 fpr a steering stabilizer. I'd suggest fabbing some tabs and welding the similar to this.

Now I'm not sure what ram you have but most will use 5/8" heims which are 3/4" wide. So however wide that bracket is subtract 3/4" and divide by 2 and that is the size width spacer you need (qty 2) No nee for misalignment spacers on a hydro assit ram.

 

[a_kelley]

A stack of washers would likely suffice.. and a sleeve for the bolt diameter if it's loose in the heim or simply drill up the holes to take a larger bolt would be a probably better solution..

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Thanks guys for the answers, makes sense to me. @Chris_Keziah why the tab on the bracket? Is it imperative for the ram to operate in a completely horizontal plane? Right now, my ram is pointed angled slightly to the tie rod. I would think this wouldn't be an issue, but I don't want to bind it up either. Ill look into adding some tabs on mine.

Thanks guys

 

[Jeff B]

Thats fine as long as there is not side load on the rod, this will cause the seals in the gland nut to fail.


I used that ruffstuff tube clamp on mine too.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

@Jeff B Did you run tabs on the mount or straight to ruffstuff clamp?

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Thanks guys for the answers, makes sense to me. @Chris_Keziah why the tab on the bracket? Is it imperative for the ram to operate in a completely horizontal plane? Right now, my ram is pointed angled slightly to the tie rod. I would think this wouldn't be an issue, but I don't want to bind it up either. Ill look into adding some tabs on mine.

Thanks guys

Double shear and there is not a terrible amount of "meat" on the tie rod clamp to get good thread engagement on a 5/8" bolt if you were to single shear it. The ram will more than likely be angled some when the steering is neutral, the most imperative thing to try and get is for the ram to be parallel to the tie rod when fully ext/comp. Just need to remember the ram give zero fucks of things put it it's way, really important to make sure you don't over travel the steering your you'll shuck ball joints and tie rod end often.

 

[Jeff B]

I welded the rod end to the tabs welded to the ruffstuff clamp. I wanted the clamp so I can loosen and adjust the toe if needed.

 

[Jeff B]

really important to make sure you don't over travel the steering your you'll shuck ball joints and tie rod end often.

I'm running an 8" ram on a d30. little to much stroke, I'm just to lazy to shorten the cyl. to fit my needs.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

I bought the ram from @BigSouth. He told me that the ram is limited inside. I agree that the ram doesn't care about anything in its way and would like to get everything mounted up correctly and adjusted correctly before running it and watching ball joints pop etc. I just ordered some stuff from Barnes and once that gets here I can start adjusting as needed.

 

[BigSouth]

I bought the ram from @BigSouth. He told me that the ram is limited inside. I agree that the ram doesn't care about anything in its way and would like to get everything mounted up correctly and adjusted correctly before running it and watching ball joints pop etc. I just ordered some stuff from Barnes and once that gets here I can start adjusting as needed.

Probably worth a phone call down to West Texas Offroad. The way I understand it, the ram is internally limited to the length I measured on my Toyota axle. They can probably walk you through changing that stroke length by changing something inside. Their website tells you how to measure for your length. There’s also a video on YouTube showing you how to measure. Axle on jack stands. Clamp a square to the axle tube extending out across the tie rod. Mark the tie rod at both hard stops. Measure the distance between your marks. That equals stroke length.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

@BigSouth I remember you saying that this ram was limited to 4.5" stroke length. I'll get that measurement tonight. Waiting on a call back from West Texas Offroad. I would think it would be as simple as pulling the cylinder apart and adjusting it.

 

[adamk]

I bought the ram from @BigSouth. He told me that the ram is limited inside. I agree that the ram doesn't care about anything in its way and would like to get everything mounted up correctly and adjusted correctly before running it and watching ball joints pop etc. I just ordered some stuff from Barnes and once that gets here I can start adjusting as needed.

The "limiter" in the ram would just be a spacer. Most rams have a threaded cap that you need a spanner wrench to unscrew. This cap is usually on the end that has the shaft seal. Once it is unscrewed you can pull the shaft out and the spacer should be on the shaft. That spacer can replaced with a shorter/longer one or, if the spacer material allows, it can be turned down on a lathe.

I wish I had taken pictures of the past two rams we've installed. Both of them PSC and both of them limited (1 to 6" and 1 to 7.25"). I just turned some Delrin to lightly press over the shaft and just undersized of the ram bore.

Edit* I found a random pic online showing a spacer installed. It's what he is pointing to.

 

[Jeff B]

That limits the extend, not the retract. you will need a spacer on both sides to limit both directions or you can shorten the barrel.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

That limits the extend, not the retract. you will need a spacer on both sides to limit both directions or you can shorten the barrel.

You don't need two spacers, you just change where the center line of the ram stroke.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

So I measured my turning radius by putting a flat edge on the axle and marking the tie rod lock to lock. I measured right at 6.25”. These are waggy D44s. I’m assuming that’s right. So it sounds like I’ll most likely need to pull apart the cylinder to adjust the stroke length. Another question I have is how do I “center” the ram? Meaning centered with the axles and the gear box? Right now it doesn’t look like it’s centered and will not let me turn left as much as it should(the rod end just gets sucked back into the body of the cylinder)

I feel like I should straighten the knuckles to center and then turn the wheel until the pitman arm lines up with the drag link.

 

[Pless]

I have always added a few of these to rod on the outside and adjusted the ram accordingly.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

So I measured my turning radius by putting a flat edge on the axle and marking the tie rod lock to lock. I measured right at 6.25”. These are waggy D44s. I’m assuming that’s right. So it sounds like I’ll most likely need to pull apart the cylinder to adjust the stroke length. Another question I have is how do I “center” the ram? Meaning centered with the axles and the gear box? Right now it doesn’t look like it’s centered and will not let me turn left as much as it should(the rod end just gets sucked back into the body of the cylinder)

I feel like I should straighten the knuckles to center and then turn the wheel until the pitman arm lines up with the drag link.

What is the stroke length currently? If you got it from @BigSouth off his old yota I bet it is already limited to ~6"

With all the normal steering connected and centered. Take your ram, measure travel, split in half and that is how much shaft will be exposed when the ram is centered. Then mount it where she fits and cycle the steering to check for clearance and travel.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

@Chris_Keziah i could have sworn he told me it was limited to 4.5”. I also need to center my pitman arm as well. That should be as simple as counting the full turns to one side and then divide it by 2 correct? That should also be the correct center of the ram. Then all I need to do is slide my tie rod clamp to the proper place and that should be it?

 

[Chris_Keziah]

@Chris_Keziah i could have sworn he told me it was limited to 4.5”. I also need to center my pitman arm as well. That should be as simple as counting the full turns to one side and then divide it by 2 correct? That should also be the correct center of the ram. Then all I need to do is slide my tie rod clamp to the proper place and that should be it?

Damn that's short if so, you'll need to pull it apart and cut down the spacer they installed if it's that short. Yeah, count steering wheel turns from one lock to the other and go back half.

 

[BigSouth]

Damn that's short if so, you'll need to pull it apart and cut down the spacer they installed if it's that short. Yeah, count steering wheel turns from one lock to the other and go back half.

It’s definitely shorter than 6”. It all depends on the hi-steer arms you use. Shorter arms mean shorter stroke.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Talked to West Texas Offroad today. Super helpful. Told me the spacers they use are basically washers. Easy enough right? I have found that if something is said to be easy, it usually isn't, at least for me...

But it was. Got the ring cap pulled off with a pipe wrench and found this.

Pulled the spacers out and this is what I have now.

Perfect! Thanks guys for all the help!

 

[Scooter402]

 

[87TPIYJ]

That WFO mount should have come with misaligment spacers. At least they sent me a set when I got it from them.