Identify this noise

[rattlecanpaint]

My sons 22re. This squeak to me sounds like possibly a cam bearing. Could also be the EGR valve (Which I'm hoping) but with the curse on this truck I'm leaning towards the cam bearing. What say you?

 

[Jason W.]

Motor mount

 

[rodney eppes]

Motor mount

And that be straight from Mr. Toyota fixer!
Hard for me to make out which sound, as it seems to be running on less than 4 cylinders, & other problems too.
Reminded me of starting up a Winter Cold bull dozer, with a diesel engine.

 

[skyhighZJ]

^this. It is slapping around like it’s at 50-75% running capacity. If you fix the big stuff the little stuff might not sound so bad.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

Sounds like an exhaust leak at egr like air/gases rushing past a gasket.

22r/re doesn’t have bearings in the head, head is the bearing, if the journals get scared it’s head replacement time.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

Motor mount

I thought the jumping around was normal?

 

[CasterTroy]

If you fix the big stuff the little stuff might not sound so bad.

New tuner with Bluetooth is less than $100 these days. Turn it up all ALL the other problems go away

 

[rattlecanpaint]

Yea, I'm guessing the timing chain is wrong as well since I bought one for an 86 engine. It seems like it's out of time by a half a tooth on the distributor. This thing is going to be the death of me.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

New tuner with Bluetooth is less than $100 these days. Turn it up all ALL the other problems go away

NOOOO! I've spent too much on this damn thing already for ALL the problems to go away.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

Sounds like an exhaust leak at egr like air/gases rushing past a gasket.

22r/re doesn’t have bearings in the head, head is the bearing, if the journals get scared it’s head replacement time.

That's what I was thinking about the EGR. Either gasket of the bladder inside. And why I was hoping it was that over the cam bearing/head. Also had someone say possibly the throwout bearing. I'll have another listen tonight if I get home early enough.

 

[skyhighZJ]

That's what I was thinking about the EGR. Either gasket of the bladder inside. And why I was hoping it was that over the cam bearing/head. Also had someone say possibly the throwout bearing. I'll have another listen tonight if I get home early enough.

Throwout bearing is easy one. Push clutch in and out. Change in noise = throwout bearing.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

Throwout bearing is easy one. Push clutch in and out. Change in noise = throwout bearing.

Yea, that's the first thing I'm going to do when I get there. I'm glad it was suggested. I hadn't thought about it. Mostly because it's supposed to be new, but then again, the P.O. wasn't too good with mechanics and may not have even replaced it with the clutch and flywheel that was done. Still kinda hoping it's the EGR valve as that's the easiest fix.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

Sounds like an exhaust leak at egr like air/gases rushing past a gasket.

Winner Winner chicken dinner!!!! EGR valve was slightly loose. Like 1/4 turn on the bolts. Now to the auto parts store to compare timing chain lengths. I'm thinking that's my rough running issue. Gots that lumpy racecar idle.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

Winner Winner chicken dinner!!!! EGR valve was slightly loose. Like 1/4 turn on the bolts. Now to the auto parts store to compare timing chain lengths. I'm thinking that's my rough running issue. Gots that lumpy racecar idle.

let it cool off and adjust the valves cold. .011ex/.007in the possibility of sucking cold air in may have cracked a valve, do the adjustment then run it, see if there was an improvement, then do a compression check if there is no improvement.

has engine been apart before ? If head has been replaced with a reman, I have had valve seats drop out before, one almost all the way out, the other just slightly cocked in the head bore for the seat. Usually where the head has been repaired from cracking on #2-#3 cyl. Pissed me off enough I swore of reman heads and bought new the last one I did one years ago.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

let it cool off and adjust the valves cold. .011ex/.007in the possibility of sucking cold air in may have cracked a valve, do the adjustment then run it, see if there was an improvement, then do a compression check if there is no improvement.

has engine been apart before ? If head has been replaced with a reman, I have had valve seats drop out before, one almost all the way out, the other just slightly cocked in the head bore for the seat. Usually where the head has been repaired from cracking on #2-#3 cyl. Pissed me off enough I swore of reman heads and bought new the last one I did one years ago.

This is a rebuild. The engine was ran with the EGR loose for a grand total of 5 minutes. Probably less. The head was decked and cleaned up but it's got probably 15 minutes of run time since that and the rebuild. The back story is the truck is an 86 with what I'm just recently guessing is an 84 engine. (based on water pump/timing cover/oil pump problems that I've been fighting. I'm pretty sure I installed a new timing chain that was for an 86 (But metal backed guides that the PO gave me with the truck.) {(I believe they made the block slightly taller in 85?)} The PO was semi mechanically inclined but should not be wrenching on anything. He put a clutch in it but only had 2 correct bell housing bolts so he just used 2 others that were half the thickness needed and way too long so he just put some nuts on there to space it out so it could be (sort of) tightened down. That's all that was holding it together. The wiring was cobble jobbed together in places, had been on fire in others and had a couple of new fuel injector connectors installed. (4 New injectors as well). My son bought the truck knowing it needed a head gasket but it has all the options including leather and some rare chrome trim along the rocker panels. So it was good bones but needed some work. It turned into a lot of work unfortunately.

 

[Blkvoodoo]

This is a rebuild. The engine was ran with the EGR loose for a grand total of 5 minutes. Probably less. The head was decked and cleaned up but it's got probably 15 minutes of run time since that and the rebuild. The back story is the truck is an 86 with what I'm just recently guessing is an 84 engine. (based on water pump/timing cover/oil pump problems that I've been fighting. I'm pretty sure I installed a new timing chain that was for an 86 (But metal backed guides that the PO gave me with the truck.) {(I believe they made the block slightly taller in 85?)} The PO was semi mechanically inclined but should not be wrenching on anything. He put a clutch in it but only had 2 correct bell housing bolts so he just used 2 others that were half the thickness needed and way too long so he just put some nuts on there to space it out so it could be (sort of) tightened down. That's all that was holding it together. The wiring was cobble jobbed together in places, had been on fire in others and had a couple of new fuel injector connectors installed. (4 New injectors as well). My son bought the truck knowing it needed a head gasket but it has all the options including leather and some rare chrome trim along the rocker panels. So it was good bones but needed some work. It turned into a lot of work unfortunately.

‘84 and earlier had the rounded valve cover and double row chain, ‘85 newer especially EFI had the squared off valve cover “squares and pears” on the exhaust and intake ports for EFI. The heads can be swapped but not without other internal parts changing as well. I have forgotten a lot about these engines over the years.
If you want something to build I have a good core motor still, from an ‘85, had a light knock, may have been wrist pin may have been rod, just pulled it and put it under the bench where it’s been sitting for years. Also have an original unmolested timing cover.

 

[rattlecanpaint]

The valve cover is squared off and it has a single row timing chain (That the PO changed but used 1 metal backed guide and 1 plastic) but the timing cover is the older style with the water pump that goes strait across the top as opposed to the one that had the dip. Also the oil pump I bought had a longer snout than the original and when I tightened down the balancer it would push in the front main seal and leak like a sieve. I wouldn't put it past The PO to have put the newer valve cover on the older engine. I remember the exhaust ports being pear shaped for secondary air but don't remember if the intake ports were.

When I bought the truck that became the 4 runner in my avatar (I should really update that) I put a timing chain on it and the one I bought the guides didn't fit. An old Toyota mechanic at the shop I worked at said they had made the block taller in 85 and that my 84 truck was probably built late enough that it got the newer engine. (Granted this was almost 20 years ago now so my memory might be a bit fuzzy)

 

[rattlecanpaint]

Found this on Yota Tech. I was wrong about the deck height. It goes the other way. They made it shorter. I'd bet dollars to donuts that my chain is too long.

Engine Block Identification

1975 - 1980 20R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 88.5mm - 3.484\"
Domed Pistons

1981 - 1984 22R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Domed Pistons

1985 - 1995 22R-22RE \"Laser Block\"
Deck Height 11.090\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Dished Piston

 

[Blkvoodoo]

Found this on Yota Tech. I was wrong about the deck height. It goes the other way. They made it shorter. I'd bet dollars to donuts that my chain is too long.

Engine Block Identification

1975 - 1980 20R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 88.5mm - 3.484\"
Domed Pistons

1981 - 1984 22R Block
Deck Height 11.280\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Domed Pistons

1985 - 1995 22R-22RE \"Laser Block\"
Deck Height 11.090\"
Stock Bore 92.0mm - 3.622\"
Dished Piston

First off the “Lazer Block” used a single row chain, the early engines were double row, you’d know that right away. Second, a chain too long wouldn’t run, not only would the tensioner not take up the slack, the link count would send the crank/cam timing off after a few revolutions.

Are you one tooth off on the chain Install? That is a possibility. It may run, just no power and could have other symptoms. Could also be why you can’t get any timing on the dizzy.

It’s why you always rotate the crank 2 revolutions and recheck your timing marks on crank and cam, the bright chain links will move a tooth over every revolution, this is to not develop a specific wear pattern on the timing components.

 

[RatLabGuy]

I vaguely remember this issue of different deck heights coming up before once in discussions on the old ORC forum. IIRC there is a special head gasket that is thicker you can buy to functionally add that height to teh block so everything lines up.

Also - x2 on checking the bright timing link and ensuring its in the right position

 

[rattlecanpaint]

First off the “Lazer Block” used a single row chain, the early engines were double row, you’d know that right away. Second, a chain too long wouldn’t run, not only would the tensioner not take up the slack, the link count would send the crank/cam timing off after a few revolutions.

Are you one tooth off on the chain Install? That is a possibility. It may run, just no power and could have other symptoms. Could also be why you can’t get any timing on the dizzy.

It’s why you always rotate the crank 2 revolutions and recheck your timing marks on crank and cam, the bright chain links will move a tooth over every revolution, this is to not develop a specific wear pattern on the timing components.

So I just pulled the valve cover and rotated the engine over. The bright link moves a third of the way around the cam gear every rotation. But lands back exactly on the timing mark every 3rd rotation. I marked the bright link and a link on another mark on the cam gear. You can see them both in this pic.