I'm shitting my 7.3 pants. Help/advice needed

ProbablyBroke

ProbablyBroke

does not torque to spec
Joined
Nov 7, 2012
Location
Reidsville
Since it's been getting below 40 degrees the last few months, I have been avoiding driving my 1995 7.3 f250 because it was leaking about an 8 inch spot of engine oil on warm up. Leak was coming from oil cooler. I did the research, and ordered the big o rings and gaskets to do the cooler.

Today I pulled the oil cooler and cleaned everything. The oil pressure relief valve slid out, which I wasn't prepared for (it is not c clipped version). So I decided I would look at the schematic and install everything tomorrow. Well, the oil pressure relief valve isn't the issue. My issue is, I have been driving this truck WITHOUT an oil filter bypass valve. I wasn't aware. I have put 4K miles on it in a year and who knows how long the bypass valve was missing prior to my purchase. My understanding is that essentially, my oil has never been filtered.

A new oil cooler housing is 344$.

Does anyone know where to source just the bypass valve components? Does anyone have a good oil cooler housing? What steps would you take to ensure the truck isn't doomed?

@mysterync @Tim C @frankenyoter
Any and all suggestions welcomed
 
i wish I could help you out man. I just don't have the experience. You figure anything out?
 
If you're on Facebook check out some of the 7.3 and OBS pages. Tons of people on there and lots of trucks being parted out. Wish I could be more help.


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I ended up forking over the 290$ for a new oil cooler housing with the updated circlip retainers and valves. I was whining about the 100 dollars paid for gaskets and o rings, which was just an after thought once it was all said and done. It feels good to have done it right.

IF YOU HAVE AN OBS FORD 7.3, CHECK TO BE SURE THAT THE OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE IS STILL IN PLACE DURING YOUR NEXT OIL CHANGE! If you can stick your finger in the hole next where your oil filter screws on, your truck is not filtering oil.
 
ProbablyBroke said:
I ended up forking over the 290$ for a new oil cooler housing with the updated circlip retainers and valves. I was whining about the 100 dollars paid for gaskets and o rings, which was just an after thought once it was all said and done. It feels good to have done it right.

IF YOU HAVE AN OBS FORD 7.3, CHECK TO BE SURE THAT THE OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE IS STILL IN PLACE DURING YOUR NEXT OIL CHANGE! If you can stick your finger in the hole next where your oil filter screws on, your truck is not filtering oil.
Click to expand...

Where'd you order it from? I'll be checking mine next oil change for sure.


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ProbablyBroke said:
I ended up forking over the 290$ for a new oil cooler housing with the updated circlip retainers and valves. I was whining about the 100 dollars paid for gaskets and o rings, which was just an after thought once it was all said and done. It feels good to have done it right.

IF YOU HAVE AN OBS FORD 7.3, CHECK TO BE SURE THAT THE OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE IS STILL IN PLACE DURING YOUR NEXT OIL CHANGE! If you can stick your finger in the hole next where your oil filter screws on, your truck is not filtering oil.
Click to expand...

Do you know if the Super Duty 7.3's are the same way?

I have found it's very easy to spend a few hundred bucks on parts and not get buy a few things. I need to redo the turbo pedestal in mine and delete the ebpv, just hasn't felt like dropping the money to do so.



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My understanding is the Super Dutys came with updated housing, as did some of the later OBS. The bad housings use 4 dimples in the aluminum to retain the valve opposed to the updated circlip model. The above picture is what you should see when you change your filter if you have the updated housing or a SD. There is a spring, a washer and a small disc in there, all retained by the circlip. If your missing that valve or find a spring in your oil filter, I'd suggest buying the part number in the other picture.

I'm going to run this oil for about 3k miles and then send off to Blackstone Labs just to put my mind at ease or make me a nervous wreck. @Chris_Keziah
 
Alright, new problem. This time it's my buddies 1997 7.3 f-250. He and I have been beating our heads against this all weekend. We've searched the usual diesel forums. He just bought the truck not running.
It has two new batteries, a freshly cleaned and resealed fuel bowl, a good starter, a brand new lift pump, new CPS, two full tanks of diesel, new fuel filter, unobstructed intake.

He has weak fuel pressure at the fuel bowl schrader valve after cranking for 10 seconds. Getting 11 volts and dropping on the glow plug relay while cranking. No start. No smoke at all from exhaust.

We both know that there are plenty of things that can cause a 7.3 no start condition. Just looking for insight on the next step for diagnosis and trouble shooting, without throwing anymore parts at it to see if they stick.
 
Your looking at potential gpr (especially with only 11v), have you checked glowplugs themselves? The starters on these are also known to get weak, theyll still work and start the truck, but if its cold or if there is an issue wont turn them hard enough.

Fuel pressure wise, sounds like you may have partially clogged screens in the tank..

Hit it with a LITTLE starting fluid, doesnt take much to get them to hit over. See if itll run fine. If it does, gpr and glow plugs.

Thats a lot of variables, sorry lol. It takes an army of different things all being up to par for these things to start



Edit:: sorry didnt see the part about the starter
 
redneckjeep87 said:
Hit it with a LITTLE starting fluid
Click to expand...

The better way to do that is put a little gas on a rag and cover it over the intake boot somehow (Kind of like putting a nylon on the end of a vacuum cleaner snout). Diesels don't seem to bang over as hard with gas on a rag, and I'm sure he and his buddy doesn't want to bend a rod.

If that doesn't work, throw a hair drier into the intake boot to preheat the intake. If its got enough fuel it should fire right up.
 
How's the oil? Is there oil in the HPOP? Tach moving while cranking? Do you have access to a good code reader? There are free apps for your phone if you don't. Oil pressure may be too low to start, RPMs may be too low to start. Like you said, there are plenty of things that can cause a no start condition.


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If you're close to Stanfield I may be able to swing by with my scanner to get an idea of what she's doing.

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ProbablyBroke said:
Well, we tried the gas rag. Heard her fire for a moment. Pulled the IDM outta my 1995 and plugged it in to his. Fired right up. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and thanks for the offer @Chris_Keziah.

Is anyone using the Torque Pro app on their obs?
Click to expand...

I use the FORScan app for my OBS with an OBD2 wifi adapter I got off Amazon. Haven't tried the torque pro.


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I use Torquepro and Dashcommand on my stuff. Torque has a great UI for setting up dashboards to view while driving (so it's easier to fiddle with while rolling), and also instantly warns of upcoming codes that haven't been set, reads them out to you, and will read out already set codes after the dashboard screen has been running. I've found it VERY handy for troubleshooting.

Dash command has a larger pool of PIDs to look at, but you must purchase a license for each model(and year of that model) to get the PID package for that vehicle. Like $5-10/EA.

Totally worth it.
 
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