Im thinking about trading my jeep..

Macdaddy4738

Macdaddy4738

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Im looking to lift it and such, and im just not sure the 4 cylinder could handle it. Im thinking it might be more worth my while to look for something already lifted or perhaps just a newer vehicle entirely..whether it be a car or something (gas isnt cheap :lol:)

Considering im currently driving to Statesville every day from Hickory, its getting a little pricy at 17 MPG...

what do you guys think I could swing for this in a trade?

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2603792400084713332jFTbkL
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2460635440084713332qNHhRk

It has a a bit of surface rust on the underside (and a bit on the front fenders, nothing through the paint yet, just bubbles) The Jeep spent a good time down at the NC beach and picked up the salt air (as well as obviously being driven on the beach..)

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2299298370084713332vSpInG
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2299298370084713332vSpInG

It has a new clutch, new radiator, new alternator, new battery , new O2 Sensor (8k miles old that is..)

Also has a 6 speaker bar, as well as a CD player and aux jack for an ipod and such. It came with some tacky neoprene seat covers (with flowers and stuff) and Id be willing to throw that in. The mini center counsel is gone, it now has a full counsel. The top is a Bestop, tinted windows, and is a little less then a year old. It has 148650 on it (give or take about 30 miles) It desperatly needs new tires, im trying to hold out and get them with the lift If I decide to go through with it..

So basically im just kind of feeling around out there to see what people think would be a good trade for the Jeep. See my few other threads about various other problems (most importantly, death wobble :rolleyes:)
 
Its really not worth much.
But I like ya, so how about $500, and I ll even pick it up tonight. :driver:
 
Kbb.com will give you a good idea of what you can get for it. You'll find pricing for retail, private sale and trade there. I'd look it up, but I don't see a year model in your original post.

If putting gas in it is a problem, plan on milage going down when you lift and go with bigger tires. Even with proper gearing, mine averages 10-12 mpg with 35s. I think it was around 11-14 with 33s.

Is the Jeep paid for? If so, if you can swing it, you should consider picking up a beater that gets decent milage for daily driving and keep the Jeep. Having a second vehicle to drive to work is a nice option.

Jeff
 
Id like to get a new vehicle, but since this is a summer job it isnt too important right now. Last summer I would come with my dad, but I have to be here at 7 now, so he cant drive me.

In reality, gas miliage aint no big thing for me, so the lift isnt really going to hurt me THAT much, since I will be getting it sometime after school starts (and I really dont drive that much when im up there)

It isnt paid for yet. We took a loan out to pay for it (since it IS mine, however college kind of took over and i havent been able to make a payment on it in a while. My dad has been picking up the slack, so in turn, after I graduate college I can tack another 6k or so on to my loans :fuck-you:)

Im just worried about how the 4cyl will perform with having to push 33 inch tires more than anything. Really, its not a bad vehicle. The death wobble has got me a little worried though.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
Im just worried about how the 4cyl will perform with having to push 33 inch tires more than anything. Really, its not a bad vehicle. The death wobble has got me a little worried though.
Click to expand...

The key will be proper gearing. I've seen plenty of people with 33s and a 4 cylinders do just fine with the proper setup. You can always build this one that way for now, then get a vehicle with a bigger engine when you're done with school and start making the big bucks. :D

I'm sure a decent shop could help you with the DW, if you've tried everything else.

Good call on taking care of college first. There's plenty of time for the fun stuff later. You'll thank yourself later for taking the time to do school right.

J
 
How many miles a day are you doing now? 50? 100?
Lets do some math and see what the "value point" here is.
 
from my house to statesville, its 30 miles each way (60 for the day)

300 miles a week, plus say another 25ish for travel after work..

Meaning i basically have to fill up 2 times a week, the beginning of the week (monday for example) then i can probably get to thursday and have to fill up again. I got about 101 miles worth of gas to mess around with for the weekend. I dont drive much over the weekend so i could get a day's worth out of it on monday..

basically im filling up twice per week, at roughly 40 dollars a tank. 80 bucks a week. Considering I make about 300 bucks a week, thats a pretty good chunk. I loose essentially a week of pay in a month to gas :rolleyes:
 
There was a 2wd Toy truck in the for sale section. you would have that paid for in gas savings alone over the next 3 months.
 
so now it's math time. Just talking out loud here.
325 miles a week. For how long? 10 weeks? maybe you'll take a road trip sometime over the summer. If 10 weeks, lets say 3,500 miles we're talking about.
3500 miles @17 mpg = 206 gallongs
At 3.15/gallon, thats a total expense of $648.

Now, lets say you get a different vehicle that gets, what, 28 mpg? That's a 64% increase.
@ 28 mpg, cost now is $450. You have saved $200.
@ 34 mpg, cost is $370, saved $280.

Now here's the magic question. IF you plan for this to be only a 10-week problem, how can you get 28 mpg for only $200, or $34 for $280?
Answer - good luck. You can't.
What you're talking about is only a $20 a week difference in coist (for now). Skip a pizza and beer.

Now if you plan on sacing $$ over the LONG term - then a cheap-ass DD is the way to go. Might be able to get something for $1000. But remember it will take you >7k to work off the price difference. As a student who never drives - not worth it IMO, esp once you consider extra tag fees, insurrance etc.

Solution: get a better job closer to home.
 
Go with the 33's, leave it in 4th gear on the highway and let it ride.
:driver:

Back in 99 during my senior year at ECU I ordered a set of 33x10.50 BFG AT's to run as the street tire on my 4 banger YJ. I rambled around to NY, OH, FL, and even Tellico on those tires, all while in 4th gear on the hwy. The stock driveline did fine and my gas milage didn't suffer too bad with those skinny light tires. Oh, and I got over 40K miles out of those tires too.

Just my 2 cents anyway.
 
Seeing Red Again said:
Go with the 33's, leave it in 4th gear on the highway and let it ride.
:driver:
Back in 99 during my senior year at ECU I ordered a set of 33x10.50 BFG AT's to run as the street tire on my 4 banger YJ. I rambled around to NY, OH, FL, and even Tellico on those tires, all while in 4th gear on the hwy. The stock driveline did fine and my gas milage didn't suffer too bad with those skinny light tires. Oh, and I got over 40K miles out of those tires too.
Just my 2 cents anyway.
Click to expand...

Macdaddy4738 said:
ive got a 5th gear too :lol:
Click to expand...

He is aware of that. He is telling you to stay out of it.
 
Because even at high speeds, you will be running very low RPMs in 5th gear. The tranny is geared with the intention of a certain size tire. By increasing the tire by, say, 20%, you shift the distance to-rpm ratio down by the same amount.
Lugging the motor on low RPMs is very hard on it and yeilds you worse MPGs. Only way to fix this is to regear the axles... which by the sounds of it is outside of your budget.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Because even at high speeds, you will be running very low RPMs in 5th gear. The tranny is geared with the intention of a certain size tire. By increasing the tire by, say, 20%, you shift the distance to-rpm ratio down by the same amount.
Lugging the motor on low RPMs is very hard on it and yeilds you worse MPGs. Only way to fix this is to regear the axles... which by the sounds of it is outside of your budget.
Click to expand...

hm...i didnt think of that.

How much is it to regear anyways?
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
hm...i didnt think of that.
How much is it to regear anyways?
Click to expand...

It's been a while since I had mine done, but this should give you a ball park. You're going to need the gears and install kits for each axle (roughly $200-$250 per axle). You may or may not need carriers, depending on your current gearing and where you're going (around $100 per axle). Gear oil and other general supplies (say $15-30 per axle depending on your oil).

Then you've got labor. IMHO, between the tools and expertise needed, this is not a job you want to try yourself. Poorly setup gears can cause major issues, not the least of which is wasting money on the list above, by having to do the job again. I honestly don't know the going rate for gearing, but I'd guess in the neighborhood of $200 per axle as a ball park.

As other folks have indicated, you can get by without gearing. I ran for over a year with 33s and stock 3.07 gears with my automatic. I learned patience, especially on long hills. :D I thought it was one of the best investments I made when I did have it done, but it's certainly something you can get by without doing, especially with a manual tranny.

Jeff
 
RatLabGuy said:
Because even at high speeds, you will be running very low RPMs in 5th gear. The tranny is geared with the intention of a certain size tire. By increasing the tire by, say, 20%, you shift the distance to-rpm ratio down by the same amount.
Lugging the motor on low RPMs is very hard on it and yeilds you worse MPGs. Only way to fix this is to regear the axles... which by the sounds of it is outside of your budget.
Click to expand...

OO interesting. How much of a regear is needed to fix this? I have 4.10's and i'm running 35's. On the way to Boone and back i usually am in 5th gear at anywhere from 1000-1500 rpms, sometimes over 2 when i'm feeling friskey :driver:
Should I leave it in 4th? or does my gearing make up for it?
 
Reed said:
OO interesting. How much of a regear is needed to fix this? I have 4.10's and i'm running 35's. On the way to Boone and back i usually am in 5th gear at anywhere from 1000-1500 rpms, sometimes over 2 when i'm feeling friskey :driver:
Should I leave it in 4th? or does my gearing make up for it?
Click to expand...

good lord thats low. Im usually in third at 3k or there abouts.

I tried the 4th gear deal today, as well as sticking 100+ feet behind semi's (caught a mythbusters episode last night, boy can they cut your gas miliage down!) It seemed to help..
 
Back
Top