in cab winch control

I'm sorry, I 'm not seeing advantage of the two-switch solution. Why do you need a 2nd switch to "arm" it? Why not just have a single momentary non/off/on switch like CatFish is talking about?
To me, fewer switches to worry about and less holes drilledi n the dash is better.
I'm looking to do this myself now as well.

There are 2 reasons.
1) As stated bump prevention
2) In the rare case a switch contact gets welded closed, you can kill power before your winch burns itself up.
 
Lowes hw has the on-off-on momentary i have one in my dash just not wired in (yet). Will also run it through an on/off switch to enable/kill it..

switch was ~$5 in the electrical section..

I was at Lowe's yesterday and could not find these switches to save my life.
Where are they? With the other electrical stuff? All I coudl find were 120v wall switches..?

On another note - what size/gauge wire is best to use between the battery - solenoid - winch? Is 2 gauge necessary? It's good distance for me w/ the solenoids under the hood, so it adds up fast.
 
2 gauge is probably safe. If you have some numbers off the winch (ampacity) or a model and length from batt to solenoid on your app, its pretty easy to calc
 
2ga wire will be good, but don't go with cheap, stiff wire like I did. It's hell to work with. Oh, and I also run 2 switches (power in/out and main power) for my in-cab controls.
 
Not any Radio Snatch near me. Believe me, I've dug through the bins. Most Radio Snacks are getting rid of the parts bins in favor of RC cars and cell phone shit. Mine has one switch/connector tower, and one fuse/bulb tower. Pretty sad. It's getting hard to find ICs and components there.
 
Electric supply places. Also, just because they don'thave it in the store does not mean they can't get it. My son works at the RS here in Morganton. I will have him check to see if they can get it and get a part number.
 
two switches, on off and a momentary on off on and a disable switch for the exterior winch remote plug. this one will be located under the hood

I don't want some stupid kid pulling my cable out and wrapping it around to my rear bumper and then taking a paper clip and activating my three wire winch.

my winch works whether or not my ignition switch is on or not.
so I am installing a disable switch between the remotes plug in point and the solenoids. to disable the remote switch all together until needed.

marine grade switches under the hood and in the cab just for overkill.

I saw a picture once of a truck that had his cable slung over the top of his truck and hooked to his back bumper and the switch activated. this messed his truck up really bad.

hood, windsheild, grill, cab, back window, tail gate, bed, and rear bumper. just from a stupid vandal
 
Went to Radio Shack today in Morganton.
The switch you are looking for is part # 275-709
DPDT(double pole double throw) rated 20A at 12VDC Center off. Spring loaded, will not lock in on position.
Price was $4.90 after tax
 
Went to Radio Shack today in Morganton.
The switch you are looking for is part # 275-709
DPDT(double pole double throw) rated 20A at 12VDC Center off. Spring loaded, will not lock in on position.
Price was $4.90 after tax

Good news! However, I don't know if the apes at my Radio Snatch would know what to do with a part number. :shaking: "Uhh, is that your Verizon account number?"
 
No just forgot the last digit in his phone number.....
 
i had a lift solenoid on the front of my lawnmower and the factory switch went out and i didnt wanna spend 120 for a new one so i used a window switch and wires out of my old chevy truck, works great, and the chrome looks kool on a lifted lawnmower
 
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