International Scout people - anyone on NC4x4?

Lorenzo816

Lorenzo816

CTB
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Location
Cabarrus County, NC
Hey guys, trying to find some local knowledge.
I'm on the binderplanet and a bunch of FB groups but it would be nice to have someone around here with some knowledge I could chat with.
I picked up a 71 IH Scout 2 weekends ago.
It has the 345 and is sitting on 35's, 4.10s (I think!) and stock axles.
Has usual rust but it aint bad really.

Anyone know something about the IHs, just holler at me.
Thx
 

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Also don't have anything to add other than I really like Scouts and looked at a bunch before I found my Scrambler. Congrats! I'm a little envious :)
 
I've got some knowledge on them ;) But I'm not exactly local to you...

Binderplanet is a great source of knowledge for them.

They really aren't hard to work on, With most everything on them being parts you would find on a Jeep vehicle of the same era, they have Borg Warner (Manual) or Chrysler Torqueflite (Automatic) transmissions, Dana Transfer cases (Should be a D20 in yours), Dana Axles, GM steering and ignition parts. The only thing I've ever had problems getting were Fly Wheels and Air Filters!

The International 345 isn't anything unusual, and it's going to have an era typical carb on it, The only weird thing about them is that you time them off cylinder #8 instead of #1

Most every part you could need is available from Rock Auto, or local Parts houses.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions at all, I'll be happy to answer them.
 
zuke said:
I've got some knowledge on them ;) But I'm not exactly local to you...

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions at all, I'll be happy to answer them.
Click to expand...

Thanks.
First question I've been having a heck of a time tracking down is oil.
I've heard about Grade 1 and something about older dino oils with more Zinc.
What do you run?

I need to change the oil pan gasket and this is a good time as any to ensure I have good oil in it.
I just scored a complete service manual from ebay for $17! That's a ninety dollar book heck yea.

I got some wiring gremlins on the turn signals to chase down and probably need to get wipers on it to pass inspection. :(
One more thing I saw right away is why is the damn trans cooler lines not connected?! ungh.
It runs though! And it stops!
But it be a lot better with some disc brakes.
 
Rotella, Like Orange Says above.. Same oil i use in my Scouts. It has the higher zinc content that helps the guides last longer. The 71 already has hardened valve seats, so there isn't a need for lead additives or substitutes in the gas, but the extra zinc in Rotella will help all the 'oiled' parts. You'll also benefit if you can run Ethanol free gas in it, as all the fuel line is from pre-ethanol days, and will deteriorate those lines, there is a particularly long Nylon line that runs from the gas tank to the fuel pump that will dry out from it, I usually replace that one with steel.

Great deal on the service Manual!

On both the turn signals and wipers, Make sure they have a good path to ground, Number one cause of gremlins on a Scout II. Also the wiper (And headlight) switches can get dust in them, a good spray through with electrical contact cleaner can help. The grease in the wiper motor can get hard over time, If you'er up for a project, tearing that motor down, cleaning it out, and putting new grease on the bearings/bushings can help it go much smoother and faster.

Do you have a Dana 30, or 44 in the front? stock was a 30, but a lot ended up with 44's as options... If you can find the knuckles from a later model disc brake axle, you can swap all that stuff over to your current axle. Of course, if you can find a whole later axle with discs on it already, that's even easier, but you'll probably have a tough time finding one with both 4.10 gears and dis brakes.

On a 71, if it's still got the original distributor, that means it's got Ignition Points, (Oh Joy!), And that is likely why it runs like crap... Replace the points and re-gap them and it will help a lot. But if you can run down a later year Prestolite Distributor, that will relieve that issue. If you can't find a Prestolite, see if you can find a Pertronix Igniter or a Crane fireball ignition for it..

Truthfully, if you're only going to use it as a weekend fun type vehicle though, points aren't that bad, you just have to get used to setting them, and burnishing the points (Run an emery board through the contacts) every year or so.
 
Oh, the tranny cooler lines... Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised if the Cooler in the radiator is clogged, leaks, or isn't present... the original Manual tranny radiator didn't have one.

If you can't get it working with the original, I'd add a B&M Auxilary cooler, and forget the one in the radiator... but I wouldn't not have any...
 
I had a 79, probably my favorite vehicle I've owned, I did bad things to it because I didn't know any better at the time. Try to find axles out of a 76-80 4 cylinder, 4.10 disc brake. There heavy, mine used to try to find the bottom of a mud hole! Other than bad things I did to it (the only cause for breakage) it never let me down, 3 years as a daily driver. Pay attention to RPMs, it's not a chevy small block, it's a bus engine, don't overrev it they blow headgaskets!
 
Blue stp is high in zinc also. They also sell some zddp additive but stp is way cheaper and just as good. I usually sub 2 bottles for 1qt oil. ($3.20 or so for a 16oz)
 
thanks for all the feedback.
So far I have serviced the front drum brakes, plugged and routed some vent lines from the gas tank - boy that thing stunk!
I got this little push button that fits the hole where the cigarette lighter was and gonna use it for a horn button. This is temporary until I can get the steering wheel horn tracked down.
Figure I'm gonna need to honk at people since I can't stop on a dime. Plus so many Fn people drive texting... we're all guilty of it.
I've got some basic maintenance stuff on the way. Plugs, filters, oil and light bulbs. Two of the signal lights and turns don't work, so gonna need that too let people know what they heck I'm doing on the road.
The Oil I scored free shipping on eBay. valvoline racing oil for pushrod motors, 10w30 and says high zinc on it! I been putting rislone in my Isuzu so that was an option too. But this deal I couldn't pass up. Ended up being like $36 to my door.
After I get the basics done, I'm gonna have to stop the leaks underneath. The case leaks, the pumpkin and the oil pan.
Then onto some body rust. Oh Boy.

I'll get on the disc conversion or axle swap later and also figure out the trany cooler issues for sure!
THanks again fellas.
I'll post some pics if anyone wants to follow.
 
Looks like I just became a scout guy. Just got this one. 1980 345 auto, factory A/C and cruise. Never been around one until now. My dad used to have one in the 70s but I'm not sure if it was an 800 or a Scout II. I'm still trying to decide what I want to do with it.
918c9dfadfae6001f42db4008c940dde.jpg


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Whoa!! That’s a nice scout. Not a bicentennial but looks similar. It’s a scout 2 and most likely since it’s an 80 has the Dana 300 instead of the older style cases.
Should jump on some of the FB groups. Lots real time discussion there as opposed to binder which has become more encyclopedic lately.
there’s also Seba which has a meet in Gso SC every January if you want to head down 26 and meet some real knowledgeable folks face to face.
 
Lorenzo816 said:
Whoa!! That’s a nice scout. Not a bicentennial but looks similar. It’s a scout 2 and most likely since it’s an 80 has the Dana 300 instead of the older style cases.
Should jump on some of the FB groups. Lots real time discussion there as opposed to binder which has become more encyclopedic lately.
there’s also Seba which has a meet in Gso SC every January if you want to head down 26 and meet some real knowledgeable folks face to face.
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Thank you. And thanks for the info. It's been painted once and they went for the 1976 look. The stripes are painted on. I haven't checked the t-case yet but I'm hoping it's a 300. It's pretty solid but it definitely needs a tailgate and floor pans. I'll look into the event in January. I'd like to take it down there. Do you still have yours?

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Yes sir. Funny this time last year I was over my head up to my eyeballs in rewiring it. I bypassed the ammeter and put a jumper on the starter added a solenoid on the firewall. Old school stuff.
Come to find out my 71 has a swapped IH 392 in it! The line set ticket says it had a 304 and manual to begin with but somewhere between Arkansas and Georgia it got swapped to the 6.4 and 727.
I found a disc 30 geared 3.73 which matches what I got and haven’t put it in yet.
Let me find some pics
 
Here’s a few pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wv67mL13BfgCpy1VA
I’m warning you now on the old school bulk head connectors and heat soaked starters these trucks suffer from. Know that the charging wire runs through the dash to the ammeter to the fuse panel to the battery so recommend you carry a fire extinguisher unless you know it’s good.
The wiring schematics are daunting but way easier than canbus systems.
Also one last thing if it drives like shit gets some 2-4° shims for the front axle or go ahead and pay for a cut and turn. There’s plenty of rebuilders/resto dudes around us I bet are filled up if you wanna throw some money at it or do you wanna just drive it?
I haven’t cut the floors out of mine yet or fixed a few body issues. It’s just too much fun to drive as is!
 
Lorenzo816 said:
Yes sir. Funny this time last year I was over my head up to my eyeballs in rewiring it. I bypassed the ammeter and put a jumper on the starter added a solenoid on the firewall. Old school stuff.
Come to find out my 71 has a swapped IH 392 in it! The line set ticket says it had a 304 and manual to begin with but somewhere between Arkansas and Georgia it got swapped to the 6.4 and 727.
I found a disc 30 geared 3.73 which matches what I got and haven’t put it in yet.
Let me find some pics
Click to expand...
I haven't checked my gear ratio yet. I'm hoping for 3.73 or 4.10 but it'll prob end up being something like a 3.07. I've only had it about a week. Gotta get the fluids changed and get some fresh gas in it. It runs but the gas is old and it needs a tune up. Do you know if they switched to an electronic distributor at some point or well they all points?

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Lorenzo816 said:
Here’s a few pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wv67mL13BfgCpy1VA
I’m warning you now on the old school bulk head connectors and heat soaked starters these trucks suffer from. Know that the charging wire runs through the dash to the ammeter to the fuse panel to the battery so recommend you carry a fire extinguisher unless you know it’s good.
The wiring schematics are daunting but way easier than canbus systems.
Also one last thing if it drives like shit gets some 2-4° shims for the front axle or go ahead and pay for a cut and turn. There’s plenty of rebuilders/resto dudes around us I bet are filled up if you wanna throw some money at it or do you wanna just drive it?
I haven’t cut the floors out of mine yet or fixed a few body issues. It’s just too much fun to drive as is!
Click to expand...
I'll definitely look at the charge wiring. The guy I got it from drove it to my house so I've already saw the heat soaked starter issue. From what I've read, the 80s had 2-3 degrees of caster on the front axle, unlike all the previous years that were at 0. It seems to drive pretty good. I want to fix the floor and front body mounts before I put a cage in it. Still don't have a plan together. The old man I'm slowly becoming says keep it stock, but the rest of me says LS swap and tons.

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Hurdt299 said:
I'll definitely look at the charge wiring. The guy I got it from drove it to my house so I've already saw the heat soaked starter issue. From what I've read, the 80s had 2-3 degrees of caster on the front axle, unlike all the previous years that were at 0. It seems to drive pretty good. I want to fix the floor and front body mounts before I put a cage in it. Still don't have a plan together. The old man I'm slowly becoming says keep it stock, but the rest of me says LS swap and tons.

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Click to expand...
I’m steer you away from that. I saw one recently go for 15k redone decent but not mad money resto and just got resold for 29k.
 
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