Is a stud and cone washer stronger than a wheel lug bolt?

rattlecanpaint

rattlecanpaint

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Location
Winston Salem
Since I got back from my last trip to URE I've noticed the front tires would immediately start squalling under ANY braking. Drove it to work today and noticed it was all over the road so when I pulled in the shop I noticed I'd broke the two front studs on the drivers trunnion bearing and one of the remaining ones was loose. Kinda scary since I (unknowingly) drove it back from URE like that.:eek: I was originally going to just stick a couple of bolts in it to get me the 1.5 miles home but couldn't find any the right thread pitch. (Damn Germans) One of the guys was rummaging through his tool box for me looking to see what he had and he came across wheel lug bolts that are the right length, thread pitch and size. They are even tapered the same angle as the cone washers! I figured it was definitely safe enough to get me home but do you think they'd be strong enough to replace the studs and cone washers permanently? Tell me what you think. In the pic, lug bolts are left front and right rear.
 

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My gut says the cone washers are going to be better. The problem with a tapered nut or a bolt with a tapered head is they'll have a lot of friction on the tapered part as you're tightening them down, so it's tough to know that you got it tight enough. Cone washer with a nut is basically just like any other bolted/clamped connection, so the rotational torque numbers will be the same.
 
Holy cow! Has anyone priced these things recently? I just hit up Trail gear and they want $12 for EACH stud!!! I want stronger than stock but geez! Everyone else looks like they're selling OEM ones judging by price. I want stronger than stock but $12 is a bit steep if you ask me!
 
shawn said:
My gut says the cone washers are going to be better. The problem with a tapered nut or a bolt with a tapered head is they'll have a lot of friction on the tapered part as you're tightening them down, so it's tough to know that you got it tight enough. Cone washer with a nut is basically just like any other bolted/clamped connection, so the rotational torque numbers will be the same.
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Also on a side note found this Click Here. might be cheaper because you can use oem stuff and upgrade at the same time but requires a little work.
 
Just get the ARP studs and torque them before every trip. You wont have that problem anymore.
 
I ordered a set from Trail Gear. Should be here this week. I'll have enough to do both sides and have 2 extra sets in case someone needs them on the trails.
 
Oh man saw this too late... frontier 4x4 sells trailgear cheaper than anyone. I bought 6 shooter knuckles to prevent this from happening. Every time I took my truck out I would break a stud or have one come very loose.

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