JD2 Bender 101

Jeep_parts

Jeep_parts

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2005
Location
Kernersville, North Carolina
I am looking into using a JD2 bender and would like to have more of an understanding of bending tube and using this machine before I start.

Please let me know of any tips, tricks, videos, or websites that would help me out before starting.

Thank you
 
^^^ that is a good resource. I e never done the drawing on the floor thing as I always thought it was a waste of time when some simple math can yield the same thing. But I can see where it would help some

I like to find the CLR of the die and calculate how much tube is used with each common degree you bend. Add in the die's seating distance before the bend (usually about 3/4" on the JD2 1.75" die), and you can figure the start and end of each bend so you can determine multiple bend start points, etc. like for roll cage hoops, etc.

JD2 has some decent factory instructions if you can find a copy of them
 
I am just getting into bending tube and decided to get some HREW and make "template bends" to measure how much tube length gets used for common bends. I have one for 30*, 45*, 60*, 90*, and 180*.

I agree the math is easy to figure out and a chart could be made but I wanted to get some experience with the bender too. Also 1.75 DOM .180 wall is a pretty good workout doing it manual without at air/hydro attachment!


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I am considering buying a bender / couple dies myself for upcoming projects. Basically tube doors, 6(ish) point cage, rocker guard/sliders and then maybe F&R bumpers too. When I look at the prices of say DIY4x for those items and then cost of 20' stick ($220?) I am actually not sure there is a lot of markup on this stuff which makes me re-consider.

Wondering if anyone has done the math in determining if buying a bender, doing your own stuff and then say selling the bender / dies at 80%, are we really saving anything? I don't want to bug/annoy our current vendors (YET) but thinking that if they are close to the same price as the big guys (DIY4x, ORDesign, etc.) I would rather support a local shop and let them do the math? :)

(Sam, on stage 2 of my plan to get K5...fixing and reselling the Subaru!)
 
rockcity said:
A 20' stick should not be $220. That's more than double what it should be.
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Also, big outfits buy in bulk and get their materials cheaper. For non-custom parts, they have jigs (or programs on robots) to turn out parts in a short amount of time with very little waste.

Don't forget to factor in your time, waste (learning oportunites), and the aggravation factor...
 
:popcorn: Don't mind me just adding to my list of things I need to consider...
 
youtube is your friend.

watch, practice, fuck some tube up, watch more, practice some more, etc.

for as "simple" as a bender is, there are plenty of tricks and different ways to wrap your head around the principles.
 
The best thing to always remember, bending peice 1/2 is easy. Building it's duplicate is the B****.
The Pipemaster comes in really damn handy.
 
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ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj521_XJsavage_Mobile_20Uploads_d57838aa493fff32d04b755649f81fbf.jpg

I built this entire chassis with a jd2 model 3 manual and 6.5 180 die. All 1.75 .120 DOM and hand notched with a OD scribe and angle grinder. 200'+ of FML. I ain't kidding. And it's one of the most addictive things you'll ever do.
 
Well as part of this discussion, can we talk local sources of tubing and prices? For roll cage, 1.75" appears to be really popular compared to 2" back in the day? (What thickness for wall?). If a 20' stick is closer to $100 then that certainly adds to the budget quite a bit and makes screwing up hurt a lot less too!

If you were buying a single die, I would guess the 1.75" but how many degrees would we really need for home brew projects?

Final thoughts, such as , "hey you really suck at welding or have not much experiences and should never consider this because you could die if you rely on your own welds!?" (Speaking for myself and lack of real time behind a welder...but if you never weld you will certainly never learn how to weld....)


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1.75 x .120" wall tube is mostly the standard.

I'd buy the 180* die. It's not much more $ and gives you options when bending. You won't bend much past 120* but when you do it's a real pain if you have to get someone else to do it. The $ you'd save would easily be spent in time and frustration the first bend past 120* you have to source out.

CLR of the die depends on what minimum wall thickness you plan to bend. Smaller CLR can't bend thinner wall without added deformation. I have a 6.5" CLR and I think it will bend down to .083" wall without any noticeable added deformation.
 
Start here



Look for. "The Fabricator" series on YouTube a lot of stuff you never thought you wanted to know
 
I've had a bender for years. I have tried a couple times to bend some hoops for my jeep and rock slider kickoff's. Every piece turned out different. I guess the ole dyslexic mind I have just don't get it.... One day I hope to redo the ghost into more tube. I'm either hiring @XJsavage to help/teach me or sending it to a shop...... I have that bend tech some where..... it did not help.....
 
JD2 has a black and yellow degree indicator you could also buy. I use to work there in Johnson City TN and can tell you that the owners are great. Give them a call and they would probably make some time for you if you wanted to stop by and check things out.

There is also videos on youtube with the owner Bob showing off his benders.
 
ghost said:
I've had a bender for years. I have tried a couple times to bend some hoops for my jeep and rock slider kickoff's. Every piece turned out different. I guess the ole dyslexic mind I have just don't get it.... One day I hope to redo the ghost into more tube. I'm either hiring @XJsavage to help/teach me or sending it to a shop...... I have that bend tech some where..... it did not help.....
Click to expand...
AJ, @userbmx1315 loaned me a bend tech pro when I started on mine. I don't think I ever took it out the truck.
 
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