Jeep 4.0 Strokers Discussion

jeepinmatt

#1 WEBWHEELER
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Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Location
Stanley, NC
Who here has done a stroker on their 4.0? List what you did, and how you like it.
Displacement:
Block:
Head:
Crank:
Rods:
Pistons:
Cam:
Injectors:
Intake:
Exhaust:
Cooling:
Rotating Assembly balanced:
Fuel Octane:
1/8-1/4 mile times: 10.6@63, 17.0@76, 5100lbs, 35's
Other/Notes:

I'll start.
Displacement: 4.6L
Block: 2000 TJ 4.0
Head: 2000 TJ 4.0, resurfaced .010 to ensure squareness, otherwise stock
Crank: 87-91 4.2L
Rods: Pre-86 4.2L
Pistons: H802CP, undished, .030" over
Cam: 2000 TJ 4.0
Injectors: 2000 TJ 4.0
Intake: Stock TJ airbox with K&N filter element
Exhaust: Stock TJ
Cooling: Novak Radlock with Taurus fan, tried a "heavy duty" replacement first, but not enough cooling
Rotating Assembly balanced: Yes, and it runs smoother than stock
Fuel Octane: 89
Other/Notes: Had to space stud girdle approximately 3/32" to clear rods. Make sure the rods you recieve are what you ordered. The 4.2 rods I ordered ended up being from a 4.0, and had to be replaced, but this was discovered after the pistons were installed. 2 pistons were busted while removing from the incorrect rods, so I then had to order more and wait.

Overall, I am thrilled with the stroker. It is the only mod that I've done to the jeep that puts a smile on my face everytime I drive it. I've got around 50k miles on it with zero problems. Sorting out the cooling issues was frustrating, but in hindsight, I would put a Taurus fan on a cheap HD radiator and try it. I had a HD radiator with a cheap fan, and it didnt' cut the butter, so I did the Novak aluminum radiator and Taurus fan at the same time. I've been at Uwharrie in the upper 90's with the AC on, and the temp never exceeded 180.

I would highly recommend a stroker to anyone with a 4.0.
 
I did a version of a 4.5L simple/budget stroker. My 4.0L broke a piston @ 115k miles so it was either rebuild, replace, or stroke...

Here's the specs:
Displacement: 4.5L
Block: 2000 WJ 4.0L
Head: 2000 WJ 4.0L (0331 casting) P&P'd
Crank: 258 4wt crank, long snout
Rods: 258 rods
Pistons: Sealed Power H802CP (stock bore) dished to 18cc's
Cam: Stock
Injectors: Stock
Intake: 62mm TB, TB spacer, & cone filter
Exhaust: Magnaflow hi-flow cat, FM50 mufler, 2.5" pipe
Cooling: Stock
Rotating Assembly balanced: No
Fuel Octane: 93 (custom tune). Runs on 87 with stock tune
1/8-1/4 mile times: don't know/don't care
Other/Notes: Used Victor Reniz Performance head gasket (.040") & SCT Tuned


The only thing I wish I'd have done different would be to add a cam. Its very nice to drive now. I can actually pass people on the highway again!
 
I am getting ready to start building a 4.6L "Poor Man's" version with the following:

Displacement: 4.6L
Block: 1999 XJ 4.0 NVH
Head: 1999 XJ 0630, resurfaced to ensure squareness, 3 angle valve job w/new stem seals, DIY clean up on the portsCrank: 87-91 4.2L
Rods: Pre-86 4.2L
Pistons: Sealed Power 677CP +0.030" bore, 17.5 cc dish
Cam: Stock 1999 XJ Cam
Injectors: Ford 24lb Injectors
Intake: Stock 1999 Intake, 62mm Throttle Body, Cold Air Intake
Exhaust: Header undecided? 2.5" Piping, Carsound Magnaflow Cat, FM 40 series muffler
Cooling: CSF 3 Row Radiator, FlowKooler Water Pump, Hesco Thermostat Housing, 195* Tstat
 
I got most of my stuff through Falcon Global Parts and Supplies (800-756-1114). They're prices were unbeatable. The 6 pistons were $99.30! My connecting rods came from Performance Automotive Warehouse. I've herd from a couple of people that had long delays in shipping using PAW, but my stuff came in a reasonable amount of time.
 
Glad this got posted. Picked up a replacement 4.0 for my 98 XJ today, so I'm gonna take the old motor and probably build a stroker with it for my 95. Time to start doing research and looking for parts.
 
Who here has done a stroker on their 4.0? List what you did, and how you like it.
Displacement:
Block:
Head:
Crank:
Rods:
Pistons:
Cam:
Injectors:
Intake:
Exhaust:
Cooling:
Rotating Assembly balanced:
Fuel Octane:
1/8-1/4 mile times: 10.6@63, 17.0@76, 5100lbs, 35's
Other/Notes:
I'll start.
Displacement: 4.6L
Block: 2000 TJ 4.0
Head: 2000 TJ 4.0, resurfaced .010 to ensure squareness, otherwise stock
Crank: 87-91 4.2L
Rods: Pre-86 4.2L
Pistons: H802CP, undished, .030" over
Cam: 2000 TJ 4.0
Injectors: 2000 TJ 4.0
Intake: Stock TJ airbox with K&N filter element
Exhaust: Stock TJ
Cooling: Novak Radlock with Taurus fan, tried a "heavy duty" replacement first, but not enough cooling
Rotating Assembly balanced: Yes, and it runs smoother than stock
Fuel Octane: 89
Other/Notes: Had to space stud girdle approximately 3/32" to clear rods. Make sure the rods you recieve are what you ordered. The 4.2 rods I ordered ended up being from a 4.0, and had to be replaced, but this was discovered after the pistons were installed. 2 pistons were busted while removing from the incorrect rods, so I then had to order more and wait.
Overall, I am thrilled with the stroker. It is the only mod that I've done to the jeep that puts a smile on my face everytime I drive it. I've got around 50k miles on it with zero problems. Sorting out the cooling issues was frustrating, but in hindsight, I would put a Taurus fan on a cheap HD radiator and try it. I had a HD radiator with a cheap fan, and it didnt' cut the butter, so I did the Novak aluminum radiator and Taurus fan at the same time. I've been at Uwharrie in the upper 90's with the AC on, and the temp never exceeded 180.
I would highly recommend a stroker to anyone with a 4.0.

What head gasket are you running? What temp Tstat?
 
Here's my specs

4.7l
94 block
89 4.2 crank and rods
.040 4.0 pistons
7120 head ported and I also polished the chambers
crane 753905 cam(204/216 dur@ .050, .496 lift)
stock pushrods and rocker arms
.060 shim under new stock springs
.035 mopar head gasket
9.87:1 compression ratio

zj orange top injectors flowed and tuned
I run the fpr capped for max pressure
dino's map sensor mod
pacesetter header 91-95 intake
airraid tb spacer
Stock radiator with Taurus fan
160 tstat in summer 180 in winter , not for cooling. It has less flat spots running the motor a little cooler

runs on 89 or 93, but will ping on 89 when hot

only ran it once in the 1/8 mile . Ran a 9.89 with 36" iroks and 4.56 gears 75 deg air temp 45% humidity. Also had a 1.43 60 foot time with the 5 speed haha

it runs good, I've been happy I've got 40 k on it since I built it in 05. It's still running great with no issues. I always have wanted to play with the map voltage more as well as grind the tab off the distributor to adjust the timing and play with fuel pressure. But I still have not gotten around to it.

That motor never gets babied and still doesn't care even now with the tons and 42s

Hope I didn't forget any details
 
Mac5005 if you had a 1.43 60 ft. you should ran a lot faster than a 9.89 in the 1/8 unless you deep staged with the rear tires.
 
Mac5005 if you had a 1.43 60 ft. you should ran a lot faster than a 9.89 in the 1/8 unless you deep staged with the rear tires.


Should have... If you are comparing that 60 ft time with a car with good power with either an auto or close ratio manual trans. My 60ft time smokes my buddies turbo m3 but he has a way lower et. It didn't spin the tires on launch and 1 st gear carries me through the 60 ft. It's all bc of traction gearing and rt you can't compare my numbers to something with half the contact patch and twice the power
 
What head gasket are you running? What temp Tstat?
I honestly don't remember what head gasket. It was whatever came with the rebuild kit. I can probably find the reciept, but it was nothing special.

The Tstat is either a 180 or 195 degree from the parts store. Again, nothing special.
 
Displacement: 4.6L
Block: Stock 93 zj, bored .040, and decked, but i don't remember how much
Head:Stock 93 zj, decked, crower valve train, port matched to intake
Crank:stock 89 wrangler 4.2, mains turned .010, rods .000
Rods: stock 89 wrangler
Pistons: .040+ from summit, don't remember brand- there was only 1 available
Cam: Crower Baja Beast
Injectors: Ford SVO 24LB
Intake: 2000 WJ- port matched
Exhaust: stock replacement manifold, 2.75" pipe to cat, high flow cat, moroso spiral muffler
Cooling: stock zj stuff with 180* tstat and new water pump
Rotating Assembly balanced:yes
Fuel Octane:89 unless towing or running hard in the mountains, then 93
1/8-1/4 mile times:??????? outran a stock late 80's 5.0 mustang, but driver skill involved
Other/Notes: Don't waste money with a adjustable fuel pressure regulator, just to set it at max pressure. I got a FPR from a turbo eagle talon, holds 45 psi at idle, and 55 if vacuum disconnected. <---- for 91-95 HO OBDI engines
I still need to get a larger throttle body. !!! I can feel it at the upper rpms
Fuel mileage dropped from 19-20 highway down to 15-16. But due in large part to more liberal use of skinny pedal and driving 10-15 mph faster on the highway.
awesome mod for a worn out 4.0, i replaced alot of externals along the way, and bought a LUK Pro Gold clutch and the whole project cost about $2600
 
Displacement: 4.6
Block: 93 original
Head: Stock with valve springs to match cam
Crank:4.2 turned .010 mains .020 rods. Low # jurnals correct snout for pully
Rods: Stock 4.2
Pistons: .030 over stock type
Cam:Mopar stage 1
Injectors: ford 24lb
Intake:Soon to be late model
Exhaust: stock, flomaster 40 series muff
Cooling:Stock with electric fan
Rotating Assembly balanced: no
Fuel: 87

Love the off road power. Used the scan tool to retard timming 2 deg. to control pinging. Should have decked the block.
I did all the work except for the machine work on the block and valve grinding.
I think I have 1,100 in parts and machine work to include new water pump, belts, hoses, plugs, plug wires, clutch and surface flywheel.
(Crank and rods were free!!! Nice to have good friends.)
 
Isnt there a 4.2 crank with like 12 counter weights? Im soon going to be getting the parts together to build a stroker for my tj. Anybody running the 505 hydraulic roller cam?
 
Isnt there a 4.2 crank with like 12 counter weights? Im soon going to be getting the parts together to build a stroker for my tj. Anybody running the 505 hydraulic roller cam?
The 1972-86 cranks (casting #25210) are heavier, which gives you more grunt from idle, but doesn't spin up as fast or have as much HP. The 87-90 cranks (casting #25300) are significantly lighter, and no machining is required on the snout, which is another nice touch. I think the 25300's are in the low 40lb range, while the 25210's are in the high 50's.
 
Picked up a 7120 head today for 20 bucks its at the shop getting cut for ls1 springs and valves. Going to use a 93 5.0 mustang MAF and the shop vac for a flow bench. Going to use the heavy crank, after market rods and pistons. So am i to understand no one tunes these engines after the stroke, just bigger injectors? Im planning on using an apexi safc.
 
Lots of people tune them, but there aren't as many that have as say an LS1 or something.
 
I just worried if I change the cam its gonna lean out under low to medium load.
 
The stock comp will work fine, the map and O'2s will work out the fuel trim. There are companies that will change the comp for your taste.
 
Any mods required to run the Ford 24 lbs injectors??
they should be a direct swap. As long as you have the earleir style wire connector, they will swap right in. the later(like 2000 and newer, not sure of exact year) style used a different wiring connector. But they all are the same height, and take the same o-rings.
 
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