Jeep Cherokee advice...

Gen0cide

Gen0cide

Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Location
Kinston, NC
Yes! Exactly what you wanted to see! A newbie post asking dumb questions!!! :)

So, I'm COMPLETELY new to the whole idea of off roading, or 4x4.. Loved it since I was a kid, never got a chance to get into it. A near future move to the western mountains of NC has brought about the legitimate need for a 4x4 vehicle that we don't have to make payments on for 5 years.. I'm using it as an excuse to get the jeep I always wanted. Here is my issue, being new to it all, I did a little research and with my needs (and some wants) of automatic, a daily driver (that can take a beating with 2 kids, hunting and hauling roller derby gear), but able to lift it some for a bit of playtime and ability to easily add to and customize as I go and learn... I'm trying to stay away from the computery end of things, I don't want to have to take it to some dealership or find a computer system to hook it to in order to fix a simple problem. (I've heard of some cars that won't even crank if a sensor is off or has to go to a special dealership to get it reset for hundreds of dollars..)

I'm drawn to the classic Cherokee from around 1990 - 94ish.. However, I have had recent suggestions of expanding that to include years up to 98.

Thought I would ask around here... What do you guys think about the year range that I am looking in? Any suggestions on what the best year would be?

Thanks for your patience and help!!
 
92-01 will guarantee it won't be a renix 4.0. Theres nothing wrong with renix, they're just more problematic. I'd say find the newest one you can find with lowest miles and go with it. 8.25 is the rear axle you'll want. 96 has been the best year of Cherokees I've ever owned. Last year of the old body style.
 
I have a 99 and it's probably the best Jeep I've ever owned. It has a few problems that cand be solved easily. Such as power windows and door locks not working, this is bc of bad wiring in the door harness and an easy fix. Also the heater blend door issue also easily fixed. Other than that it's a solid reliable driver. Do a small lift and some 32's, you'll have a nice DD that can go most places you'd want to with family. Also look for one with the 8.25 over a D35.

Google those issues and you'll see what I mean
 
"They" say 1999 was the best year for the XJ Cherokee. Last year before coilpack engines, always had the 29-spline 8.25 in the rear, newer styling (97-01) including interior with cupholders. I like our '99 Classic, can't complain, power windows in all but drivers side no longer work, headliner is finally sagging, speakers blown, fuel gauge can get sketchy.
I owned a '95 XJ, bought it used, and have to say the seat of the pants power was way more than the '99 ever had. Both 4.0L, 3.55 gears (like ~90% of all XJs made).

"They" also say to stay away from '96, it was the first year of OBDII, and has several electronic components that work only from that year.
 
RenegadeT said:
"They" also say to stay away from '96, it was the first year of OBDII, and has several electronic components that work only from that year.
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Seems legit. 97 Wrangler is the same way.
 
RenegadeT said:
"They" say 1999 was the best year for the XJ Cherokee. Last year before coilpack engines, always had the 29-spline 8.25 in the rear, newer styling (97-01) including interior with cupholders. I like our '99 Classic, can't complain, power windows in all but drivers side no longer work, headliner is finally sagging, speakers blown, fuel gauge can get sketchy.
I owned a '95 XJ, bought it used, and have to say the seat of the pants power was way more than the '99 ever had. Both 4.0L, 3.55 gears (like ~90% of all XJs made).

"They" also say to stay away from '96, it was the first year of OBDII, and has several electronic components that work only from that year.
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My thoughts too, plus the 99 had the better intake with the older without the coil pack head.
 
This is all awesome! What I'm hearing is..
I'm looking for
4.0, 3.55 gears
no coilpack engine
no renix
29-spline 8.25 in the rear
years 92 - 01, staying away from 96 due to electronics (which I want the least of anyway)
for comfort and daily driving ease lean towards the 99, but the older 95 has more power...

Sounds like a pretty good sum up. A couple of these things I am looking up, since I have no idea what they mean but I'm sure I can figure it out. :) I'm resourceful and determined to learn it all. I've been watching all of the BleepinJeep.com videos I can.. is there any other place that might help me out in my learning curve? Thanks again in advance for putting up with the "new kid."
 
Not sure what the fear of coil over plug ignition is. They are much better in water or mud because the system is sealed, and it cleans up the passenger side of the engine a bit since you don't have plug wires. My 2000 wrangler has been through a lot in its lifetime and still has the original coilpack.
 
Didn't they switch from HP front diff to LP front diff in 00 or 01?
 
Keep in mind, HP R&P is stronger when you're driving forward, LP R&P is stronger when you're backing up. If you're trying to climb something going forward, probably 60-70% of the weight and traction are over the rear wheels. If you're trying to back up a hill or obstacle about 60-70% of the weight and traction are on the front wheels, and the LP front diff is stronger than HP. Not that any of that matters, because you will probably break a shaft or u-joint first...
 
jeepinmatt said:
Keep in mind, HP R&P is stronger when you're driving forward, LP R&P is stronger when you're backing up. If you're trying to climb something going forward, probably 60-70% of the weight and traction are over the rear wheels. If you're trying to back up a hill or obstacle about 60-70% of the weight and traction are on the front wheels, and the LP front diff is stronger than HP. Not that any of that matters, because you will probably break a shaft or u-joint first...
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Idk about you but i dont think I've ever been like... "you know what I think I'm gonna back up this huge ledge..."
 
chrishundley138 said:
Idk about you but i dont think I've ever been like... "you know what I think I'm gonna back up this huge ledge..."
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True, but many times I've had the front slide down into a hole or crack and needed to use a lot of throttle to get back out of it.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Keep in mind, HP R&P is stronger when you're driving forward, LP R&P is stronger when you're backing up. If you're trying to climb something going forward, probably 60-70% of the weight and traction are over the rear wheels. If you're trying to back up a hill or obstacle about 60-70% of the weight and traction are on the front wheels, and the LP front diff is stronger than HP. Not that any of that matters, because you will probably break a shaft or u-joint first...
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After bending 2 driveshafts and having to get them retubed, screw a LP axle on 32s and 35s!
 
jeepinmatt said:
Not sure what the fear of coil over plug ignition is. They are much better in water or mud because the system is sealed, and it cleans up the passenger side of the engine a bit since you don't have plug wires. My 2000 wrangler has been through a lot in its lifetime and still has the original coilpack.
Click to expand...

I have no problem with a coil pack, it is just the shitty head that came on the coil pack motors in 00-01. I've had a lot of 00-01 XJs in here. Almost every single one has a cracked head.
 
91 - 94 are my favorite years. I'm partial to 94 though. 95 is nice for the air bag if you are going to street drive it. I also have a 98 and am not as happy with it as I thought I would be. The 8.25 did not get the bigger spline axles until 96 iirc. However the 8.25 xj axles are a dime a dozen. Just my .02
 
I tell everyone I know who get xjs, if you plan to wheel it, the first thing you should do is put uni body stiffeners on it!
 
shawn said:
You've got it backwards.
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Assuming we're still talking about front axles, you've got it backwards. Feel free to quote the rest of my post :p
jeepinmatt said:
If you're trying to back up a hill or obstacle about 60-70% of the weight and traction are on the front wheels, and the LP front diff is stronger than HP.
Click to expand...
 
jeepinmatt said:
Assuming we're still talking about front axles, you've got it backwards. Feel free to quote the rest of my post :p
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I got it now. The LP is on the coast side going forward (weak side), but the drive side when going backwards. :beer:
 
shawn said:
I got it now. The LP is on the coast side going forward (weak side), but the drive side when going backwards. :beer:
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I figgered you'd figger it out if you thought about it.
 
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