Jeep TJ - 4-Low won't engage - help

Grape Ape

Grape Ape

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Location
High Point, NC
Ok, so I finally got around to try out the 4 wheel drive in the TJ last night. Found out that 4-Low will not engage, and leaves me just sitting there. It seems to work in 4-Hi, but not 4-Low. I have tried placing the lever smoothly, and somewhat forcably into the 4-Low position, as far as it will go, but it will not engage, and the Jeep won't move. There is a whirring noise when I put it in gear (manual) and try to move. As if the gears are almost engaged, but not quite, and not allowing any drive. I have not had a chance to look underneath or check anything yet, but does anyone know what it might be?
Does the handle and/or shift rods need to be adjusted, if they can be?

I may have to get it off the ground to see if the 4WD is engaging at all.

Help!!!
 
Grape Ape said:
Ok, so I finally got around to try out the 4 wheel drive in the TJ last night. Found out that 4-Low will not engage, and leaves me just sitting there. It seems to work in 4-Hi, but not 4-Low. I have tried placing the lever smoothly, and somewhat forcably into the 4-Low position, as far as it will go, but it will not engage, and the Jeep won't move. There is a whirring noise when I put it in gear (manual) and try to move. As if the gears are almost engaged, but not quite, and not allowing any drive. I have not had a chance to look underneath or check anything yet, but does anyone know what it might be?
Does the handle and/or shift rods need to be adjusted, if they can be?

I may have to get it off the ground to see if the 4WD is engaging at all.

Help!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah, adjusting the linkage would be my first guess, especially if the Jeep has a body lift, motor mount lift, tummy tuck, etc... basically, anything that would have changed the relationship between the body and the transfer case.
 
^ what they said especially for easy free diagnostics. When I did my sye I didn't get my linkage back on well enough and I had a little issue until I got that back on there properly.
 
If it's internal and your shift fork is bad you should likely be able to tell from the fluid if you do a change. That's what I read anyway when I was freaking about mine before I realized my linkage was the culprit.
 
I've read the fluid would be grey if the shift fork is jacked bad. The linkage at the case is pretty robust but I it's not got a lot of extra play to get it into 4-lo. If you pop the linkage off you can always try it manually, just don't drive over your assistant, lol.
 
To pop my linkage off at the case I just used a large screwdriver or two. Then I used some large jaw grips to pop it back on. You just move the stubby metal piece on the case by hand from there to trouble shoot. I can take a pic of mine tomorrow but it's on the web.
 
Sometimes when the bottom of the frame is rusty along where the skid is we cut the rust out and then weld 1/2" nuts to some 1.5" flat stock then weld to the bottom of the frame. Hope this helps
 
I sheared a bolt in the rail replacing my skid. Very luckily I was able to tap it a size higher but prior to that research i did a lot of guys reported that they went through the side of the rail and or floor and cut an access hole then welded over afterwards. I don't own a welder so I was relived that mine although rusty didn't start free spinning like you encountered.
Grape Ape said:
Well, I decided to try to remove the factory belly skid plate for easier access and the tap held up. , but go figure, those bolts and nut-serts were rusted too!! Just sat there spinning.....aaarrgh. So, I was able to slightly adjust the shift linkage with the belly pan in place, and finally got the lever to shift into 4Lo. The linkage was rusted to the adjustment screw housing too!
It still pops out on occasion, but it will work for now.
Now, does anyone have a remedy to replace the factory skid plate nut-serts with a better solution. A new belly-up skid isn't feasible now.
Click to expand...
 
Back
Top