Kill Switch

frankenyoter

frankenyoter

No Rain, No Rainbow
Joined
Mar 17, 2009
Location
DARK CITY
I want to put a kill switch in my rig. I won't be racing anytime soon, just an added safety feature. I Plan on running the coil and fuel pump through it. I assume a pull out one...

Any input from those in the know would be appreciated. Also, where to purchase.

Thanks!
 
I just wired my fuel pump through a regular toggle with the red aircraft flip cover. I hooked up a starter switch the same way. Both are in arms reach since I can't reach the keyed ignition switch when I'm strapped in the 5 point since it was mounted low on the dash on the old fords. All I have to do is slap the cover down. The fuel pump dies and the motor follows in less than 5 seconds. At least that's howgm throttle body injection works.
 
I have a battery disconnect mounted right beside the drivers seat in my buggy that will kill complete electrical power to the entire rig. It's the marine style ones used on boats. That way there is no chance of an electrical fire or electrical spark. I feel it's safer than simply cutting power to the fuel pump...just my 0.02.
 
I thought about a toggle with a cover too.

Also have a marine dual battery switch. Don't you have to turn off the ignition for the engine to die? I was thinking it would be like pulling battery cable off the battery and the engine would continue to run off the alternater. An I not thinking about the wiring right? Please share because I would rather stop the engine and all electricity.
 
frankenyoter said:
I thought about a toggle with a cover too.

Also have a marine dual battery switch. Don't you have to turn off the ignition for the engine to die? I was thinking it would be like pulling battery cable off the battery and the engine would continue to run off the alternater. An I not thinking about the wiring right? Please share because I would rather stop the engine and all electricity.
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I cut my rig off with the master kill all the time.
 
On the marine switch there are three lugs: batt 1, common, and batt 2. The way I understand the switch is that everything on my battery goes to common and then wire battery to 1 (not set up for duals yet).

My wiring is stock for the most part. Does the keyed hot wire need to be routed somewhere else? Or does it kill the ignition wires like that? I just assumed it would run off the alt.
 
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It's not as preferred but you can go to a complete chassis ground system and then run the negative ground from the battery through the marine disconnect so the kill switch controls the negative side of the batteries will still kill the circuit and the vehicle...
 
off_road2 said:
It's not as preferred but you can go to a complete chassis ground system and then run the negative ground from the battery through the marine disconnect so the kill switch controls the negative side of the batteries will still kill the circuit and the vehicle...
Click to expand...

That's a MUCH better solution than having a double run of MEGA ga. wire run from the battery/power distribution. Which in itself can be a major cause of "issues" if those positive leads short! Just ask the folks that *used* to have factory ammeters... :eek:
 
snappy said:
I cut my rig off with the master kill all the time.
Click to expand...

I wired it up tonight as a test. Turning battery switch to off the rig keeps running since the alt. is working. What am I missing, does alt need to be rerouted?
 
If you have everything run thur the switch, then it will not make a difference. You still have the alt wired up to the "output" side of the kill switch.
 
frankenyoter said:
On the marine switch there are three lugs: batt 1, common, and batt 2. The way I understand the switch is that everything on my battery goes to common and then wire battery to 1 (not set up for duals yet).

My wiring is stock for the most part. Does the keyed hot wire need to be routed somewhere else? Or does it kill the ignition wires like that? I just assumed it would run off the alt.
Click to expand...
Ok I see the problem I miss read it the first time...... does your switch have a battery 1, 2, 1&2, and off position?
 
It is not a true discoonect, its designed for charging. You can wire the alt to battery one rather than the common post. the problem is that you cannot charge battery 2 by itself this way. It will feed back when you have it set in the 1&2 position. Wiring this way Should cut off the ign because you isolated it from the alternator, the Ideal way would be use this to charge the batteries and use a true master kill switch also.

A good example of what a dual switch setup would be used for in a rig would be..The dual switch would be for having dual batteries and one wired to the winch and the other for everything else. When winching, switch to battery 2(the winch battery), and if you kill the battery simply switch back to one and crank. After cranking switch back to one and 2 to charge them both. The switch are really more like a selectable dual battery isolator rather than a kill swith. You can make it do it but not ideal.

I am sorry I didnt think about it too much on my first post as I was thinking of a diconnect rather than a dual battery switch. I hope this clears it up a bit rather than muddy the waters more...
 
Thanks for the clarification. I am apparently not so slick on my battery terms. Where do you find one of the kill switches? I currently don't have dual batteries, but will probably still run the dual battery isolator due to an electrical gremlin who shows up periodically.

I may just run a toggle to cut the coil and fuel pump, but if I could shut the whole system down with a switch it would be better fo sho
 
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