Knock Knock.....

mommucked

mommucked

Endeavoring to persevere
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Location
Rural Apex n.c.
...5 minutes and 2 miles from the house I rolled up to a stoplight today in the 98 S-10LS 4.3 188k and the motor started bucking bad, dropped RPM @ idle. Limped it into a parking lot running rough and weak. Smells like a rotten egg and knocks loud when I give it throttle, oil pressure is fine, no smoke.......... who's there? Cammy? Timey? Chainny? Roddy?
 
Oddly enough, my old 85 S10 was doing something similar on my way home from work a little while ago. Anybody else's S10 acting up today? I feel like mine is either fuel or spark related.
 
Garbage gasoline. Run some 93 ocatane through it and see if that fixes it. Its all I run and amazingly that fixes a lot of problems.
 
I got it home an hour ago on a dolly. It seems that the shuddering TC has self destructed ?. It cranked slowly and knocked/bucked driving it onto and off the dolly when parking it, it violently raised hell about every 5 seconds, loud clank/knock/bang that shakes the whole truck when in drive/reverse. Put it in park/neutral and it still shakes a bit but does not knock/clank and revs somewhat smoothly/quietly.......the rotten egg smell was something else/landscaping trucks were parked there w some tanks in tow.
 
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Broken flexplate or loose converter bolts are possible as well. I hate a GM 4spd automatic with a stock converter and stock transmission shift tables....
 
I'm sure ? I tightened/torqued ALL the TC bolts when I installed it. I had a problem w shudder about a year ago and 2 tubes of Dr. Tranny shudder fix cured it immediately and until now.
 
WELL................after many searches and consulting I decided the either the ignition OR fuel injection/spider/ecm/pcm was bad.....started w the cheap stuff and removed the 3yo dist. cap and the pickups looked like shit, so did the rotor that also had scale on the tip and a burn on the plastic under the spark spitter. I bought the second cheapest set 3 or 4 years ago when I replaced the cap,rotor and splurged for the premium plugs and wires while thinking about selling the truck soon...... I replaced the shitty rotor and cap w Delphi today and it fixed it GOOD. Trans is still shuddering and the new oil needs changing w strong gas smell in it but it idles fine and quiet and ran down the road like a scalded dog tonight, I've never had this truck run out so fast, it's like a V-8s under the hood !!! :driver::burnout:
 
My dad said the same thing when he finally asked me to put plugs in his 93 S10 at 115k miles. They were only burnt out to about a .090 gap :shaking: and the plug wires were brittle and cracked.

Glad it's back running good!
 
AAAAAAAAAAAAND now the fuel pump has failed o_O I guess I should not complain, it is the original 98 unit. Have the bed jacked up and am in the process of cleaning 16 yrs of crud off the top of the FP before R&R. $271 unit, replacing filter also, replacing the relay (freebee from big Mike @ AA parts) did nothing. I asked if he had any advice/tips on replacing this unit and he said.............pick up a 12 pack on the way home :rolleyes: anybody else got some advice for making the fuel pump replacement go smoothly ?
 
I loosened the rear bolts and jacked up the front enough to remove the FP but it would be easier if I just remove it. Thanks, I think I'll go ahead and just take it off. gonna use a toothbrush and shop vac to clean it off and it looks like a big C clip holds the FP in the tank.
 
Well.................I cleaned it off and pulled the Airtex FP out of the box. It came w one of 2 electric connectors different from my factory male ends and 4 neato heat shrink connectors for me to splice in the new connector :kaioken: I called big Mike back up and told him I wasn't going to splice my factory plug in and heat shrink 4 connectors anywhere near my gas tank and want a unit w the correct connectors....................He talked to the boss and is gonna have me a correct Delphi unit @ 8:30am Tues. and exchange the Airtex unit for no cost !! saving me about $100 now it's :beer: time
 
DO NOT use an advance auto FP, if you are going to go ahead and just cut an access hole in the bed. You will get to do it again in a couple months. For that part I wouldbe dealership only...just my experience...
 
would Delphi be OK or better than Airtex??..............OH and I found out the plug must be changed as nobody makes the pumps w that connector anymore, somehting about an update or design flaw???
 
We use Delphi pumps at work from Napa. Only had one bad in a few years now. Even the delco factory pumps have to have the wiring changed. The old style plug would melt from the resistance.

I don't care for airtex.
 
Thanks a bunch guys, I'm getting the Delphi pump and just took the bed off, that will make the job much more easy/comfortable. I assume the squeeze/snap fuel line connectors will give me grief and wonder if I need to lube them and the FP gasket before installing? if so what type of lubrication?
 
WD 40 or equivalent on pump o ring. I just slide lines on dry. Never have a problem. I usually use an air blow gun to blow trash off top of tank and out of fuel disconnects before removal.
 
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