Knuckle machining

fordwheelinman

fordwheelinman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2009
Location
Randolph County
I have a family friend that has a machine shop who is going to machine a set of flat top knuckles. I have looked high and low and can not find any information on what angle they need to be cut to in relation to spindle mounting surface. I had it at one time but have forgotten it and now can not find where I had originally found it. I think it was 20 degrees, is this correct?
 
I got no idea
 
I e never delt with flat top knuckles im assuming for a set on a dana 60
 
Call reid racing
 
That's just to give the ball joint some extra travel in the proper direction, so something like 10 degrees would be about right. 20 would be pretty excessive I think.

Aren't the flat tops already at the proper angle, and you're just flycutting them to clean them up for a truer surface? Or are you changing the angle?
 
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I made a Jig for clamping knuckles in T slots on the mill. It's just a piece of 1.75" tube slightly shorter than the bore of the lower ball joint hole and a .25 thick washer welded on top. Drop it in the hole and it clamps the knuckle down flat on its bottom face leaving the flat top parallel to the ground. Then the steering arm I clamp in the vice so it cant move while cutting. It may not be the best way to do it but I've done at least a hundred that way and never had a complaint. The angle you need to be more concerned with is the rotation of the hi-steer arm around the upper ball joint. It will effect the ackerman angle if you plan to run true hi-steer with the tie rod mounted to the new arms. In most cases the arm will be so high that you also have to worry about TRE to tire or wheel clearance.
 
I realize that all I need is it cleaned up, but I need to make a fixture to hold the knuckle so it can be machined perfectly flat and to drill the holes. I'm just looking for the angle to build a holding fixture to so I don't ruin the ball joint mounting surface.
MarsFab said:
I made a Jig for clamping knuckles in T slots on the mill. It's just a piece of 1.75" tube slightly shorter than the bore of the lower ball joint hole and a .25 thick washer welded on top. Drop it in the hole and it clamps the knuckle down flat on its bottom face leaving the flat top parallel to the ground. Then the steering arm I clamp in the vice so it cant move while cutting. It may not be the best way to do it but I've done at least a hundred that way and never had a complaint. The angle you need to be more concerned with is the rotation of the hi-steer arm around the upper ball joint. It will effect the ackerman angle if you plan to run true hi-steer with the tie rod mounted to the new arms. In most cases the arm will be so high that you also have to worry about TRE to tire or wheel clearance.
Click to expand...
The jig making is the whole reason I'm asking, and that sounds pretty simple to do. I'll have to give that a try thank you
 
Yep very simple. Just stand it up and clamp it down right so it's on the bottom surface and you're good to go.
 
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